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Joined: May 7, 2013 7:20:54 GMT -5
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Post by bolsadepiojo on Jun 25, 2013 9:35:54 GMT -5
My front break is getting a little squishy. I need to do a front break adjustment but I can't find any good videos online. Can anyone help?
I have a 150cc Xingyue ITA150.
I'll probably want to do a rear adjustment as well if you think it's advise.
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 25, 2013 9:39:26 GMT -5
It is time to do a thorough bleed of both brakes - be sure to get new fluid through the lines.
I bled both of mine when I broke the right hand sight 'glass'. New clean brake fluid works so much better. Stick with DOT3 brake fluid, don't use synthetic brake fluid.
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Post by rockynv on Jun 25, 2013 11:56:54 GMT -5
Every 2 years minimum you need to flush out hydraulic brakes with fresh new brake fluid. Don't use any from a can that has been sitting for more than a month for the flush and refill process. As for adjustments there are not any on disk brakes.
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Post by pmatulew on Jun 25, 2013 12:14:43 GMT -5
Brake fluid is hygroscopic. Which means it absorbs water, (and other contaminants). That's why after a while it turns dark and then cloudy. The chemical reactions in old fluid also make it corrosive. Not good for aluminum and rubber seals and hoses.
Loads of Youtube videos available on bleeding brakes.
Change it. Bleed it properly. Ride happy.
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Post by ramblinman on Jun 25, 2013 13:31:45 GMT -5
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New Rider
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Posts: 20
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Joined: May 7, 2013 7:20:54 GMT -5
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Post by bolsadepiojo on Jun 25, 2013 13:49:32 GMT -5
I just did bleed the breaks. Maybe I left a little air in the front break is what you're saying? Just re-bleed it and see if it helps?
I did it about a month ago and I guess it's been getting slowly squishier since. Thanks guys!
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Post by ramblinman on Jun 25, 2013 13:53:20 GMT -5
I just did bleed the breaks. Maybe I left a little air in the front break is what you're saying? Just re-bleed it and see if it helps? I did it about a month ago and I guess it's been getting slowly squishier since. Thanks guys! yes, assuming no leaks then air is the cause of squishy brakes. (to my knowledge) |
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jun 25, 2013 14:05:01 GMT -5
All good advice!
True, there are NO adjustments on the hydraulic disk brakes. If you have a mechanical drum-brake on the rear, it should be adjustable.
I just got done doing a total re-do on my own brakes, as both my rear-disk lever/master-cylinder AND rear caliper were bad. NOT a common thing, but my scoot is over 5 years old, and the master cylinder was truly poor from the get-go.
If you follow the directions in the video by Alleyooop, you won't go wrong. It IS possible you left some air in the system. Using the method of "reverse-filling" and bleeding in the video virtually ends that problem.
Best wishes on this project!
Leo in Texas
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Post by rockynv on Jun 26, 2013 4:27:34 GMT -5
Just remember that while Dot3 absorbs water Dot5 absorbs air and can cause squishy brakes. So can a loose bleeder or not tightening the bleeder sufficiently before you release the brake handles or let off the vacuume bleeder which will draw air back into the braking system.
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 26, 2013 7:41:36 GMT -5
The ITA 150 has front and rear disk brakes.
An interesting note about the rear brake on my Znen, also a f/r disk scooter.
Recently after long stretches between stops - like a mile or two, I realized I had to pump the rear brake.
Then my exhaust bracket broke, and then an ear on the engine where the swing arm mounts at the top broke.
And the rear axle nut was snug, not tight.
The swing arm had play, so any possible wobble in the wheel was also wobbling the rotor, and therefore pushing the pads further apart. Now the swing arm is secured, and the axle is tight. I did not ride far enough to check it yet, but I am sure after I rejet the carb, the rear brake will be good to go (stop) without pumping.
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