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Post by 4105tpm1 on Dec 16, 2013 5:44:44 GMT -5
I'm going to head into my CVT area on my Jonway y250t I'm almost at 9k miles on her since I got her in May. All of my riding is here in Central Florida so no hills just flat open roads.
I just received my gats belt for her, I'm ordering a new clutch pad right now, but for next weeks check I want to order the sliders, my question is what is the weight that came with the scooter or what weight do you all recommend.
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Post by jbjtkbw00 on Dec 16, 2013 7:20:55 GMT -5
This is a subject I want to know more about. Does it make a difference with the weights when you want better acceleration vs. higher top end? And how often do they need to be replaced? I was looking to get some for the better acceleration. I, too, and in Central Florida, so no hills involved really.
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 16, 2013 10:59:50 GMT -5
my question is what is the weight that came with the scooter... According to this PDF the factory part number for your roller weights is YYSLL2501008. I have been unable to find a weight specification. Easiest solution I can think of is to ask a scooter shop you trust, or cough up $10 and weigh them yourself. That depends on your riding style.Do you constantly go for quick, snappy take-offs from a stop, or are you a more casual rider interested in taking it easy on your engine? This is a subject I want to know more about. Does it make a difference with the weights when you want better acceleration... Yes. Lighter weights require higher RPM to achieve full extension in their ramps (read: 'top gear'). A stronger contra spring will also achieve this effect, though through different means. No. Weights have zero effect on the final drive diameter of the variator pulley (unless you go TOO light , preventing them from moving to the ends of their ramps/fully closing the pulley). Fully extended is fully extended, and the overall diameter of the variator pulley when fully closed will be the determining factor in your top speed. if you want to add a few MPH in the top end you'll need to step up to a larger diameter variator (think: 'overdrive gear') and/or replace the final drive gear-set. Again, that depends on riding style; lots of stop and go (constantly moving the rollers up and down the ramps), vs. more steady cruising (rollers spend more time in one position). It's the motion of the rollers moving in the ramps that wears the flat spots. Less motion = less wear = longer life (for N value of 'lifespan'). Lighter weight and/or stronger contra spring will be what you want then. |
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Post by jbjtkbw00 on Dec 16, 2013 12:22:54 GMT -5
Great info. Thanks!
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Post by skuttadawg on Dec 16, 2013 23:56:31 GMT -5
I like how my Dr Pulley sliders perform and last much longer than rollers . With 9k miles I am sure they are worn out so they would weigh less than when new . If you got two sets like 12g and 14g you could test and compare as well as mix them to equal 13g for example .
My 4T 50 had 8g and it was so much better on take off and uphill with 5g . My 2T 50 had 6g . I tried 4g but they were too light . With a BBK I now run 8g sliders but I can still hit 9k up a steep hill with a running start
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Post by oldchopperguy on Dec 17, 2013 12:38:12 GMT -5
I'm new to the 250cc fraternity, and my "new" old Kymco seems to be good for me "as-is". However, I spent considerable time experimenting with roller weights on my old Xingyue GY6 150cc. The MAJOR differences made by SLIGHT weight changes was truly amazing. Some of my 150 experience should still be pertinent with the larger displacement scoots.
I had a Prodigy variator, and stock clutch. I first installed 13-gram rollers. Those gave me a great top-speed of 62mph at only 7,500 rpm. But zero acceleration and hill-climbing ability.
So I changed to 12-gram rollers. Just ONE gram lighter. Now, I had rocket-like acceleration, but a top-speed of only 45-47mph at nearly 10,000 rpm!
So... I finally settled on a mix of 3 ea. 12-gram, and 3 ea. 13-gram rollers. THAT gave me the best overall performance of all, with good acceleration and a top-speed of about 56mph at 8,500rpm.
So with the 150, the best all-round performance came down to only a HALF-GRAM change in rollers! After a couple of months of riding my old Kymco Grand Vista 250, I'm pretty sure the vastly increased horsepower and torque of the 250 would make it MUCH more forgiving of a variety of roller weights, but still, my 150 experience was an "eye-opener".
I never did get to try Dr. Pulley sliders. I had some on-hand to try when I decided I really needed a larger engine to keep up with changes in traffic. After watching just how sliders work however, I'm VERY convinced they are superior to rollers, since their "V" shape allows them to go ALL the way down, and ALL the way up in the variator. Rollers only contact the sides of the variator at their CENTERS. This "shorts" their ability to push on the variator by a good 1/8" at both ends!
That could equate to several mph more speed, AND more "dig" from a standing-start... And that's exactly what the advertising for sliders claims. With far more contact area, sliders should, in theory last longer than rollers, too.
My old Kymco seems to have the right roller-weight as it is, with strong acceleration and top-speed just shy of 80 mph. But I do believe I'll try sliders next spring, and see if they don't offer a little bit more "giddyup" and top-speed!
Also, I'm for SURE going to change out the 62mph-rated tires to 90mph+ rated highway tires! I constantly find myself running well over 70mph just to keep up with traffic (even on surface streets!). You just CAN'T do that safely on J-rated tires and stay healthy... When I notice I'm running way over the rating of the tires, I have to slow down to 60 or so, and that cancels the safety margin of running with traffic, instead of being an impediment to traffic. That's why I moved up to a 250 in the first place... duh...
I think you would be spending your time wisely to try some different weights. Just my opinion...
Ride safe!
Leo in Texas
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Post by richardthescooter1 on Dec 17, 2013 15:14:35 GMT -5
I won't go any higher then 14g, I'd go with the 13g  |
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Post by shalomdawg on Dec 17, 2013 17:12:26 GMT -5
yup leo, I found the grand vista would seem to not gear down going from flat to long hills and that put the engine down out of the power band. I would therefore guess that slightly lower weight rollers would help that though perhaps drop your top speeds as well. it's tough to know without experimentation.
lotsa miles and smiles to ya
ken
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Post by oldchopperguy on Dec 21, 2013 2:23:10 GMT -5
yup leo, I found the grand vista would seem to not gear down going from flat to long hills and that put the engine down out of the power band. I would therefore guess that slightly lower weight rollers would help that though perhaps drop your top speeds as well. it's tough to know without experimentation. lotsa miles and smiles to ya ken Ken, Fortunately, my Grand Vista tranny seems to perform just as it should. Uphill, downhill, fast, slow, etc. And, I know "if it ain't broke, don't fix it..." LOL! But it just looks to me like sliders are quite a bit more efficient than rollers, and I'd like to try them out to see. That doggone Kymco CVT has TWO covers... What a pain to dig down to the belt area... But it's probably a good project for a lazy spring weekend. Probably the secret of mine running well is that it's "broken-in and THEN some"... LOLOLOL! Ride safe, Leo |
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Post by rockynv on Dec 25, 2013 5:31:03 GMT -5
No. Weights have zero effect on the final drive diameter of the variator pulley (unless you go TOO light , preventing them from moving to the ends of their ramps/fully closing the pulley). Fully extended is fully extended, and the overall diameter of the variator pulley when fully closed will be the determining factor in your top speed. if you want to add a few MPH in the top end you'll need to step up to a larger diameter variator (think: 'overdrive gear') and/or replace the final drive gear-set. Rollers generally may not close up a variator completely since they are round and can't apply their full diameter to the very end of the ramps while sliders being wedge shaped can give you that little bit extra movement of the sliding sheeve to get it fully closed. Many find that with the OEM diameter rollers that when they mark the drive faces with a sharpie that the belt does not make it very close to the outside edge of the drive face while with sliders they finally are using the entire surface or pretty close to it. Some have tried going up to the next larger diameter roller to get the variator to close more fully however the sliders will generally give you the greatest variation from fully open too fully closed. |
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Post by shalomdawg on Dec 25, 2013 12:13:22 GMT -5
howdy , yup leo, mine had 8,000 miles on it when I sold it to a lady that only wanted to ride to work at walmart and around the tri-cities. I had ridden it on a couple 300 mile days and found it uncomfortable and coming over the mountain passes it was slow enough to make me nervous. I guess we all long for "just a little more" of this or that, so now i'm slobbering on a couple Goldwing choices but I still have to see if in can figure how to get mounted up and off without going into spasm--. i'll probably know in the next couple weeks if the weather permits. one of the owners seems open to take a trade of my diesel ford pickup so it may come down to making an agreeable deal.
lotsa miles and smiles to ya
ken
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Post by oldchopperguy on Dec 30, 2013 1:20:47 GMT -5
Hey, those Goldwings are SWEET!
But they ARE huge! You can now get scooters with 700, 800 and maybe larger engines that should provide plenty of giddyup... And still be easier to climb on and off than a big cycle. Cheaper too.
That big Honda flat-six engine is impressive, and plenty of bodywork to shine up too!
Ride safe,
Leo
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