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Post by chewbaca on May 30, 2018 11:45:27 GMT -5
I would add some mass to the rollers and drop the rpm to 6000
glue and filings, solder, aluminum foil, spring pins all cheap options that can work
when it comes to belt life and efficiency no other considerations are as important as cooling and alignment
so remove the filter on the CVT cover air intake at a minimum
its bad engineering and detrimental to everything inside the CVT
no other drive belt that I know of needs filtered air
but all need lots of cooling
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BBK brands
by: chewbaca - May 29, 2018 10:58:10 GMT -5
Post by chewbaca on May 29, 2018 10:58:10 GMT -5
with 70cc 45 is about the best you can expect without better aerodynamic efficiency or boost
air drag starts to really hurt above 40
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Post by chewbaca on May 29, 2018 10:44:19 GMT -5
1
what rpm are you cruising at ?
for a fifty with a square bore max efficiency is around 5000 rpm
6 for best torque and 7 for best H power
2
The belt can really rob power if not correctly aligned and cooled down or over compressed
3
sometimes a scooter will be way over rich because of WRAAAAAR!!
on the brain
just as a reference I get about 100 to 115 mpg with a 150cc
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Post by chewbaca on May 25, 2018 5:00:36 GMT -5
the most common thing to send a scooter engine out of service is an exhaust valve not sealing. It makes no noise just poor running and then failure to start.
With back firing I would suspect a loose intake valve
a slight click or tap is common after a valve job and expected
its why they are called tappet valves
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Post by chewbaca on May 24, 2018 0:35:35 GMT -5
you should always fallow the instructions on the sidewall of the tire
whether or not your scooter book recommend a psi is irrelevant
it's the tire manufacturer that knows what's needed for that tire
to work best
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Post by chewbaca on May 22, 2018 12:21:34 GMT -5
did you upsize both front and rear tire or just the rear
because if it's both it's going to register as a slight speed reduction
do to speedometer ratio change and friction load increases
but the taller tire will give you 4 to 5 mph but wether it reads or not depends
on the front
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Post by chewbaca on May 19, 2018 11:43:41 GMT -5
a scooter is not the correct bike for that😨
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CVT Set up
by: chewbaca - May 13, 2018 14:46:40 GMT -5
Post by chewbaca on May 13, 2018 14:46:40 GMT -5
a forged aluminum bell with a steel insert!!! any chance of getting a gram weight ?
titanium would cost more I think, it's prly TiN coat if it has even anything to do with titanium at all
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Post by chewbaca on May 10, 2018 19:28:44 GMT -5
I don't find it very difficult at all to start the bleeding process
seems to happen every other time I start working on a scoot😒
yes doing one line at a time should work
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Post by chewbaca on May 2, 2018 0:45:32 GMT -5
i don't even bother with the crappie new O rings for the head cover anymore
a little oil resistant silicon on the old squashed ring works very well
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Post by chewbaca on Apr 24, 2018 16:11:59 GMT -5
I have have had pitting on a valve be full of carbon deposit so it still seals, dry up and flake away after a long time not running.
also rings can freeze up after some down time
so check your compression
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Post by chewbaca on Apr 24, 2018 15:52:39 GMT -5
sounds like a good plan good luck
one at a time for the front
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Post by chewbaca on Apr 24, 2018 15:48:00 GMT -5
good going👍
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Post by chewbaca on Apr 24, 2018 12:19:01 GMT -5
it may be a pinched or clogged brake line
or the lever has to much displacement
if the bleeder valves are loose all resistance should vanish if not its a clog
test one line at a time so you know better which line
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Post by chewbaca on Apr 23, 2018 21:47:48 GMT -5
you have a short
if you want to save your electric harnesses you have to find an patch it
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