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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 23, 2014 21:28:27 GMT -5
NP bro,,that video will rule out pretty much all the electronics except the RR,,but that's easy to test and not your problem I'm sure of that much..lol
Alley mentioned the spark plug cap not on well,,I was thinking something to do with the spark plug,coil or wire also,,Ive had small engines act like they had a fuel problem and would not take gas or run right,,but all along it was a spark issue,,as soon as the motor went under a small load it would quit from high resistance somewhere in the ignition system..weak connection or broken wire..
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 23, 2014 21:49:03 GMT -5
If it's fuel starvation can he try a slightly bigger pilot ? I think that's my problem . Mine also pops slightly on decel . Can u take it for a ride and see how it acts ?
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Post by rexxk on Jun 23, 2014 23:03:40 GMT -5
im thinking you got your tach set for 2-stroke. more like, 1100 rpms. and it killing out at that rpm isnt such a big deal. when you start it, set it up to a high idle rpm with the idle adjust screw. just a little. forget WHat the tach says. it's a gauge. and rev it a little. adjust your mixture screw, a little. but since your just going with 2.5 turns out. its not really set mixture screw, jetted, yet. if you rev it back it starts to cut out, turn your screw a little bit, in or out. maybe a half a turn. once its warmed up. then, do the up the idle to high rpms idle. adjust mixture for highest idle speed. use your tach to watch it. then lower idle back down. to regular type of idle. now if the idles got your mixture screw, set at, under 1 1/2 or over 3 turns. out. then rejet the pilot jet. but your all stock right? youve messed with some hoses. make sure your airbox is connected to your carburetor, good. make sure the lid on the airbox is on good. you seem to now, have 1 vacuum line. it runs, from the manifold. the manifold, has 1 barb on it. now. that goes up to the petcock, and it splits, and.. goes to? where? the carburetor? why dont you use all your hose clamps from your evap system instead of them zip ties everywhere? instead. heh. watch your intake for leaks. see if it does anything again. in the same spot. you got a new one right?
when its set and the idles set up. its warmed up, and mixture screw is adjusted, and idles lowered back with the idle rpms screw. set it back to normal rpms. rev back. if its cutting out. adjust your mixture screw. thats an air screw carb? right? so, then, turn the screw in. maybe a half turn. quarter turn or something. retry. revving back. keep doing it. turn the screw all the way in if yo8u have to. if, you end up lower than 1 1/4 or 3 1/4 turns, here, rejet. itll run better. ive found out with mine. it can run pretty leaner, or richer at cold idle. make sure while your mixture screw adjusting, that you while first setting it, up idle rpms with idle rpm screw, a little. for a high idle. if, while adjusint the mixture screw, you find the rpms raise, a whole bunch, lower the idle rpm, back down with the idle rpm screw. dont let it get racing, cuase it can hit on another circuit, then throw off your pilot, idle adjusting. highest idleing rpms, lower your idle back to normal, by listenning. rev back, adjust mixture screw alittle. make sure to keep up with where the highest idle was at. screw turns at. when you adjusted, so yu can set it back there to start over. again later with.
then just try, turning screw in, turning screw out for best revving back. rev back while your sitting on it,.... alright thatsall the things i gotta say. youll find it runs differnt on the stand and while your sitting on it, riding down the road. if its not cutting out on the stand it might start itup down the road as you ride. its easier for it to rev back while on the stand, then when your sitting on it, riding.
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 24, 2014 0:22:17 GMT -5
He has done the Valves correctly so that eliminates that. It could be that when he drained the gas tank crap was on the bottom and is clogging the petcock and or fuel filter. I would RE-CHECK fuel flow BY taking the FUEL HOSE off the carb and seeing if cranking it fuel still STREAMS out and not DRIBBLES out.
I say FIRST it is IDLING TO LOW now that his valves are adjusted and needs to idle it up a little and that in the VIDEO is no where near 2000 rpms. Last time he had it running fairly well the wheel started to turn at around 2300 rpms and you saw the tach register over 2300 rpms and the wheel was not turning. That motor is struggling to keep on firing with the low rpms.
AND he does not need an bigger pilot jet that is a 24mm carb and they come with a #35 which is more than enough.
Alleyoop
GEH3333,
It is a little LEAN on de-cel either the idle is a little low covering to many of the fuel outlets by the butterfly and or you can richen the fuel mixture up a 1/4-1/2 turn.
Alleyoop
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 24, 2014 1:30:53 GMT -5
His idle was jumping between 2100 and 2400 rpms at idle and seemed to begin to die around 2000 rpms . Problem I have is what could be wrong with the tach if it's off ? His idle sounds a lot like mine . Mine will idle near 2800 rpms for about 30 sec then start to drop slowly till it warms up near 2000 rpms . Mine will also die quick as it passes under 2000 rpms closer to 1800. No disrespect but it sounds like it's idling right with the tach to me. It's just still to high .
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 24, 2014 1:44:12 GMT -5
Let's say for some reason his tach is a few hundred rpms off . This means he should be good to go . Just set the air fuelike alley said and drop the throttle as low as u can without it stalling and see how she runs .
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 24, 2014 1:44:20 GMT -5
No desrespect taken but if yours idles at 2000 rpms after it is warm and it idles up to 2800 I have to say your isn't right either. 250s idle 1800-2000 not a 150cc or 50cc.
Bille,
Do this,
Start it up and forget about looking at the tach, start it up and turn the IDLE SPEED screw slowly little by little until the REAR WHEEL WANTS TO TURN. Then try the fuel mixture screw turn it one way and see if the IDLE rises if not go the other way and adjust it to get the highest idle. At this point your rear wheel may start to spin due to the higher idle So lower the idle so the wheel JUST WANTS to turn or stop AND leave it there and see if it stays running and if it does then try giving it throttle.
Alleyoop
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 24, 2014 2:00:19 GMT -5
No desrespect taken but if yours idles at 2000 rpms after it is warm and it idles up to 2800 I have to say your isn't right either. 250s idle 1800-2000 not a 150cc or 50cc. Bille, Do this, Start it up and forget about looking at the tach, start it up and turn the IDLE SPEED screw slowly little by little until the REAR WHEEL WANTS TO TURN. Then try the fuel mixture screw turn it one way and see if the IDLE rises if not go the other way and adjust it to get the highest idle. At this point your rear wheel may start to spin due to the higher idle So lower the idle so the wheel JUST WANTS to turn or stop AND leave it there and see if it stays running and if it does then try giving it throttle. Alleyoop Yep it idles near 2800 with the auto choke engaged and it idles at 2000 after it closes. The reason I think I need a bigger pilot is because It is very hard to get the air fuel just right and even when I do it will begin to pop again as the temp changes . I think its right on the edge of being to small . I think no matter how I adjust the airfuel my fuel flow at idle is just to low. And with this big a-s carb and uni I have a ton of air flow . One of these days I'll put my keihn 24 mm carb in and see how she runs . |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 24, 2014 2:04:31 GMT -5
Tba , I like how it runs it just idles a few hundred rpms to high " and a little popping" thanks for the advice alley .
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 24, 2014 12:45:31 GMT -5
Ah, just noticed in your sig and what you mentioned this b-a-carb you have a 32pumper no acv valve to help during de-cel not to run lean.
Now I understand the high rpms yours runs at, those carbs will not idle low to much flow coming through and no way to tpne that down just like the 250s+ they will not idle low.
Alleyoop
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Post by bille on Jun 24, 2014 12:49:35 GMT -5
I pushed that spark plug boot on better and turned up the idle screw a little bit. I got it running for a few minutes and I left it to warm up but it stalled a few minutes later. The first vid is of that, the second vid is me trying to restart it
I also verified the rpm tach in the vid
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Post by rexxk on Jun 24, 2014 13:24:00 GMT -5
turn your mixture screw. make sure your idle isnt , just so slow its about ready to quit. dont have it racing. really high idle rpm. cause you might get on the next circuit then you wont be able to tune it right. and then after some time, adjust it some more. just up the idle a little.
oh i think yo8ur tach might be set wrong. heres the instructions.
Setup Mode:
Press button to enter setup mode. >>
1: PPR Adjust (number of tach pulses per crankshaft revolution.)
After the first button press, the PPR setting display appears. Press the button to scroll through (default 1.0, 2.0, or 0.5.)
Release button and wait 4 seconds to continue. >>
2: Sensitivity Adjust (the sensitivity of sensor to tach pules.)
Press button to select setting (default Hi, or Lo.)
Release button and wait 4 seconds to continue. >>
3: Speed/filter option (smoothness of display update.)
Select (default Slow 1sec updates, or Fast 1/2sec updates.)
Release button and wait 4 seconds to finish setup mode.
i found them. section 1, i thnk, if you got it on, 1, then i think it needs to be on .5. just try it.
and the mixture screw your talking about. what your talking about. is when you turn the screw out, your leaning the idle mixture up. if you turn it in, like tightening it, your richenning the mixture up. just keep retuning that. after its warmed up do it again, but do it at a fast like type of idle rpm. not racing. then when you get on it and ride it, you dont have to listen for highest idle, just best throttle response. like ive seen in a bunch of videos. maybe turn it, in or out, like 1/8 a turn at a time, and recheck throttle response, while your sittting on it.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 24, 2014 13:28:23 GMT -5
He has done the Valves correctly so that eliminates that. It could be that when he drained the gas tank crap was on the bottom and is clogging the petcock and or fuel filter. I would RE-CHECK fuel flow BY taking the FUEL HOSE off the carb and seeing if cranking it fuel still STREAMS out and not DRIBBLES out. I say FIRST it is IDLING TO LOW now that his valves are adjusted and needs to idle it up a little and that in the VIDEO is no where near 2000 rpms. Last time he had it running fairly well the wheel started to turn at around 2300 rpms and you saw the tach register over 2300 rpms and the wheel was not turning. That motor is struggling to keep on firing with the low rpms. AND he does not need an bigger pilot jet that is a 24mm carb and they come with a #35 which is more than enough. Alleyoop GEH3333, It is a little LEAN on de-cel either the idle is a little low covering to many of the fuel outlets by the butterfly and or you can richen the fuel mixture up a 1/4-1/2 turn. Alleyoop i was just rechecking. make sure youve done it right. you can sit there and mess around with something all day, and if youve missed one thing. youd be wasting your time. doing that.. i think the tach is setup wrong. it should be a half a Pulse per revolution. PPR in the setup. I went and looked up the instructions online. a 2-stroke would be 1 Pulse per revolution, or one fire per crankshaft revolution. IM at least leaning towards the, he's lean on the idle mixture. pilot or maybe hte screw. i think the screw. turn it in, if it goes below 1 1/4, or 1 1/2 turns less than in, then the pilot jet would be too small then. youll notice as you turn in the mixture screw, if your idles up a little bit, that your idle will start to jump up, if the screw needs to be turned in to richen it, as you richen it. if its lean. or if its rich. if it srich, as you turn the screw in, youd be richenning it, and then you'd notice, the rpms lower. |
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 24, 2014 13:55:23 GMT -5
REXXK Sorry but your wrong,
You maybe are saying that because you have a AIR MIXTURE screw on your CARB on the RIGHT SIDE near the AIR INTAKE SIDE which tells me yours is a 2 STROKE MOTOR. Turning the screw in what it is doing on yours is CUTTING OFF THE AIR, on those you have nothing to adjust for the fuel except change the jets.
This is a 4 STROKE they have a FUEL MIXTURE on the INTAKE MANIFOLD SIDE . Turning the fuel mixture in Clockwise LEANS it out what is happening is your moving the needle point into the passage to cut off the amount of fuel flow. Turning it OUT counter clockwise your backing out the needle out of the fuel passage allowing more fuel to pass.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 24, 2014 13:58:29 GMT -5
Bille,
I do not like the missing, Check the wires going to the COIL make sure they are not loose or touching also check the wires on the CDI make sure they are in good. Also take the BOOT CAP off the PLUG and check the BOOT CAP they screw onto the COIL WIRE so try turning it just like you would a screw make sure it is screwed tight onto the COIL WIRE.
Alleyoop
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
