Oil Change Interval  By  renegadestang (Read 9,231 times)

I suggest that the gear oil gets replaced with a synthetic gearbox oil, which would not have to be replaced for a few thousand km's.
Engine oil can also be replaced with a semi/full synthetic oil at about 3000km's, and changed when the book says so. I will change around every 2000km's. Sooner than that is a waste of expensive oil.
I heard that some Chinese scooters should not run on Semi/full synthetic, but that does not make sense.
Also, don't use synthetic with a wet clutch bike, unless the manufacturer recommends it.
I also suggest that the anti freeze be changed immediately from the el cheapo Chinese product to a better quality anti freeze.

[replyingto=salracer]sailracer[/replyingto]Engineers don't necessarily know it all, especially 'old school engineers. In my experience, most engineers experience is gained behind a desk, and are not capable of using a spanner. There are also better ways of giving your opinion without belittling others, but they don't teach that in engineer school.
PETROLEUM is the suggested oil, but there is nothing wrong with using a synthetic 75w90, which in mine and other engineers opinion will do a better job.
I agree that I have not seen metal flakes in oil with normal wear and tear, but have experienced it and seen it where there has been abuse, bad workmanship or a faulty part. I have stripped the gears off a cluster gear on numerous occasions while racing, and no quality of oil could of prevented it.

Hands on tells me that some folks may get away with not changing the gear lube as recommended while many will not. Asside from that all you have to do is look at all the posts from people who did not regularly change the gear oil and had gear box issues including fantom vibrations along with failure of the muffler system and rear body/frame members from the gear box vibrations. Too many times I have helped someone check their gearbox lube to find it with a grey tone to it from the suspended metal particles and potentially from deteriorating gasket material.

When I did the post mortum on my Lance on which the original owner had not changed the gear lube for 3,500 miles the bearing damage was clearly present as was the film of worn metal particles like putty in the bottom of the gearcase so I changed cleaned out the worn metal residue and all the damaged bearings. I left the gears and shafts as they did not seem worn enough to require it but would have changed them if upon reassembly I found them whining or clattering excessively now that they were back to their original alignment.

I rebult it myself and started changing the gear lube per the owners manual using non-synthetic lube as there is no sense in using a semi-permanent lube in a box that requires, due to its basic design and materials, that the lube be changed out multiple times per year.

Location also has a lot to do with it too. Here the roadways are close to or over 100 degrees most days and we have a year round riding season so the results may vary compared to a Northern State where the riding season is only a few months and the roadways rarely get over 75 or 80 degrees. Even the local roads here have 45 to 55 mph speed limits on which traffic flows a bit faster and a bike ridden in that type of traffic will need to be on a more severe maintenance schedule than one ridden where there are mainly 35 mph roads.

Have to consider which answer will harm the most folks and that will usually be to streatch out the maintenance schedule. So the "safe" answer is to change it with the engine oil as per the owners manual on most GY6. A bottle of conventional gear lube at Walmart will run less than $10 and will last most folks through the year and is cheaper than the muss and fuss of dealing with direct along with the collateral damage that can occure by skipping the changes.

Yes that probably is based on seasonal recreational use and not year round riding commuting to work and such however then a bike with full filtration and a better cooling system would be a more logical choice regardless of the country of origin.

50cc holds almost a quart of oil.
I don't think there's a possibility of adding a filter, but for sure a magnetic drain plug would reduce the amount of metallic particles in the oil that are the most immediate wear on the engine.

Though, another thing that worries me is metallic (steel) particles that get magnetized by the oil drain plug, and get released, could stick on steel walls due to the remnant magnetic field on them.
That on itself wouldn't be bad, if it wasn't that the engine case is made out of aluminum (non magnetic), and the only steel parts they would get drawn to are the cylinder and the bearings (which also happen to be experiencing the most movement...

Then again, a magnetic drain plug will most surely remove more steel particles out of the oil, than cause others to stick to the walls.

I picked up some gear oil when I bought engine oil.
I haven't changed the gear oil yet. I found a manual for my scooter.
It says: gearbox oil: SAE 10W-30/SE

That sounds like motor oil??
The gearbox oil I bought says; 85w-140

Wassup wid dat?