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Post by nate7504 on May 1, 2013 9:07:51 GMT -5
So this morning I made it prob 500 feet from my garage and I heard this awfull scrapping noise,I shut it off and pushed it home,I removed the cvt cover and turns out the variator nut came loose and allowed the variator fan to hit the inside of the cvt cover,no fins broke off, but you can see where the made contact,now the only issue I see is I pulled off the fan and the drive boss I believe it's called will not budge so now the ramp is not removable it is being held by the drive boss,all the splines look fine so why can't I remove it? I put it all back together and it runs perfect but what if I ever need to replace the back part of the variator,
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Post by millsc on May 1, 2013 9:36:28 GMT -5
My t3 drive face is hard to get off probably the splines are slightly messed up i sprayed it with liquid wrench and wiggle it back and forth hand on each side with some decent force it comes off
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Post by chihuahuas on May 1, 2013 9:55:37 GMT -5
The nut comes loose and hits the starter dog and makes that noise. Mine came loose all the time, like every 1200 miles. Turns out the nut has to be put on tighter than possible with a wrench. I got an impact now and I don't have that problem. And no I don't use glue. Real Mechanics don't glue things together, WE weld them or they WELD themselves. To get the tube off the shaft you can spray you favorite whatever spray, WD40, Fluid Film, Hair Spray, and work it loose. What happens it the tube spins and then it sticks. It's a suck azz design.  Awe Man that img reminds me of Old Island Boy Ziggy and the Head Top, Roll it one time for the Zigg Mon !!!!!!!!!! |
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Post by rockynv on May 2, 2013 4:37:18 GMT -5
You will probably need to work it off with some finesse to get past any burs or deposits created when the nut came off. When they wiggle loose it can leave some of the softer aluminum from the variator on the crankshafts splines.
On many the variator nut is one time use and should be replaced with a new one anytime it has been removed. You are supposed to use thread compound if the engine manufacturer specifies it and then use a tourque wrench otherwise you end up overtightening the nut and start stripping the threads off the end of the crank shaft. If the maker calls for thread compound then the torque spec is for a shaft with thread locker in the liquid state on it so if you set them dry you will not be at the correct tightness.
Real mechanics fix it right according to factory specs the first time and when they do then these types if issues happen far less often.
Get it done right and you'll spend less time wrenching and more time riding.
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Post by indymoped on May 2, 2013 7:49:12 GMT -5
I had the same thing happen to me last year. I had to work at it for a bit to get it off. Even now when I go to pull it off it gets hung up a bit.
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Post by nate7504 on May 2, 2013 8:00:05 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies,it was my fault when I swapped out the variator for the Koso one I know I did not tighten the nut enough,I was so worried the sound it made was horrific,I was surprised it did not break fins off the variator fan,just scuffed them up some,when I pull it off would it be worth it to coat the splines with anti seize compound?
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Post by rockynv on May 2, 2013 12:07:36 GMT -5
Antiseize would be ok in moderation as long as it is not copper based. Copper mixed with aluminum can create an corrosive electrolosis that can eat away at the aluminum parts.
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