UPDATE: Newbie with final drive question.  By  gsragtop (Read 1,825 times)

go get your money back.If it was dry, and bearings failed, chances are the gearbox casting is damaged too. When you saw the cvt cover loose,and he denied opening it you should have walked away

No I don't think it was run dry, I think the DSPO (dip s h * t previous owner) opened it and had no idea what to do.. That's why the clutch bolt was missing, otherwise it should have been in the case.. The ring gear for the back wheel is fine, all teeth there etc..

So what holds the shaft into the case?? When you tighten the clutch on what keeps it from just popping out?? Where can I get the herring and what lube do I use in the case?? Thanks

Ps the scooter only has 750 miles on it..

Ok so do I have to remove more of the case to reinstall the driveshaft?? Where can I find the correct procedure ??

Just took another look at mine, and I don't think the case will split like that.. I think on mine the rear wheel will have to come off then maybe the case splits from that side.. Does this make sence??

Also found the clutch bolt in the front compartment so the DSPO was absolutely in hear messing around..

BTW thank you so much for your help !!

Mmmmmm....the cheap fix and the DPSO. p)

BTDT D8

Even so, is you're willing and able to put a "little" time and money in to it...

With regard to needing to press (or pound) the gear onto the shaft: I see many admonitions not to try and heat the gear with a torch, but I haven't seen anyone try the old 'oven and freezer' method.

Many moons ago I had a power steering pump go out on my RoadRunner. I bought a new one, but being the inexperienced lad that I was, I did not know they did not come with the pulley attached. The pulley is a 'press-fit'. Cost me $20 to have a shop press the old pulley off just to turn in the core (the new pump was just a shade over $30 so that charge seemed rapacious).

To reinstall the pulley on the new pump, I simply put the pulley in the oven at about 250 degrees, and put the pump in the freezer. After about an hour (to make sure they had both achieved limits of their respective temperatures) I took the pump out of the freezer and (using a welding gauntlet) pulled the pulley out of the oven and just slipped it right on.

In fact.. it slipped on so easily I initially thought I had the wrong pump! It seemed like the shaft was too small diameter, but after a few minutes in close proximity to each other, the shaft warmed, and the pulley cooled, and when it was all said and done the pulley was bound up TIGHT on the shaft.

It seems as though one could do the same here: Place the gear in the oven, and the shaft in the freezer. I can't imagine that a mere 250 degrees (typically the lowest setting for a residential oven) would affect any tempering/hardening of the gear teeth (generally the reason given for NOT using a torch).

Ok, doesn't look like it's too bad. I can see the outer race still in there (6201) common bearing. I can see the inner race still on the shaft too. You will have to remove the wheel just so you can handle it easier. Remove the three bolts around the hole, and also the bolts on the outside of the cvt cover. There may or may not be a bolt behind the wheel. I would replace all the bearings while you are in there.The two on the shaft will need to be pressed in. If you Don't have an arbor press, best take it to someone who does.