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Post by scootnwinn on Apr 30, 2013 22:54:44 GMT -5
Yep you will have wear from the suspended crud which won't get filtered out in a GY6. That is why non-detergent oil is usually specified for engines lacking an oil filter which allows the impurities that develope to settle in the bottom of the oil pan near the drain instead of being suspendend in the detergent oil so they can be picked up by the oil filter. Putting synthetic in a GY6 can actually lead to accelerated wear since the wear causing combustion byproducts and metal particles may be kept in suspension and pumped back through the oil pump and up into the head. Thus is absolute trueness guys if you have no filter do not use detergent. If you do you are basically making sure the nastiness, that should settle in the screen, keeps circulating through your engine. |
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Post by onewheeldrive on Apr 30, 2013 22:56:03 GMT -5
I'm convinced that I could change my oil every day and my crankshaft still wouldn't make it past 25,000km.
I don't think I've made it past 15,000-- maybe the first one did.
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Post by payneib on Apr 30, 2013 23:46:01 GMT -5
According to that BMS link I should be changing my oil twice a week.
No chance.
I'll stick to 1000km changes and do them every week and a half.
Ian
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 1, 2013 0:12:29 GMT -5
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Post by rockynv on May 1, 2013 4:55:01 GMT -5
I'm convinced that I could change my oil every day and my crankshaft still wouldn't make it past 25,000km. I don't think I've made it past 15,000-- maybe the first one did. That is why I traded my GY6 in on a 250 with a full flow oil filter. With synthetic the oil changes set by the factory are at 6,250 miles which is twice a year for me instead of monthly. You have to consider what the needs of the motor are and go with the lube that best meets them. For a GY6 it would be a short term oil that is cheap enough to be changed out every week if that is where the 500 to 1,000 mile interval falls and would not keep the abrasive engine killing particles constantly flowing through the engine. |
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Post by superscootsuperman on May 1, 2013 5:40:29 GMT -5
so guys is things like Rotella T ok or what? i change oil around every 1200-1500 miles on both my scoots (one has a filter, one a screen) and both have 10,000+ miles on 'em and all seems a-ok. no burning or excessive consumption i don't want to need to change oil types if i don't have to  |
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Post by bvance554 on May 1, 2013 9:40:06 GMT -5
so guys is things like Rotella T ok or what? i change oil around every 1200-1500 miles on both my scoots (one has a filter, one a screen) and both have 10,000+ miles on 'em and all seems a-ok. no burning or excessive consumption i don't want to need to change oil types if i don't have to With 10,000+ miles on them I would keep doing what you're doing.... |
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 3, 2013 1:10:49 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure, that no matter what oil you use (with no filter specifically), it's not all coming out with the oil when you drain it---due to the slowness that it drains, and that gets even slower AS it drains. Maybe I'll rotate sides--- I can drain the oil in 2 spots on my scooter. One spot is on the other side of my scoot---where there is no screen strainer. I can still clean the strainer after the oil is drained. Lol. Or maybe I'll use just use non-detergent oil. When it comes time to change that, I'll drain that out. Then, immediately after, I'll fill it back up with an oil full of detergents, and drain that right then and there, too. That way the detergents will do a better job pulling out (with it) whatever is left at the bottom of the case?  |
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Post by scootnwinn on May 3, 2013 1:29:10 GMT -5
Not a bad idea. If you can drain a bit out before your oil change and replace it with Marvel Mystery Oil and run it a bit then drain it all out it while it warmish it would have a similar effect
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Post by rockynv on May 3, 2013 4:00:11 GMT -5
Warm oil flows pretty fast when you drain it with the dip stick removed. It is the initial flow that gets the heavy particles out. A quick rinse/flush afterwards with some spritzes of carb cleaner or even a flush with diesel fuel/kerosene will get the rest.
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2013 15:25:32 GMT -5
So far seems to be okay. No leaks. Also, I dont see any gain in top speed and thats odd to me.
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Post by scootnwinn on May 4, 2013 16:22:38 GMT -5
Why would changing the oil give you a top speed increase?
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Post by Jarlaxle on May 4, 2013 18:32:08 GMT -5
Less internal drag. It's not much...but on something like a small scoot (where increases can be in tenths of HP), I can see switching from, say, 20W-50 to 5W-30 being worth some top end.
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Post by scootnwinn on May 4, 2013 18:55:39 GMT -5
The additional horsepower needed to power through the wind at top speed is a lot more than you think
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Post by rockynv on May 4, 2013 22:55:25 GMT -5
With the low pressure and flow from the GY6 oil pump and the fairly loose tolerance on the crank pin and main bearings you really should not go to a 30W oil unless you are running at temps below freezing. 30W in a lawn mower you can get away with because the bearings are fairly wide and the engine does not spin much faster than around 3,000 rpm depending on the length of the blade to maintain the blade tip speed below the legal limit. Even at that the velocoty of a typical lawn mower blade is greater than a 357 hand gun. The GY6 scooter engine by comparison at 50 mph is nearing 8,000 rpm and 30W may not always have enough film tension to prevent metal on metal contact in the bearings once the engine gets hot.
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