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Post by ltdhpp on Dec 13, 2013 18:41:08 GMT -5
A performance clutch is supposed to feel like it grabs hard... that's the point.
I was very pleased with the NCY clutch/bells I put on my 50cc and 150cc GY6's - and they don't break the bank.
If you want to do wheelies, I hear the DR Pulley HIT clutch is the way to go.
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 13, 2013 18:55:44 GMT -5
the other thing to check, is the Idle speed. If it's too high, it will partially engage the clutch, and glaze it... perhaps that is why it has been giving me problems. i am aware that you should set the idle so the tire doesn't move but unfortunately no matter how much i turned the idle down my tire is always in motion. maybe i should sand the pads down some more? i don't think there is much clearance between the pads and bell. A performance clutch is supposed to feel like it grabs hard... that's the point. i just don't want to break it. i don't know how much pounding this cheap clutch can take. |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 13, 2013 19:14:00 GMT -5
maybe your variator is not opened all the way ?
John
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Post by americanpsycho on Dec 13, 2013 19:39:01 GMT -5
maybe your variator is not opened all the way ? John The wheel of the Tomos Sprint that I owned would spin at idle when on the center stand. |
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 13, 2013 21:08:00 GMT -5
The high idle is what is taking out the clutch... You need to fix that first, or it will just keep glazing clutches. And it won't matter if it's a high performance clutch. On a stock 50 or 150 bike, it's very rare you have to change the clutch. My clutch on my 150 has lasted 7k so far with very little wear and I'm a heavy rider and I ride pretty hard.
If you can't get the idle down, make sure your Throttle cable is not too tight. You should have a small amount of "free play" when you turn the throttle.
As for sanding the pads, In my experience that is always a temporary fix. The glazing is caused by excessive heat. The excessive heat tends to warp the clutch bell. Once they get "grabby", sanding the clutch pads seems to help but only for a short while.
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Post by millsc on Dec 14, 2013 9:23:53 GMT -5
with the valves set right and carb jetted correctly the wheel should not spin and the idle should be smooth, those things and a good cdi. The spinning wheel at idle ruins the clutch the clutch is fighting to turn but cant since your weight stops it, fix that, get a new clutch all will be good.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 14, 2013 12:25:15 GMT -5
The reason I'm pointing to a tight throttle cable is he is saying that the idle speed screw isn't lowering the idle.
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 14, 2013 14:02:02 GMT -5
The reason I'm pointing to a tight throttle cable is he is saying that the idle speed screw isn't lowering the idle. what i meant was i can lower the idle until the engine dies and the tire will still rotate very slowly. it wasn't like that on my old clutch. |
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 15, 2013 0:43:32 GMT -5
The reason I'm pointing to a tight throttle cable is he is saying that the idle speed screw isn't lowering the idle. what i meant was i can lower the idle until the engine dies and the tire will still rotate very slowly. it wasn't like that on my old clutch. Time to pull the CVT cover. It sounds like maybe one of the weights in the CVT might be hung up. The thing is, it shouldn't be turning the rear wheel if the idle is set correctly all things considered. Make sure the belt is all the way down in the front pulley. The clutch might have a shoe hanging up as well. OR How well does it idle... does it seem to be idling too fast, and when you turn it down, it just dies all at once? If it dies all at once when you turn down the idle screw, then it may be time for a valve adjustment or you have a vacuum leak. |
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Post by onewheeldrive on Dec 15, 2013 1:23:00 GMT -5
The reason I'm pointing to a tight throttle cable is he is saying that the idle speed screw isn't lowering the idle. what i meant was i can lower the idle until the engine dies and the tire will still rotate very slowly. it wasn't like that on my old clutch. Was it always like that with this newer clutch(spinning tire at any idle)? If not, it could be a broken clutch pad hitting the bell--- and that is what is touching the bell, causing your rear tire to spin no mater what the idle is set to. |
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 15, 2013 20:54:01 GMT -5
what i meant was i can lower the idle until the engine dies and the tire will still rotate very slowly. it wasn't like that on my old clutch. Was it always like that with this newer clutch(spinning tire at any idle)? If not, it could be a broken clutch pad hitting the bell--- and that is what is touching the bell, causing your rear tire to spin no mater what the idle is set to. with this new clutch i've never been able to adjust the idle so the tire doesn't spin. i took it off today, it is the little pin bearings that is causing it. i tried to lube them but i guess they were too tight from the start. it didn't help any. i'll just be certain to lube the new clutch. |
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Post by fugaziiv on Dec 16, 2013 9:41:36 GMT -5
If you want to do wheelies, I hear the DR Pulley HIT clutch is the way to go. This is entirely true. You can set these up to engage at a very high RPM with almost no slip. This will put your front wheel in the air, or spin your rear, depending on how you sit on your scoot. Not that this is recommended for good reliability or anything, but it sure is fun.  Matt |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 16, 2013 12:35:47 GMT -5
the grease needs to be squished in the needle bearings , be sure to get all the old grease out . It needs to be high temp grease that will not liquefy and run/drip .
John
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Post by skuttadawg on Dec 16, 2013 22:40:14 GMT -5
How many miles did you get out of the stock clutch ? My Echarm has 19,500 miles and I only blew out some dust and greased the shaft once when I replaced the belt and it still works good .
If if it cold and the choke is working it may idle higher and have some wheel spin . It should stop after it warms up some .
You can replace the clutch springs with 1k , 1.5k or 2k that open at their rating at that much more RPM than stock . I have 1.5k on my 2T which helps on initial takeoff big time .
I was looking at Dr Pulley clutch since I read great reviews , DRP is a good brand , and it comes with spring sets and weights so you can fine tune it . I have read a couple of posts that people had failure but it may be from an installation error .
NCY is a decent brand and should be better than stock . I plan on going with a Stage 6 since I can change out the springs with out having to remove the bell
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Post by rockynv on Dec 17, 2013 23:33:57 GMT -5
with this new clutch i've never been able to adjust the idle so the tire doesn't spin. i took it off today, it is the little pin bearings that is causing it. i tried to lube them but i guess they were too tight from the start. it didn't help any. i'll just be certain to lube the new clutch. Be sure to inspect the transmission input shaft that the clutch spins on. If the needle bearings were not greased properly then the shaft can get heated or scored and may now damage the bearings in any new clutch you put on it so it also may need to be replaced. |
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