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Post by pistonguy on Sept 23, 2015 10:28:30 GMT -5
pistonguy I set it to .045, not .0045. as for the woodruff key, I have no idea where that is or how to check it. The cam chain tensioner seems fine. I honestly think I screwed something up internally preventing proper combustion. the scoot has less than 5K miles on it. The Key is on the Flywheel end of the Crank shaft Pull the cooling fan cover, remove Flywheel nut and flywheel and the key is in its slot. By +.004 or +.045, won't cause internal damage. I amazed some are telling you you junked a top end with too big a valve lash |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 23, 2015 5:53:32 GMT -5
dyoung1167 Thanks for the info! So what damage have I done? I have checked everything others have suggested and all is to par. Getting good spark, fuel, etc. I am about to pull the cylinder head next and check the valves and piston. I'm reluctant to do so as I never have, but my only option at this point. I'm thinking of buying a new cylinder head with valves and a new piston. I'm just wondering if I can simply refurbish what is already there if not damaged. This is unknown territory for me, but I've successfully changed pretty mush everything else on this scooter thanks to watching a lot of youtube vids. BTW, I have a 161QMK engine, if this would help with any diagnosis. STOP! Do NOT Remove your Cylinder or Cylinder head at this time. dyoung1167 has provided misinformation on possible damage from being +.001-.00Big Valve lash or the reverse. or even much larger. Even a Lash that is Too Tight will only just Hang Open Slightly under Operating temperatures causing her to bog down, stall and not restart till she's cool. tun as the lash closes up more difficult to No start. You stated .0045 (Big) ? thats Four Thousandths and Five Ten Thousands of a inch, that is ok or Four and a Half Thousands, same thing. Thats Not big it darn near on the money. + or - .001-.002, thats one and two thousandths, is providing that much More or Less Cam. +.001 wil Provide More Gross Cam Lift and Duration, (all the cam numbers), same in the reverse of -.001. Now that I have you confused, sorry. Did you check the Flywheel Key (woodruff key)? How bout the Cam Chain tensioner? How many mile on the 161QMK? |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 22, 2015 8:24:27 GMT -5
pull your plug and turn the engine by hand a few times and watch the valves to see that they are moving properly. if they seem to be, you may have to pull the head and check inside. those big clearances cause a lot of pressure, flow, and no flow at the wrong times. you may have bad valve seats, burnt piston, or what not currently giving you a not so healthy combustion chamber. Pressures? Cylinder pressures? im confused If so how does a extra .001 in valve lash cause cylinder pressure to go up? and then cause all the bad ju ju for the component listed? |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 21, 2015 5:37:59 GMT -5
Its a Fixed Jet Carb, It Will Run LEANER.
we recently answered this from another
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 19, 2015 16:48:05 GMT -5
I waana see her run!
RCQ were's thee oil cooler going to mount?
Like to sse pics of the intake/carb fitment.
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 18, 2015 21:28:22 GMT -5
One of these folks round here was on that team that wrote those destructions.  What do you need to know? and we do remember the Most important part of installing those Curclips right? hurry search gggl.  ATM I dont need to know anything but if I ever do,,you will be the first one I ask.......yeah on the circlips,,after they are in the groove I like to give them a spin too confirm they are snapped in...a little oil in the groove never hurt either....I use Rotella syn-blend for assembly lube on all my motors,,have it in a little squirt can ready to roll  Man its a nice day out here,,Im gonna go fire up the mini bike and let her rip for a few miles,,before we know it,,the cold will be here. BTW-Thats a great post on that other forum pistonguy,,very interesting. Thanks there Jersey. I have jus a lil expereince to offer. and bust some chops once in awhile, and I'll say the why not just the hear say just because. Clips, C'mon you got some skills. 12 or 6 O'clock Never 9 or 3,  its Not a Myth. The rest is  |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 18, 2015 10:02:33 GMT -5
Wisco has a chart on their site with a formula for all sizes and applications. All it takes is one over sized ring to destroy a jug,piston,and possibly the valves. One of these folks round here was on that team that wrote those destructions. What do you need to know? and we do remember the Most important part of installing those Curclips right? hurry search gggl. |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 17, 2015 22:15:53 GMT -5
By pm to Dm. Theres allot of redundant measurements and components to be inspected and recorded, Cylinder Prep, many are Room #101 stuff just gets stuffy including all this in a vid. Probably measure a couple hundred 60 and 61mm ring gaps and will all be .011 as seen in my pics. Same with 62-63mm Ummm So, relax and shut up, it's all good .......... ? Yup |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 17, 2015 21:23:25 GMT -5
By pm to Dm.
Theres allot of redundant measurements and components to be inspected and recorded, Cylinder Prep, many are Room #101 stuff just gets stuffy including all this in a vid.
Probably measure a couple hundred 60 and 61mm ring gaps and will all be .011 as seen in my pics.
Same with 62-63mm
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 17, 2015 19:56:25 GMT -5
Wait! P-guy, you are the resident expert on this. Are you saying it is NOT important to check ring gap when installing a new piston/jug? I forgot to on my first BBK, and always suspected the fit was too tight, leading to the soft seize I had 800 miles later. Is that wrong, and checking the gap (and adjusting it) isn't really important? I'm Jackin with joisey. Dan and I have already discussed this earlier today. www.dansgaragetalk.com/topic/254-61mm-pistons-taida-cast-vs-ncy-cast-vs-taida-forged-high-comp/I was gunna go over it but we/I covered this more in depth in the above. I might add with the Piston to Cylinder Clearance and how it relates to different Ring end Gaps. If I have .0018 piston to cylinder and .030 (wow) end gap in a 2.250 bore can't show me nuthin on a leak down, psi or dyno. Now .005 Piston to Cylinder and I have .030 gap is a Slightly different story. Other than too tight sand the ends butting together it is a Very Much Over Rated Subject.  |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 17, 2015 16:59:34 GMT -5
Enlighten us. Big gap? how big? small gap? how small? Are you asking Joisey, or is that for Martin's? Joisey |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 17, 2015 16:14:44 GMT -5
Just watched the last video and he never mentioned anything about ring end gap and clocking,,the end gap is super important especially on the compression rings...Im sure he did it just saying Enlighten us. Big gap? how big? small gap? how small? |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 16, 2015 7:42:05 GMT -5
I use old garden hose slit down the middle then put the split over the rims edge.
No more Buggered Rims.
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 9, 2015 19:51:28 GMT -5
Oh nice! Pistonguy Like Tiada
lottsa pics, spec's and data be great.
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 8, 2015 8:52:23 GMT -5
I have used gas premixed with 2 stroke oil to a 50:1 ratio in my 4 stroke once when I ran out of gas on a trip and the only options to get to the gas station were to use some of a friends premixed gas or push it 2 miles. It was a very small amount of gas, maybe half a water bottle worth, didn't cause any damage or anything weird. I would only do it in an emergency like that though, I wouldn't run with it all the time. If it was good for 4 strokes then 4 strokes would be using it already, but pistons and everything are lubricated and cooled by the oil in the pan. Adding oil to your gas will also shorten the lifespan of your spark plugs, they will foul. Ive had left over two smoke gas that went in my cars to garden tractor. no biggie and these days were at 50:-1., back in the day 20:1 Without Re-Jetting it Will Run Hotter. And I'm not going to open the can of Detonation from Oil consumption. Lets Glaze the Cylinder while were at it too. |
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