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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2014 23:44:28 GMT -5
also, lower your idle adjustment screw all the way until the idle goes to the stop. and then make sure from there, that you have play in yoru cable. if your using hte idle stop screw, to raise the rpms then check your throttle play there, then youll have the throttle raised higher. like, 0 is say the throttle cable was disconnected. the idle adjustemnet screw, was turned to lower the rpms. until it bottomed, out. if you know what i mean. the whatever, the throttle cable, nub, is attached to. hits whatever stops it from going down anymore. if its tabs, or the throttle stop in the middle of the carburetor, or a flap. make sure it hits the bottom. use the idle adjust screw to bottom it out. if its attached to a tab, or somethign thats not the actual thign getting in the way of the airflow, make sure that theres nothing, bent. or anything. like the tabs. someone has pulled out on it. or something. or pulled in. pushed. thats what to worry about. if it looks bent, i guess get a picture. then when you reattach the throttle, cable, at this part. make sure its attached right, at the handle, that there should be a lining up nub, on the 2 pieces of metal that line the throttle assembly on teh handlebar. its lined up. the throttle handle, is going on right, yoru throttle cable is attached right. then run it to the carb. and attach it. from there. when you attach it to the carburetor wherever you attach it to. you should have a 1/8 of an inch of slack or a 1/16th inch of slack, in your throttle handle. when you pull it back. it should pull up slack, before it starts pulling the spring that is attached to your tab or slide, or butterfly, that pulls out of the way of the airflow, of the carb, or.. in the case of the tab, whatever its attached to, pulls out of the way of the carb's airflow. youve seen a butterfly in a carb before right? like, a choke, or a gas thing, like in a car. the flap. that when its no gas its closed and no air flow. then. you adjust your idle, and your mixture. from there. if you have the carburetor adjusted with the idle high, with the screw turned like in. and the bikes not set for idle. your trying to adjust idle with the throttle pulled up, by the idle adjust screw, at say, 1/16 throttle. 1/8 or something., Wow ,, your kidding right ? 24 hrs before it's cold ! And man talk about confusing . I think your actually trying to help but it sounds like your trying to repeat what you've been hearing on here . And I repeat " trying " . |
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Post by rexxk on Jun 5, 2014 23:49:09 GMT -5
repeat.
well, i heard to make sure the blocks cold. and 14 hours of freeze time for a crankshaft for me slides bearings hot over the motor. but. 12 hours doesnt do it. theyre too tight. depends on tolerances. why the go through all the trouble if your not gonig to get the measurements right.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2014 23:57:51 GMT -5
Trust us who have been doing this for awhile now , let your scoot cool for an hr and I promise the valves will be cool enough to adjust . They don't tighten up all that much when they are hot . Even if the head is still 100 degrees it's not gonna throw the measurements off . These small engines cool pretty quick . We're talkin about one cylinder and a quart of oil .
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 6, 2014 0:18:56 GMT -5
If you had to wait that long to do valve adjustments, you would have to leave your car/bike at the garage overnight. I've had valve adjustments done by certified professionals many times, and they finished the job in a few hours.
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Post by bille on Jun 6, 2014 10:59:21 GMT -5
I left it sit overnight before adjusting since I think the last time I adjusted it was shortly after running it.
The top seemed a tad too tight. Bottom seemed like was .006. I adjust both and working on putting it back together. Just broke another bolt off putting the valve cover back on so I have to deal with that now too.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 6, 2014 11:42:40 GMT -5
You don't need to torque the bolts down on the valve cover. Nice and snug is all that's needed.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 13:45:46 GMT -5
get them bolts while their new. spray some lube on them and before workign, clean them with dish soap and dry. to keep rust from coming. thatll make them stick, make it harder to get them out.
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 6, 2014 14:46:09 GMT -5
get them bolts while their new. spray some lube on them and before workign, clean them with dish soap and dry. to keep rust from coming. thatll make them stick, make it harder to get them out. Bille is talking about the Valve cover bolts YOU DO NOT want them to stick they should come out easy and NOT be tighten so much just snug the valve cover has a rubber O-RING gasket going all around the valve cover to seal you do not want to squish the heck out of it and flatten out the O-Ring gasket permanently. Alleyoop |
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 15:46:39 GMT -5
i said just spray it so they dont get rust onthem
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 15:49:28 GMT -5
...
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 15:51:13 GMT -5
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 15:53:21 GMT -5
Bille is talking about the Valve cover bolts YOU DO NOT want them to stick they should come out easy and NOT be tighten so much just snug the valve cover has a rubber O-RING gasket going all around the valve cover to seal you do not want to squish the heck out of it and flatten out the O-Ring gasket permanently. Alleyoop rust makes them stick. sitting makes them stick. which is exactly what there doing right now. broke and sitting. spray something like LUBE on them to stop them from rusting and STICKING. then later wipe it off to remove them with DISHSOAP and water and then dry it off. before you go to work. OH then follow alleyoops directions on how to not break it after. and i guess go back to tuning and adjusting the idle again. |
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Post by bille on Jun 6, 2014 18:20:55 GMT -5
I got the broken bolt out and replaced it. It's still bogging down on throttle.
I have been making the valve cover pretty tight in the past, so to see if air is leaking in there I sprayed carb cleaner all around it but the RPMs didn't go up.
Not sure what to look for now.
I suspect the auto enricher isn't working anymore. Maybe. It started at like 1800 rpm and dropped to 1650 or so, I thought the gap was larger, but maybe not.
BTW - this scooter is brand new. 170 miles on it.
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 6, 2014 19:21:39 GMT -5
When you start it cold and it IDLES HIGH like you say 1800 and then in about 3-4 minutes or so it drops to a lower IDLE then your ENRICHER IS WORKING.
Do not worry about the valve cover leaking if it leaks it will leak out OIL and you will see it on the floor. But that has nothing to do with the bogging even if you take the cover completely off it has nothing to do with the INTAKE SIDE of the system.
SO DO NOT TIGHTEN those valve cover bolts just nice and SNUG. The valve cover is made to come off easy.
I just cannot understand the bogging it is bogging due to, to much AIR. So you must have overlooked something that is allowing to much air in.
TAKE PICTURES NOT VIDEOS of any canister and hoses going and coming from any place. Also look on the AIR FILTER TUBING it may be cracked someplace. Also around the VALVE COVER especially the bottom PAIR system and its canister and hoses going and coming to and from.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 6, 2014 19:23:14 GMT -5
i said just spray it so they dont get rust onthem Sorry Rexxk miss understood your replay thought you meant to do that so they would stick. I see you meant so they would not stick  Alleyoop |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..