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Post by carefulrider on Nov 14, 2014 10:26:15 GMT -5
Thanks All:
Shall place a sheet of plastic on the ground, roll the scoot onto it, put Sta-bil into gasoline & fill up the fuel tank, change the oil & cover up the scoot with a bed sheet.
It will be stored in what Harbor Freight sells as a portable garage. It's the metal frame covered over with a plastic tarp; not readily portable, but one which can be disassembled & taken elsewhere for set up again.
I'll bring the battery indoors & see if I can't start the scoot up every fortnight, until the snow finally melts & the rain washes the salt off the roads.
Thanks again.
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Post by carefulrider on Nov 13, 2014 11:20:01 GMT -5
Thanks for your views. Now I hope someone has some suggestions for preserving the cylinder walls...
As for filling the fuel tank with gasoline & additives for the winter, my scooter's fuel level indicator's float gets submerged when the tank is full. Will it be harmful to the float system to remain submerged for around four months, while waiting for Spring?
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Post by carefulrider on Nov 12, 2014 11:32:40 GMT -5
I'm looking for an oil additive that reduces the wear & tear caused by 'dryness' of cylinder walls after the scooter has remained unused over night. Any recommendations?
By extension, any suggestions for an additive that would remain "stuck to" the cylinder walls over the winter, while the scooter waits for the riding season to begin again in Spring?
Finally, since we know that oil deteriorates while sitting & waiting for Spring, why is it not a good idea to drain the oil & leave the "sump" empty till just prior to riding again?
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Post by carefulrider on Nov 12, 2014 11:05:36 GMT -5
Below is some information I have gathered from the forums that might help:
Did you check the integrity of the wiring as it/they lead from one electrical component to the next all the way from the stator to the spark plug? If any one length of wiring is not sending the current to the intended component, spark in not going to be present at the plug.
GROUND:
Assuming it is a 150cc, check the wire that runs from above the fan to the frame ground on the bolt behind the battery that has two other wires attached to it. The wire is thin... replacing it with 14 gage is desirable, though not necessary. Without the engine being grounded, it's not going to start. It's very important that all ground wires are clean & have a solid connection. You should have a fat black or green wire running from the battery - to the frame & another ground from the frame to the engine. Check to verify that it/they has/have continuity.
Check all connectors to make sure they are tight before you start. Could possibly be just faulty connections or loose ground also.
Hold the brake handle or tie it in the pulled position. Ensure that the Kill switch is off; that the scooter is on the center stand with the side stand up.
If it does not start, bypass the kill switch. A very common cause of no spark is a defective ignition or kill switch. Before beginning to troubleshoot ignition problems, it is best to bypass the kill switch.
Bypassing the switch:
1. Reference/look at a picture of a GY6 CDI.
2. Create a jumper wire from pin #4 directly to a good grounding spot on the engine.
3. Remove the #5 wire from the CDI plug at the harness. This can be done with a hobby knife blade. Looking from the front of the plug, you will see small metal tabs on each pin which secure them to the plug. Push the tab down & the pin will release. Be careful not to break the plug or pin. Now see if the scooter will start. If not, the kill switch is not defective.
If your high tension plug wire is cracked the spark can jump from the wire to the frame or engine before it gets to the plug. The spark plug cap may be bad allowing the same thing to happen. Of course, ensure that the spark plug is gapped properly.
SPARK PLUG BOOT:
Then check the spark plug boot for looseness.
There is a small electrode located in the spark plug cap, remove the small brass screw inside to find a small spring & a carbon electrode. Sometimes they are burnt & cracked causing a reduction (or elimination of) in the spark. So inspect the  ° cap on the spark plug.
If the carbon electrode is present & in good condition, continue on & check your spark plug high tension wire for continuity.
Hope this helps you get started on a methodical journey to diagnosing the lack of spark at the plug.
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Post by carefulrider on May 16, 2014 9:17:23 GMT -5
Have posed this question in other forums & have got some replies. I'd like your opinions as well to arrive at a general consensus.
I have a Chinese 2007, Sunl, Adventure, LB150T-12; 157QMJ, with a 150 cc GY6 engine. The scoot is equipped with all stock parts. No modifications of any kind. I just attached a tachometer to the scoot, as this model didn't come with one.
Now I wonder what the most economical RPM is to operate the scoot.
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Post by carefulrider on May 16, 2014 8:33:10 GMT -5
When my scoot arrived:-
• The front tire was out-of-round.
• the front fender had a ½" crack in it.
• The front wheel rim was out-of-round.
• The carb jets needed to be cleaned out in order for me to be able to ride on the roads.
• The steering fork stem lower tapered roller bearing race had "sticking" areas & had to be replaced.
• The head lights shone into the moon. After maximum adjustment down, the lights shone into the tree leaves. So driving at night is not easy as sight is limited.
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Post by carefulrider on Jul 9, 2013 9:51:34 GMT -5
With a view to softening the ride of my 2007 LB150T-12, SUNL ADVENTURE 150cc scoot, I just put on new nitrogen-filled shock absorbers. To my dismay, the ride is harder than the conventional absorbers that I just took off. The spring pre-load adjustment is all the way up to the top of the adjusting threads, so if I did any threaded adjustment, it would be "down" the threads, thereby compressing the springs. I don't think that would yield a softer ride.
I checked the pressure in the shock absorber reservoir cylinders: one is 26 psi & the second is 32 psi.
I have read that I can expect a rather soft ride with this type of shock absorber. What should I do to acheive this soft ride?
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Post by carefulrider on Jun 17, 2013 8:19:46 GMT -5
It's been quite some time since I posted my request. I presume there are no used ones for sale at this time. Thanks for looking. I shall now probably go ahead & purchase a new pair. I'll buy a cheaper, & presumably lesser quality pair than your offer, ScooterElements. Ride safely!
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Post by carefulrider on Jun 14, 2013 7:27:04 GMT -5
My 2007 157QMJ GY6, LB150T-12, SUNL ADVENTURE 150cc has such a hard ride, that I should like to buy a pair of used air/nitrogen-filled adjustable shock absorbers to try & make the ride comfortable.
Below is a list of the dimensions of the existing standard stock shock absorbers on my scoot. So I presume I would need a pair quite close to those dimensions.
OAL : 14¼ " or 14.2500" or 360 mm
EYE 2 CLEVIS: 13-3/16" or 13.1875" or 335 mm
DIA : 2 " or 2.0000" or 50 mm
EYE DIA : 7/16 " or .4375" or 11 mm
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Post by carefulrider on May 31, 2013 8:38:41 GMT -5
Thank you for the effective way to remove the race.
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Post by carefulrider on May 24, 2013 9:54:46 GMT -5
I have a 2007 LB150T-12, SUNL ADVENTURE 150cc with 10,500 miles on it.
The handlebar began to get sticky in the straight-ahead position. Upon disassembly I discovered that the steering stem lower headset bearing race is worn & needs to be replaced.
I tried to place the jaws of a slide hammer/puller on the race's side, but there isn't adequate space for the jaws to grip the race. Any suggestions on how to remove the race?
Thanks in advance.
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Post by carefulrider on May 24, 2013 9:48:34 GMT -5
Any chance of you returning to the original stock air filter & jet? That would eliminate your current condition. Then all you would need to do is replace the exhaust muffler, if it is aged & falling apart, & you should then be able to enjoy the use of a trouble-free scoot, at least, until the next time something needs attention!
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° cap on the spark plug.