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Post by bvance554 on May 4, 2013 23:52:20 GMT -5
Seriuosly, you're nit going to see any performance gains from changing to a different type of oil.
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Post by chris9183 on May 6, 2013 8:29:21 GMT -5
I switched from dino oil to full synthetic in my scooter and it started leaking through the oil pan gaskets out the bottom of the engine. That didn't stop me though; full synthetic IS better, in all cases. I took the engine out, took it apart, and replaced all the gaskets/seals in the engine. The oil leak is completely gone and synthetic oil works great now.
Dino oil lets molecules of gunk build up in your gaskets over time, which has a "clogging" effect that keeps the oil from leaking out even moreso. But if you suddenly switch to synthetic from dino, the synthetic oil is so good that it cleans out that gunk from the gaskets, which leaves little spaces for it to leak out.
Synthetic is better in every way and will add many years of life to your engine, but be prepared to replace your gaskets when you first start using it, if you've been using dino oil for any amount of time.
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Post by millsc on May 6, 2013 8:39:24 GMT -5
i started with 15 40 rotella t for break in then went to 10 40w castrol, after 1000 miles i'm running synblend, gonna go full synthetic next oil change, the synblend still looks new after 500 miles so gonna leave it in till it starts to blacken
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Post by rockynv on May 6, 2013 21:20:24 GMT -5
i started with 15 40 rotella t for break in then went to 10 40w castrol, after 1000 miles i'm running synblend, gonna go full synthetic next oil change, the synblend still looks new after 500 miles so gonna leave it in till it starts to blacken You can't go just by color as there may still be abrasive metal particles suspended in the oil well before the color changes. The only way to know for sure is to send the oil out to be tested by an outfit such as BlackStone Labs. On an engine without an oil filter you really need to follow the published oil change schedule regardless of the oil used. It is the quality of the full flow filter that works in concert with a synthetic oil to extend the oil change intervals. |
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Post by prodigit on May 6, 2013 21:29:04 GMT -5
DX
In the beginning you have plenty of metal flakes suspended in the oil. Much more than exhaust gas carbon. These need to be flushed, even if the oil still looks clear!
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Post by millsc on May 7, 2013 8:26:52 GMT -5
Wouldn't figure i have metal particles after 1500 miles  |
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 7, 2013 12:46:01 GMT -5
I had/have one of those magnetic oil drain bolt kits, and there was always some fine metal shavings on the bolt when I wiped it out.
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 7, 2013 12:54:09 GMT -5
I understand that when a crank bearing goes out, you'll have a TON more metal in your oil. I'm saying that about  % of it was still sitting in the case, mostly at the bottom. You can use your finger and wipe anywhere inside the engine, not just the bottom, and you'll find your finger will be greyish from the metal. It seems that's just a much larger scale of what actually happens with these metal shavings. They aren't coming out. EDIT: To be a tad more fair, I've never taken taken an engine apart immediately after running it. I'm sure it settled to the bottom over time, but still.. |
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Post by rockynv on May 7, 2013 21:34:33 GMT -5
If you go a little heavy on the throttle before the bike is warmed up you will get more metal putty in the bottom of the engine however with a high suspension oil such as a synthetic it will not settle as quickly and that metal will get recirculated causing continued wear after the initial event of not allowing a minutes warmup to get the oil circulating or running at WOT which can run the engine lean heating it up to close to a soft seize so that some fine metal particulate ends up in the oil. In the worst cast it will appear as metal wool in the oil screen.
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Post by payneib on May 8, 2013 10:07:59 GMT -5
I know all the theory about letting an engine warm up to get good oil flow etc, my only concern is that I've literally never seen any metal particulate in my oil screen. Changing my oil every 1000km may have something to do with me not seeing a build up, but I'm worried there might just be a layer of metallic sludge in my sump.
Seeing as all the magnetic sump caps are from the US (why is there no aftermarket for GY6 in the UK?) I was thinking of pinching a lump of magnet from work and putting it inside the spring, between the cap and the screen to draw stuff into the screen.
Anyone reckon that'd work?
Ian
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Post by prodigit on May 8, 2013 11:04:52 GMT -5
most of the metal is aluminum. Magnets are non effective.
Quite often after 2000miles you barely see any flakes in the oil anymore.
Only when you're outside in the sun, or under a strong light, might you see some glittering.
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Post by rockynv on May 8, 2013 20:36:01 GMT -5
Just because you can't see it the metal in the oil with the naked eye does not mean it is not there. A magnet may help with ferrous metal shavings from the rings, sleeve, valve train and crank shaft it won't do anything for the rod and main bearings which will be non-magnetic putty or sludge.
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Post by millsc on May 9, 2013 11:01:15 GMT -5
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% of it was still sitting in the case, mostly at the bottom. You can use your finger and wipe anywhere inside the engine, not just the bottom, and you'll find your finger will be greyish from the metal.