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Post by geh3333 on Dec 18, 2015 0:47:06 GMT -5
Any weird noises from the behind the cooing fan while the engine is turning over? Did you test the plug for spark " not just the screwdriver in the boot test" ?
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 18, 2015 0:36:38 GMT -5
I'd like to see someone tune a nice full taida built engine to reach 10k , and see how long the engine holds out after normal use. This is the whole problem . when u have an engine like this that taps out at 7500 rpms with 12-14 gram roller weights , your not going to get too much more if you tune the CVT so that the engine can reach 10k. For instance. To reach 10k you would need to drop the roller weights down to between 7-8 grams . this in turn will kill belt climb and I would not expect that 2500 rpm more would be able to cause enough force for the 7-8 gram weights to push the belt up the variator as far as what the 12-14 gram weights at 7500 rpms was able to. So what you would have is a scoot screaming down the road at 10k rpms but only running near the same mph it was running at 7500 rpm. That and now your running at higher engine temps. I've actually had an out comes like this while tuning my CVT before. I forget the exact weihts , but I will explain . when running let's say 9 gram rollers I was able to reach a top speed of 67 mph at 7500 rpms. When I tried 8 gram weights , my rpms shot up to over 8,000+ rpm but my mph went down to 62 mph . the higher rpms could not spin the gram lighter weights fast enough to push the belt up the variator as high as the 9 gram setup at 7500 rpms was able to . I guess its not just can the parts take the 10k rpm range , but will it be worth it ? |
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 15, 2015 8:10:40 GMT -5
Ride it like you stole it, bores and pistons are reasonably cheap on GY6 engines, you can treat them as consumables. My concern is throwing a rod, because of the damage it could cause. And I have no idea what and how the rod is made on these crank sets. And I have no idea what kind of valve springs Taida uses. The Taiwan 60mm head I had before supposedly had 12k stainless springs ... but who knows. This engine is only running at 190cc - which is 18% under the max they can handle. So, there is plenty of meat in the case and probably not very much movement. And the oil cooler keeps everything nice and cool. Even running at 75mph for a while the oil does not get up much past 150. I guess the main issue here is what the intended use is. 60 or 65mph top speed, for me, was just inadequate. It's not that I want to exceed this often - the scooter suspension isn't safe at higher speeds - but when the occasion arises i want to have the reserve. And i don't want to be slowing down to 50 or 45 going up hills. And, mainly, I want to be able to cruise along at normal speeds (60 or so) without the engine wailing like it's a jet taking off. So, even if 8K is safe for extended periods of time (I'm not yet convinced) I don't want that racket, vibration and irritation. Being ABLE to juice it is vital - but cruising at 6500 or 7000 is what I'm after. Did you ever locate a swing arm for your scoot ? |
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 14, 2015 23:53:45 GMT -5
There are really only three things to take into consideration when discussing redlining, piston+crank mass vs alloy strength, bearing limits, and valve float. On a gy6, the main issue is valve float up to redline, then crank mass, then bearing limits. If you want a super gy6 to redline regularly, you will need to have stronger valve springs. Engine age and normal usage also are important factors. An engine that is babied all the time will suffer most when redlined due to a lip that forms at the end of the piston ring travel. An engine that is redlined, or close to it, often will not have such a pronounced lip edge. This lip edge can break rings when pushed on a babied engine. One other main issue is heat !! When u run these engines up past redline the oil temps rise and rise . I've done this on many ocassions. Heat is possibly the #1 killer when it comes to these engines and there is no temp gauge on these things. At least from the manufacturer. My oil temps at regular use ran between 160 and 212 f. When I would run near redline the temp would rise over 212 really quick . at 8000 rpms for only a few seconds would take the temps past 220 f . I'm guessing running over 8,000 rpms for any real length of time would take the temps up to at least 240+ , so u can imagine what 9-10k would do to the temps . That's just like my air cooled buell . it has an rpm limiter near 7k , and has no cooling fan . if the 500cc engine was able to reach 9k it would cook itself really quick. Its almost the same story with the air cooled gy6 . it being air cooled these babies have limits and heat is one of the main issues when running these engines. Yes they have a cooling fan and The oil cooler will def help the engine stay cool longer , but , I still don't see 9-10k rpm range . |
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 14, 2015 21:04:18 GMT -5
I know we all look at Kevlar as being stronger than steel , but first off , these belts are not made of Kevlar . they are aramid . if some of these belts are running metal in the belt , this is the reason for the grooves. Even if there were a true Kevlar belt , I'd expect a belt with metal threads will cause grooves before a true Kevlar belt would . Kevlar may be stronger then steel , but the steel is much more abrasive then the smooth Kevlar fibers.
If someone is running a true gates aramid belt , and it causes grooves , I'd look at a CVT issue or a very cheap variator or drive face.
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 14, 2015 20:56:02 GMT -5
The Bando Branded one I dealt with was hands down the worst and most abrasive however it could have been a fake or even made with some old steel tire belting. The sides snagged at you and felt like small needles, Wow , really ? These belts , even the aramid belts should have no material that would poke you like needles! Just like the metal threads showing on a wore out tire ? If this is the case , then this solves everything. A belt made of that type of material would def cause some big issues and def put grooves in the variator ! |
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 14, 2015 20:47:05 GMT -5
Check out the guid rail damage from the plastic v-slides breaking !  . Even with this much damage and tension causing the v slides to break , I had no grooving on the variator or drive face . If someone has groves wore into the variator or drive face , its either caused by very cheap belts" made with who knows what " and or very cheap variators and drive faces. |
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 14, 2015 20:35:01 GMT -5
I didn't even know it was happening, until Rock mentioned something about it in a thread I made about a variator failing. I went and looked at them a couple of days ago, and it is crazy how much those belts have grooved the variators. I will post pics this weekend, but the belts just wore grooves in them that I'm not sure pics will be able to show. I had issues with the guide rails shearing on a couple of variators. Do ya'll think that was due to the kevlar belts? Do you mean the plastic v-slide guides broke and the guide rails on the. Variator were cut into ? What belts do u use ? I had a problem with v slides breaking , but it was due to bad tranny bearings causing too much tension on the variator . |
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 14, 2015 20:29:23 GMT -5
Looks as if the first couple kymco 150cc scoots I saw had a redline at 8000 rpm . this is what we need to consider:
The Chinese gy6 is a cheaper made scoot engine . did this engine take the normal redline of 8k and apply it to the cheaper made engine " which is what more then likely happened " or did they actually put the cheaper made China engine through a ton of tests and determine that 8k was the redline ?
Considering it is a clone of a better made engine , I'd say they stole the redline of 8k and figured they would slap it on their dash . I think I possibly might have seen a 9k redline before , but I'm not sure what I saw it on ?
When it comes down to it I don't think i would run any of these between 8-9k rpms for any real length of time . the redline is a warning that u are reaching an unsafe rpm for the engine.
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 14, 2015 20:15:11 GMT -5
This is not a normal engine,, 9500-10000 is redline territory for this engine 7500-8500 is completely safe I would think,,, don't forget this is a handcrafted engine with premium parts,,,,,it is not the junk pile fodder Chinese mill,,, I would go by a better brand like kymco and other quality made scoots . what's the redline for these brands ? I'll check. |
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 14, 2015 20:09:41 GMT -5
I also agree 100% that crank case pressure will push oil up.the dipstick port , not the oil pump. Trust me on this , check the right way. I ran my scoot for about 200+ miles with a bad oil pump , maybe even twice as long. Yes its bad for the bearings and whatnot , but I only had high oil temps . I'm betting its more on the lines of the starter clutch , but its always good to rule out the oil pump itself. There is also a chain that runs the pump . it may be causing the noise also . the timing chain is on the opposite side so I'd expect the noise to be louder from the variator side , not the fan side .
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 14, 2015 20:04:54 GMT -5
If you leave the dip stick out of the oil fill, then turn it over. If oil shoots out of it, then the oil pump is working. It may make a bit of a mess, but that will tell you. If the oil pump isn't working, you would have locked it up pretty quickly while running it, I would think. That's not true . I ran mine with a bad pump for awhile and just had high engine temps . |
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 12, 2015 0:12:52 GMT -5
Have u checked to see if the oil pump is actually working ?
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 11, 2015 18:27:44 GMT -5
I just saw that yesterday !! I can't believe he built it in less then a month ! I liked the old one better but maybe it will be able to compete with kye Kelly .
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 9, 2015 19:14:08 GMT -5
Big chief crashes " the crow " in thhe next season . he and another racer " Chucky" Davis both roll their cars after Davis loses control and side swipes cheifs rear end . chief suffered bruised lungs , broken collarbone , and crushed L2 and L3 vertebrae. Here is his car " the crow " before and after the race ...    And some think the racing is staged. Yes there is some scripted parts but the racing is 100% real . if someone likes racing they should like the show. The crash happened during the filming of season 7 on November 14th. |
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