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Post by chromestarhustler on Jun 5, 2015 15:38:54 GMT -5
well the only thing i can think of since you have replaced all the tranny parts, and its a weird one, is the crappy diaphragm on your carb has finely worn out, they stretch a bet over time, and wont raise as much, to let as much fuel and air into the cylinder.
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two word game
by: chromestarhustler - Jun 5, 2015 15:00:02 GMT -5
Post by chromestarhustler on Jun 5, 2015 15:00:02 GMT -5
opened window
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Post by chromestarhustler on Jun 5, 2015 14:48:47 GMT -5
yeah ground is to the valve cover bolt, and even with gaskets the valve cover isnt isolated,
valve cover has a o-ring seal not a pancake gasket so its metal to metal contact with the cylinder head and the cylinder studs run thru everything, it's really not a bad place for a ground several factory scooters have that being the place for the engine ground, its not like the provided an extra 12 inches of wire to move it either, thats where it was originally, thats the only place the wire was long enough to attach to and it ohms out as a good spot with my meter, never saw the need to move it.
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Post by chromestarhustler on Jun 5, 2015 13:48:04 GMT -5
its attached firmly to the head stud where it originally came off.
i guess the body needs to come off and the wire get repaired before do much else on it.
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Post by chromestarhustler on Jun 5, 2015 13:36:10 GMT -5
it was the green wire, how did you know.
just in case the next question is the body and engine ground are attached to the engine and frame.
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Post by chromestarhustler on Jun 5, 2015 13:26:54 GMT -5
when you say you checked the transmission did you also check the faces on the rear clutch?
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Post by chromestarhustler on Jun 5, 2015 12:52:20 GMT -5
BTW, didn't you used to go by "chromestarhustler"? yes this board apparently has a shorter max character, the second half of my name is covered by new dawg, lol |
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Post by chromestarhustler on Jun 5, 2015 12:39:19 GMT -5
so frankly i wasnt sure of the condition of the harness, thats why i test ran the engine, everything was good during the idle session for it suddenly to have problems after running a while when i decided to rev the engine up is the confusing thing.....yeah the entire body has to come off to check the harness, and i can rebuild the harness, just seemed odd, timing wise.
no big deal 4 of the other scooters are running i will pull it from the lineup and get around to it some day.maybe.
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Post by chromestarhustler on Jun 5, 2015 12:32:20 GMT -5
i liken it to sticking a 1050 dominator on a stock 305 over carbing it only helps at high rpm WOT when your undercammed or have a poor flowing intake/heads, using bernoulli's principle the decrease in velocity would increase intake tract pressure allowing a force fill, but velocity is the preferred way to fill the cylinders.  percent of us just cant make good use of the extra flow potential, some of it may have to do with air density differences, here at 5400 ft above sea level we only have approx 80 percent of the oxygen that sea level does and our air density is well about equally bad. Typically 57-60 miles per hour is the top speed I can tune a stock scooter to, but on a good high pressure day thats slightly cool when a storm front is pushing thru i can sometimes hit 62-65, which for a stock scooter is probably as good as its ever gonna get. well its not like these scooters are anywhere near standardized, i was comparing 3 heads the other day, to set on top of my new high compression 58.5 BBk, one head had a much smaller volume cc head, but the valves were shrouded thanks to this tight head, so wont breath as well but will give higher compression, but its intake tract was also the nicest smoothest as cast intake port i ever seen, which should have good flow, the others had a very nice plain dome and unshrouded valves that should flow well, but the intake tract looks like the rocky mountains at the transition areas. now i know the scooters these heads came off, both ran damn well....chinese variance...the bastards, now i gonna go sit somewhere and decide which one to use. |
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Post by chromestarhustler on Jun 4, 2015 23:05:46 GMT -5
i ride a lot at night and like having both beams on, some scooters have a momentary switch that fires both but who want to hold that all the time. also it uses one power wire which can overheat with the increased demand, these way it splits the load of the two lights over different wires.
most scooters use the same basic wiring for the headlight/horn switch.
I unsoldered the high beam from its spot on the selector switch and spliced it and soldered it to the horn power, which is always hot, so the high beam is always on. i flick the selector to the down position and the low beam comes on with the always on high beams, and i can see well enough to cruise these dark roads.
I kinda wish i did it the other way, set the low beam always on by splicing it to horn power, and using the selector to turn on the high beam but the headlights on the La Vie are the same watt high and low beam, i have switched it on a few scooters, but its a quick easy mod to really make the headlights suck far less.
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Post by chromestarhustler on Jun 4, 2015 21:30:32 GMT -5
personally the 30mm carbs have never worked for me, i have tried a couple on several different scooters, since they work off constant velocity, and the max volume is pretty much decided by the engine size and rpm. at high rpms the engine can not draw more air in order to push up the slide and raise the needle for more fuel, by increasing the diameter or the bore the slide has to raise less in order to feed the same volume of air, almost anytime i see a 30mm work was when someone had a carb adjusted for crap, and going to a well adjusted stock carb increases throttle response and drive-ablity and power.
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Post by chromestarhustler on Jun 4, 2015 20:20:09 GMT -5
oh so you know its a 125, so should be 54mm x 54mm, a square engine, i have seen 52.4 x 55mm
52.4mm bore is common, the trouble with the lifan is they are less standardised than our gy6 engines, but the engines are 4 speeds with clutches or clutchless 4 speeds which kinda make up for it.
but they make a bunch of different ones, so just measure your bore and stroke, and deck height and piston pin diameter, and you should be good to go, the 140 high compression kit should be stout.
wish you luck.... if you knew the brand of cart then that might tell you which variant they use.
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Post by chromestarhustler on Jun 4, 2015 20:07:55 GMT -5
hmm all this time i just been plastic welding using a old soldering iron,...
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Post by chromestarhustler on Jun 4, 2015 19:56:13 GMT -5
personally i aint having trouble shredding the little engines, shearing rods, and cracking pistons with just the right tune up on the variator and carb pushing 65 mph....a turbo in our weak rotating assembly...pass. if your bored i got a percent complete vog 260 engine you can put in whatever if you want 19 horsepower |
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Post by chromestarhustler on Jun 4, 2015 19:33:04 GMT -5
the conversion is doable, you either need the adapter since gy6 50 and 150 do not bolt in the same way or a gy6 150 engine crossmember and tabs (or make and weld your own in) other than that its a really simple swap, crap like the shock mounting gets interesting if you go from a gy6 50 short case to a gy6 150 long case. and the tanks on 50's are small, the gas goes fast feeding a 3 times larger engine.
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percent of us just cant make good use of the extra flow potential, some of it may have to do with air density differences, here at 5400 ft above sea level we only have approx 80 percent of the oxygen that sea level does and our air density is well about equally bad. Typically 57-60 miles per hour is the top speed I can tune a stock scooter to, but on a good high pressure day thats slightly cool when a storm front is pushing thru i can sometimes hit 62-65, which for a stock scooter is probably as good as its ever gonna get.