|
Post by ramblinman on Dec 10, 2013 6:46:03 GMT -5
seems like most are using a jet on 100cc bbk's. i have a jet on order, the largest i currently have is an main. i want to install my new 50mm bbk today but don't want to ruin it by running lean. i'm not going to change airbox or exhaust (will do when my new jet arrives) so will an jet be fine for now?
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on Dec 9, 2013 9:47:53 GMT -5
think i would go with a single wheel design. perhaps something like this: seems like a one wheel trailer would be a smoother ride, especially through turns.
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on Dec 9, 2013 9:08:09 GMT -5
2. Engine will not idle properly. When cranking it up for the first time in the morning the bike will start, but if I do not give it full throttle, sometimes feathering it if the rpms drop too low, it will just die. Once it runs for about 2-4 minutes, the clutch will engage and it will run fine as long as I am giving it any kind of throttle. If I come to a stop, I cannot let off the throttle all the way until it has been run for at least an hour or it will die. If I just cranked her up to go to the store and back, it will not idle at all. Once it has been run for any significant period of time, it will idle for about 5-10 minutes fluctuating from 2k to 1k rpm the whole time. From what I notice, the idle screw is run down all the way to increase the idle. This is a picture I took of it. Sometimes, it's hard to kick start once it has been running for awhile, sometimes it starts right up. When it does not it usually has to sit for about 5 minutes before it will kick start again. locate your air/fuel adjustment screw and turn it counter clockwise. should be on the left side, opposite of the throttle linkage. also take the time to clean your carb. i had similar problems as you the past week and was beginning to think i would never figure it out. my carb only has about 3,000 miles on it but sure enough, the jets had some microscopic blockage. yesterday i bought a $2 can of carb cleaner and spent about an hour dismantling it, spraying every part. runs like new now. as for the kick start, you may need to post some pics.
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on Dec 9, 2013 8:20:50 GMT -5
washer machine
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on Dec 7, 2013 3:57:33 GMT -5
what is the penalty for not wearing a vest if that law goes into effect? that is usually why laws are written in the first place, just another tax law on the books. of course whoever produces those vests will benefit also.
if riders want to make themselves more visible, we don't need government to do it for us.
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on Dec 5, 2013 13:10:31 GMT -5
I have a 2010 Tao Tao CYT3 50 scooter that... has over 20000 kms on it. My question is how long will these things last? think it depends on how many repairs you're willing to do. technically they could last forever if you want to repair every part as they wear out. personally i don't think i ever want to replace a crankshaft so that would be the death of my scoot. i have a 2011 atm50 with about 14,000km that still runs good.
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on Dec 5, 2013 7:00:41 GMT -5
If you can afford it, you may consider upgrading the crank. I have considered it greatly recently. My first crank failed at about 15,000 miles with a stock bore. The other four between 8-10,000 miles, and those include 63 and 72cc big bores. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, besides running it super hard at 100+ miles a week, maybe not. It's really annoying. wow, 5 failed crankshafts? splitting the case is something i'd rather not try. i've been thinking about getting a 150cc but if i can get 50+mph out of my scoot then i may wait awhile longer. my scoot has nearly 14,000km. i don't know exactly since the speedometer broke and i rode it for about 3 weeks before fixing. hopefully this old engine can handle the extra hp otherwise i will be stuck riding my bicycle to work until i get a new scoot. edit: just remembered; i've read over tightening the variator nut can damage the crankshaft bearings. maybe over torquing that nut with an impact is more to blame than a bbk. i don't know but it's something to consider. someone correct me if i'm wrong.
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on Dec 4, 2013 14:46:53 GMT -5
Don't force anything or over tighten anything i've heard everything from 12, 13, 15 and even 20lbs of torque for the head studs. which reminds me i need to get a torque wrench also. what is spec, 15? that seems to be the number i've heard the most.
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on Dec 4, 2013 13:28:33 GMT -5
Call scrappy they may send you an extra base gasket for free tell them you are part of the forum and you bought their 50mm kit and need an extra base gasket. They sent me an extra gaskets for free when I bought the 52mm kits. i sent him a message, thx 4 the idea... i was researching how to check valve-to-piston clearance. do you use the clay method? what gap should we aim for?
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on Dec 4, 2013 13:03:10 GMT -5
Use an extra gasket with that kit to be on the safe side. ok, thx 4 the info.
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on Dec 4, 2013 12:56:23 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on Dec 4, 2013 12:36:26 GMT -5
so i guess a compression tester is next on the list. thx millsc.
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on Dec 4, 2013 12:19:52 GMT -5
i just ordered a 100cc BBK from scrappydog and then stumbled onto this video:
in the comments: "bbk took out crank rod bearing 100cc bbk kits are known for this" how common is this problem? i'm hesitant to install it now.
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on Nov 20, 2013 22:26:26 GMT -5
Ramblin, What are you running? My wife would flip out if I added a tach to her scoot... i'm using three 6 gram and three 8 gram rollers. what works for one isn't necessarily going to work for you though. Alley talked me into getting a tach and i am very happy that i did. it was very easy to install. only about the size of my thumb with a digital display. well worth the 30 bucks (IICR).
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on Nov 20, 2013 15:53:18 GMT -5
install a tachometer, if you don't already have one. the advice i found online said you will get max power around 7,500 rpm. so if you want the fastest acceleration then you should install the variator weights that meet that goal. personally i didn't like revving my engine that high and the acceleration was more than i needed at 7,500. so i put in slightly heavier weights to bring my rpms down to 6,500 on take off, giving me slightly better top speed.
the clutch springs are something i haven't played around with yet. they do effect performance but i would focus on the variator weights first since that is easier. you may find you don't need to do anything to the clutch.
|
|