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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jul 21, 2013 8:54:09 GMT -5
I also have Rotella full synthetic.
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 21, 2013 8:56:20 GMT -5
My factory CDI was limited at 7,000rpm - I know because I swapped it back in for giggles after I got my tach.
I have done lots and lots of experimenting with sliders and now where it seems 'happiest' it doesn't see much over 7k anyway. It seems to pull just as fast at 6,500 as it did at 7,500 rpm... I only breaks past 7K above 50mph.
In stock form, my scooter lugged around at 4,500rpm too. Now it spends most of it's time around 5,500 to 6,500 and pulls great, even with 200 more pounds of load than a normal 150cc.
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Post by B. A. M. F. on Jul 21, 2013 13:42:30 GMT -5
im using the factory tach. are they known for being off? I know the odometer is... if so are aftermarket ones hard to install? it came factory with 8.5g rollers. gonna swing by the scooter shop this week, they say they have 7 and 8g sliders in stock. Ive already ordered the 23mm carb and red ignition coil from scrappys as well as an exhaust... cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=151068189621hope it makes it run alittle better. should I worry about what the new carb is jetted to or should it be good to go? |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2013 16:48:43 GMT -5
Yes way off and yes very easy to install. Wrap one wire around the plug wire and youre done.
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 21, 2013 17:27:58 GMT -5
The cheap tiny tachs don't have a very fast response time but they work fine for monitoring idle, cruising, and WOT rpms.
But, they are cheap and easy to install. Hardest part is to figure out where to put it!
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Post by newbscootdude on Jul 21, 2013 18:37:46 GMT -5
since my scooter is apart i was thinking about adding a tach as well. do i have to worry about getting a better electrical system to handle it? if not can i get some links to good ones doesnt have to be cheap id be willing to spend like 30-40 dollars on it i guess.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2013 18:45:16 GMT -5
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Post by newbscootdude on Jul 21, 2013 18:51:54 GMT -5
thanks that should be easy to mount as well.
but do i have to upgrade my electrical system to handle it?
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Post by newbscootdude on Jul 21, 2013 19:22:06 GMT -5
lol nvm  |
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Post by prodigit on Jul 21, 2013 20:56:51 GMT -5
I just noticed on both my ATM50 and EVO150 that upto 8k RPM is pretty safe.
Past 9 to 10k rpm, and the bolts just ramble loose.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2013 16:08:51 GMT -5
no upgrade needed.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jul 22, 2013 17:06:57 GMT -5
[replyingto=redroush00]redroush00[/replyingto]CDI and downhill with tailwind...lol
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Post by metrodee on Jul 23, 2013 4:07:40 GMT -5
I think replacing the clutch springs can also help. My TaoTao has the "red" (2k RPM) contra and small springs. Excellent acceleration and hillclimbing performance, and it seems to unlock more rpms at the top end.
I'm going to replace the clutch springs in my SunL in a week or so...
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Post by gitsum on Jul 23, 2013 11:03:39 GMT -5
My Tomos Nitro 150 came with 12 gram roller weights, and that was close to perfect. Switched to 12.5 sliders to keep everything the same.
WOT during acceleration is 6800 rpm's, 55 mph (actual) cruising is 7100 rpm's, which I have done for hours at a time in the desert heat.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jul 23, 2013 13:46:41 GMT -5
[replyingto=gitsum]gitsum[/replyingto]Maybe I should put my 12g back in,,I got 13g sliders in and my WOT from dead stop is about 6100,,then at 45 it starts climbing,,at 50-55 its about 7k-7.5k.Maybe I should just put the 12g back in,,I like the 13g cause I cruise around here at 40 mph all day long taching 5.5k,,it will last forever like that,,plus it will pull any hill around here at 35 mph 1/4 throttle,,not bad for a china girl.
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(need 112)
