|
|
Post by geh3333 on Dec 8, 2015 18:00:06 GMT -5
Yeh , honestly the new engine may be just fine running over redline , maybe even up to and over 9000 rpms , however I would never chance hitting 9k or even running at 8k for extended lengths of time . I'm curious how high the oil temps get at those rpms for extended periods.
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Dec 8, 2015 8:00:09 GMT -5
The only thing to remember : when u reinstall the side cover , the swingarm will be loose and the front of it will be on the ground . if you install the side cover with the swingarm still on the ground , you will not be able to raise it back into place because it will hit the bottom of the dipstick port . you must hold it up while putting the cover in place. I did this a few times and had to take the cover back off . it ssucks having to take all the bolts back out and having to pull the flywheel because you forget this , lol. I would have pulled the swing arm off then repositioned it into place. Just my .02 John Problem is that I have to remove my muffler so I can remove the swingarm. The muffler has 6 Allen Head bolts that take forever to remove. Its actually quicker to remove the flywheel and cover . |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Dec 8, 2015 4:12:13 GMT -5
You also detach the rear shock from the swingarm . this allows the swingarm to move up and down on the axle . Thanks for the advice, I may try that next time.., but it was good practice working on it anyway.  The only thing to remember : when u reinstall the side cover , the swingarm will be loose and the front of it will be on the ground . if you install the side cover with the swingarm still on the ground , you will not be able to raise it back into place because it will hit the bottom of the dipstick port . you must hold it up while putting the cover in place. I did this a few times and had to take the cover back off . it ssucks having to take all the bolts back out and having to pull the flywheel because you forget this , lol. |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Dec 8, 2015 4:06:50 GMT -5
Take a screwdriver and place the handle against your ear, then put the tip on the engine. Move from point to point till you determine where the noise is coming from. Many mechanics have stethoscopes for this, but the old screwdriver trick works fine. Very nice . I know mine was very pronounced and was much more noticeable from the fan side . his seems very pronounced also , but that would def work if he is not sure . |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Dec 8, 2015 4:04:14 GMT -5
I actually still have everyone of my variators and drive faces I've ever ran , and no issues with grooves or waves, but I do agree that some may not catch it just by looking at them . wait I lied , I no longer have the k&s variator .
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Dec 8, 2015 4:00:45 GMT -5
Here is a pic of the belt .  |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Dec 8, 2015 3:40:32 GMT -5
I think the reason I've never had any grooves " or even any hint of grooves " after 20k + miles , is because the ncy finless drive face I used was made much better then the stock type drive faces. I did run my first koso variator for nearly 3 years with no grooves. Considering all the 125-150cc gy6 koso variators are all fake junk , I'm surprised it didn't show any type of hard wearing from the gates aramid belts. Some may think that if they eyeball things and do not use a steel rule to check the drive faces. What may look good the the eye can still be rippled, dished, arced, wavy and way out of spec when examined with a steel straight edge. Gates Aramid is good while Kevlar belts especially the cheap stiff ones with raw cord at the surface ready to grind drive faces away is very bad. Yes the softer bargain and fake drive faces will wear faster. I'm not sure if the cheap kevlars are real " Kevlar " or just aramid like all the name brands like , gates , Athena , mrp, and so on . I would not be surprised of the cheap knock offs are made of some kind of other material . I doubt its actually Kevlar. If so they could not sell then for $8 a belt . the Kevlar would be a little more expensive to actually make. They probably use some kind of hard a-s rubber that doesn't flex much . I have one of these belts in my arsenal " never used and never will be used, lol " it is so stiff and hard . I'd like to have someone take one and have it canalized to see what its made out of. They also usually snap really quick. I had 2 of them , tried one and it exploded into pieces in under 300 miles , actually it may have been 30 miles lol, I can't really remember. I made a post a few years back about it . but yeh , if they where Kevlar or aramid , they would not snap so easy . I'd bet money they are nothing but a very cheap hard rubber with cheap nylon cords. |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Dec 7, 2015 23:49:30 GMT -5
I have some severely grooved variators. I will post pics. I'm talking about in less than 1500 miles. I think I need to change to real Gates belts. Or Bando. Definitely . my goodness , a grooved variator in 1500 miles. If the belt was the main issue , I'd def not use that type ever again. |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Dec 7, 2015 23:46:47 GMT -5
Wow great episode !!
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Dec 7, 2015 19:06:35 GMT -5
Since everyone is so interested , I figure I'd let everyone know the 2 hr season finale of street outlaws is on 2nite !!
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Dec 7, 2015 19:03:41 GMT -5
A quick way to see if the oil pump is at least working , is to remove the valve cover and start the scoot. If the pump is working you will see oil spray onto the cam and rocker arms. The oil will prob spray out , so lay a towel down so it doesn't make a mess. Also only let it run for a few seconds , just enough to see if it's working or not. Even if it is working , that dosent guarantee the pump is not making the noise , but if it is not working , you have a very good chance you just found where the noise is coming from.
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Dec 7, 2015 18:59:18 GMT -5
 Weird clicking noise jumpy rmps at idle I hear the noise , is it more pronounced at the top end or being the cooling fan ? I had some weird noise at times similar to yours and it was a starter clutch issue. I can't guarantee that , but its a possibility. If its more pronounced at the top end , it may just be loose valves. It does not sound like a bearing issue , but if the noise is from th . Fan side , I'd first make sure nothing is stuck in the cooling shroud making contact with the fan . I once had a piece of cardboard sucked into the shroud and was making contact with the fan causing a clicking noise . if not that , I would expect either a starter clutch or oil pump issue. |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Dec 7, 2015 18:49:12 GMT -5
I am too cheap to replace a good variator so they are ready to give up the ghost when I do so a new drive face is required. If they are already showing even the beginnings of grooving and the surfaces have already started to wear and arc why put a new flat true varitor face paired with an old drive face that's no longer perfectly flat. I think the reason I've never had any grooves " or even any hint of grooves " after 20k + miles , is because the ncy finless drive face I used was made much better then the stock type drive faces. I did run my first koso variator for nearly 3 years with no grooves. Considering all the 125-150cc gy6 koso variators are all fake junk , I'm surprised it didn't show any type of hard wearing from the gates aramid belts. |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Dec 6, 2015 20:28:53 GMT -5
I think most do not realize that the stock drive faces are 115mm Yes the outer pulley is 115mm the stock inner in 107mm, the larger pulley and different angle ramps is the difference. here is a link you should read it may bring some insight to your decision, scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/11542/#ixzz3mIqFApF0John I was referring only to the drive face . most refer to the outer part of the variator assembly as the drive face. Many do not realize that the stock drive face is 115 and buy a new one separately from the new 115 variator. Some assemblies come with a new drive face , but actually I the stock one will work just fine with a high performance 115 variator. |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Dec 5, 2015 4:08:55 GMT -5
I think most do not realize that the stock drive faces are 115mm
|
|
