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Post by ramblinman on Dec 14, 2013 11:33:10 GMT -5
ok, so wd40 worked with some very fine sand paper. however i just read a comment on youtube that said over cleaner works. my old 44mm piston and cylinder still look to be in great condition. i'm going to get a can of oven cleaner for those parts.
not sure what i am doing with it yet. probably just keep it as a spare.
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 13, 2013 20:44:47 GMT -5
I think it's worth it, I believe you will notice a difference... i hope so. soon as i get it started i will feel a little better. just tried about 10x seemed like it was going to catch on the second try. if it doesn't start i'm not sure were to begin. i made way too many changes all at once. |
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 13, 2013 18:55:44 GMT -5
the other thing to check, is the Idle speed. If it's too high, it will partially engage the clutch, and glaze it... perhaps that is why it has been giving me problems. i am aware that you should set the idle so the tire doesn't move but unfortunately no matter how much i turned the idle down my tire is always in motion. maybe i should sand the pads down some more? i don't think there is much clearance between the pads and bell. A performance clutch is supposed to feel like it grabs hard... that's the point. i just don't want to break it. i don't know how much pounding this cheap clutch can take. |
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 13, 2013 18:37:06 GMT -5
just finished installing my new 50mm piston. measured my old one and was a little surprised that it had a 44mm piston. i don't know if it came stock that way or if one of the previous owners upgraded?
so i was expecting about 50% boost when i thought it had a 39mm piston. am i correct in assuming i am only going to see a 12% boost in power going from 44 to 50? meh, wonder if it is going to be worth it.
haven't started it yet. a bit afraid, lol. if it doesn't start or runs bad, i'm not doing anything else until tomorrow.
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 13, 2013 18:13:58 GMT -5
oh i see what happened. i would order a replacement. the last thing you want is that part coming loose and dropping in the engine. this is the one i ordered for my 50cc: www.chinesepartswholesale.com/product_info.php?products_id=64520i have no idea if that is the size you need for your engine. you'll have to research it or get some info from someone else. if it is the right size. i have an extra adjustment screw i could send you if you still have the nut. |
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 13, 2013 17:09:34 GMT -5
wd will loosen it up , I would get some lapping compound and lap the valves . Its quick and simple if you need some compound I can send you some pm me with your address . John worked very well, thx... lapping compound? is that for seating new valves? i don't plan to do that. at least not anytime soon anyway. |
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 13, 2013 17:07:22 GMT -5
i bought a replacement nut from chinesepartswholesale.com when i first got my used scooter. previous owner apparently lost it. i'm amazed that that nut could break. could you post some pics? perhaps someone could help you better if we are seeing what you are seeing. at the very least it will fulfill my curiosity of how that nut could break.  |
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 13, 2013 15:50:56 GMT -5
in the middle of installing my new 100cc bbk. there is about 1/8 inch build up around valves. i'm reusing stock head and would like to clean this up before i put it back together. what will break that up? can i use break cleaner or carb cleaner? wd40? idk, give me some ideas that will make this go fast.
thanks.
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 13, 2013 13:32:53 GMT -5
Did it come with the bell or did you use your old one? What size engine 50 or 150cc ? Did you replace the Chinese grease and or make sure the pivot points are/were lubed? I'm not knocking you just want to make sure your doing everything that is needed to ensure long term use. I have both size clutches and would be willing to do above stated. John 50cc. came with a new bell and i didn't add any grease to the new clutch. |
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 13, 2013 12:50:59 GMT -5
What part(s) did you replace? What people call the clutch ranges from the variator on the crankshaft to any one or two of several parts on the transmission input shaft. Let us know what you find tomorrow. It may be something broke or came loose after you installed the clutch. this is what i am referring too.  with just a visual inspection i can't see any broken parts. i'm going to sand the pads and bell, hope that solves the problem. it has been grabbing really hard which is what happened with my old clutch just before it completely broke. Depends, is it a GY6 style engine? yes, taotao atm50 Parts for Scooters is my first choice since they are local to me and have always treated me well. I have an Aprilia now but I still check there first before anywhere else as they are always expanding their product line. Will probably be ordering some Dr. Pully sliders from there shortly. Just hitting 20,000 miles and will be inspecting the sliders and belt at 24,000 for the second belt/roller service and forth regulary scheduled oil change. thx, i've ordered a part or 2 from them before. do you know a quality brand i should consider? going to try and make my clutch work for now but i definitely want to upgrade. i'll be taking this scoot on a 500 mile round trip in about 4-5 months. need to work out as many bugs as possible before then. |
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 13, 2013 1:20:07 GMT -5
i want something durable first, performance second. i just replaced mine about 1000 miles ago with a cheap one off ebay. i haven't pulled the cover yet but i can tell something isn't right. going to inspect it tomorrow.
think i only paid $24 delivered which is a great price but not so great if you have to replace every 1K miles. i'm willing to spend more for a new one if anyone knows who sells a durable clutch.
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 10, 2013 17:24:56 GMT -5
i can't tell from the pic's, maybe someone else can. best advice i can give you is to clean all the oil off the engine then make certain your gear and engine oil is topped off. ride it for a bit then try to locate the source.
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 10, 2013 13:54:38 GMT -5
I started all my bbk's with  's and they ran barely lean but not enough to overheat, or damage anything. You'll just loose a little top end speed. I have an  main in mine now with a free filter.  -  seemed too rich for my bike and made it accel slower. Buy an a9 camshaft too. Your only going to gain low end torque without it. Top speed might even drop without it. The variator weights should be about 6-7 grams. When you do a bbk, you have to do EVERYTHING or else its pointless. i'm sure i will be tinkering with this scoot for many days/weeks after install. i did buy an A9 cam i will be installing with the bbk. also have free flow exhaust that has been sitting in storage for months but not going to put that on until i get new jet. hoping i can use the stock airbox with a little modification. plan to change gears in the near future also. well, i wasted most of my day doing other stuff so not installing today. friday i will have time to do it, hopefully the new jet is here but if not i will go ahead and slap it on since you didn't have much problem with an 85jet. |
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 10, 2013 7:50:25 GMT -5
stock head? is a good starting point... yes stock head. i don't expect my new jet to arrive until later this week. maybe i will just wait to be on the safe side. i don't want to find out i am running lean after install with no way of curing the problem. meh... |
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 10, 2013 7:06:33 GMT -5
What is the best way to take the carb off and clean it? Are there any good guides I can print up and go by? here is a great video that shows how to clean and explains how a carb works. it is not the same carb as you have so some of the parts won't be in the same position (like the air/fuel adjustment screw). taking the carb off the engine is really easy. remove the 2 nuts holding the intake manifold, unscrew the bracket holding the air box/filter, remove the fuel line (assuming your petcock is working then only a few drops of fuel need to be drained into a container. otherwise you may need to crimp the line), unhook the automatic choke (you can unscrew it from carb or unplug it. i unplugged mine since the screws were too difficult to remove). you will then need to drain the fuel left in the bowl into a container. (remove the drain screw at the bottom of carb) once you get the bowl cover removed, the only thing i took out was the 2 jets. as long as the float appears to be working properly then you shouldn't need to remove the float. spray every tiny opening you see (wear eye protection and rubber gloves)). I adjusted the valves, now I bought some service manuals for this type of engine with the crank case housing, the only issue is the .003 valve feeler gauge. I went to Advanced Auto and the smallest gap I could find was .004. However, the service manual I have says to gap it at .005 each. Now I adjusted this thing to .005, put it all back together, and rode it a little bit. It seems to run fine with .005, but, I can hear the rockers ticking so I'll have to readjust them again this weekend coming up. Me being the redneck that I am looked online for the thickness of plain copy paper, and found that it is .001, now if i fold paper on itself 3 times it should come out to .003, which will give me the thickness that I need to gap this somewhat more properly. It getting dark so early really makes it a pain to work on things without a garage to work in. I may have a friend who's dad might have the right thickness, so I'll find this out sometime during the week and see if I can borrow it. As of now it starts with starting fluid, but I believe the .002 more of a gap than it should have will give me trouble starting it up. But I will try my best to manage for the rest of the week getting to and from work. Hopefully I don't have too many problems with it. i think i have the same feeler gauge. i just adjust mine to .004 and it runs great. (i think the .005 spec is for 150cc) seems like slightly loose valves are better anyway. when your valve clearance becomes tight then it is hard to start and you will lose top speed. |
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's and they ran barely lean but not enough to overheat, or damage anything. You'll just loose a little top end speed. I have an 
main in mine now with a free filter. 
-
seemed too rich for my bike and made it accel slower. Buy an a9 camshaft too. Your only going to gain low end torque without it. Top speed might even drop without it. The variator weights should be about 6-7 grams. When you do a bbk, you have to do EVERYTHING or else its pointless.