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Post by pistonguy on Oct 3, 2015 8:03:19 GMT -5
If you were off one tooth either way it would not start or run as good as you state.
Don't take it apart........
Use the Mechanic Stethoscope, a Long Screw driver directly to your ear. you can isolate the noise better that way unless you have or could borrow a mechanic stethoscope.
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smoke issue
by: pistonguy - Oct 2, 2015 11:49:58 GMT -5
Post by pistonguy on Oct 2, 2015 11:49:58 GMT -5
Does the smoke have a blue tinge to it or is it mostly gray black? Might also be time to put three ounces of a good fuel system cleaner in it (such as Berryman B12), run it until its warm and then let it soak in over night. After a few tanks you may need to adjust the idle valve on the carb. Also you may want to consider using some of Carol Shelby's ZMax to loosen up the rings and clean up the crankcase. About 4 ounces should do it. Be mindful that you put the ZMax in and ride immediately or it will just settle and treat the metal in the bottom of the crankcase and possibly release its reactive agent as a gas. You literally need to pour it in and start up the motor the moment the dip stick is screwed back on and then ride the bike for at least 15 minutes to get it well circulated and worked in along with the heat activating it. It is made to be absorbed into the metal which is why you need to run the engine immediately to circulate it and prevent it from soaking in all in one spot so do not get it on your skin as it will be absorbed very quickly. A Whole Bunch of Mechanic in a Can  RUN from Z-Max  Carol's dead as should be this crp. Not going to have gummed up rings mumbo jumbo. Most Likely the Cylinder Bore got Rusty from condensation. In this case there is No Mechanic in a can thats going to fix it. Don't waste your time or money. |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 2, 2015 6:23:10 GMT -5
1st, seems one of or the most common reason hard start as symptoms is Adjust the Valves.
As you put miles on the Valve Lash (clearance) Closes causing the/a Valve to hang one open enough to have Loss in Compression.
Not sure your thinking with 5k miles Too Much Compression. Your Symptoms are Right In Line and Common with low Compression.
You should only ever use One Head Gasket.
Did you just replace the cylinder head? or the Cylinder Say and Cylinder Head?
Tell us bout the Head? Did it start Normal with the Old Head? having a thought of BB head with jacked up cc volume handing you bare min compression?
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 30, 2015 14:11:37 GMT -5
Sure is Perty
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 30, 2015 8:00:11 GMT -5
Great. Glad to hear it  |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 28, 2015 7:20:59 GMT -5
Very nice.
one reason I own Three Honda's
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 27, 2015 8:47:56 GMT -5
That Clamping surface needed torqued Evenly i.e. criss/cross like tightening a Car Rim on a Car.
So as to Not Warp a Head, with only Four Studs is a lesser chance but hoping for the best
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 27, 2015 8:43:59 GMT -5
A Ftlb torque wrench at that low of a setting will "snap" very little, more like a Gentle Click or Bumb you'll feel.
My two Torque wrenches need be stored backed off to Zero or the mfg say I could jack it up.
Stick the thing on a car lug or something to get the feel.
Should be using a Inch Pound Wrench as it would give you better feel and Not Break Studs So Easy
What your doing is other than mating the Two Surfaces together you are Stretching the Studs.
The Studs can only be torqued (stretched) a few times before there junk, low quality maybe a one shot deal.
You Really need to use a torque wrench as I'm afraid your going to Draw up the Metal around the Studs by over Tightening Both the Stud and the Cylinder Head Nut and have Base Gasket Sealing Problems. You've already broke one.
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 26, 2015 20:31:39 GMT -5
Well, broke a stud... I used a torque wrench at 13lbs foot as recommended by someone and one of the studs snapped, so now I have to wait till tuesday to try again. Positive side I guess is I'm learning about the engine anyway, LOL I ordered 4 and going to replace them all in case I stressed the other 3 studs. so close...  thought I was doing the right thing by using a torque wrench, but now I'm afraid to try it again for fear off snapping the new studs when I get them. Oh boy hope you didn't upset the material around the studs. Cylinder Studs correct? Easy to do on this application by over torquing leads to base gasket leaks. Careful. |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 26, 2015 9:58:34 GMT -5
Phew ok
I was going to have you look at the Expander in the oil ring, the castle looking ring in-between the two scrapers.
Its easy to get the ends overlapped, will have to force it down and will smoke all the sqeeters outa Honduras if ya do.
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 26, 2015 7:01:12 GMT -5
So my cylinder and piston came today - Whoo Hoo! and I have a few questions... Firstly the ring order for the top two. both are black but one appears to have a slight bevel to it and has marking on it (R) the other is all black and has a marking (RN) which it the utmost top? I'm guessing the one marked r with the slight bevel. the second question is, is there anything I need to do to prep the piston or the cylinder, like clean it out or something? I know on install to coat both with a light film of oil, from what I've seen and read anyway. Anything else I should know? I also know to check the ring gap inside the cylinder before attaching to the piston. Markings on the top two ring will be installed up. Can you take a pic of those rings? Since you have two different rings there this is critical you get this right. Is the Bevel to the inside or outside of the ring? Is there any undercuts on the inside of either ring? doesn't even surprise me anymore of a Chinese mfg supplying product with no instructions. And actually the vendor who puts there name on the product should step up. |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 26, 2015 6:56:02 GMT -5
The cylinder should be cleaned with hot soapy water ( dawn) then dried immediately and coated with oil immediately Yes Hot Soapy Water is the Only Way. as Borg states Then spray water/moister dispersant like wd-40 or similar. the bore or it will rust in seconds. Go Really Light on all the Assembly oil. Circlip, once in the groove, Opened end is set to 12 or 6 0'clock. Never 3 or 9 O'clock. Index your Rings as in that video. If ya want to check the two top ring gaps should be Minimum .003-.004 per inch of bore. Your Min ring gap will be .0075 I will guess you rung gaps to be .011 and thats just fine. |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 24, 2015 13:35:03 GMT -5
Oh hey there, How do the Cam Chain Guides Look? any wear? i.e. grooved to deep grooves were the cam chain rides?
Lets look at Everything and more pics the better.
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 24, 2015 13:30:33 GMT -5
Thanks all for your input. I'll be putting new top end on this weekend and see if this solves the problem, although now, I guess from some posts from more experienced people I didn't have to. Live and learn I guess... What baffles me is that until I set the valve lash wrong, the scoot was working perfectly. Only after I did this, did the problem begin so I could only come to the conclusion I damaged something inside. All the electrical is near new (3 mos. ago) CDI, Spark Plug etc. Put a new stator on about a month ago due to charging issues, but nothing else had changed. Well darn it its apart. was hoping to prevent that as theres nothing wrong, but its your scoot. With a simple barn yard compression test and it would be still together. (thumb over spark plug hole). Was hoping to do the pro thing of systematically fixing your problem instead of just changing parts i.e. parts changers. Well were here. I do have calibrated eyeballs but not much to see from the pics, glad you provided them. Seem's you have parts coming so please ask questions and provide pics, ill try to help you thru and at least knowing that part your good. I want the cylinder cleaned in a specific way, the Circlip position, etc. |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 23, 2015 10:36:09 GMT -5
Yep, setting it at .045 is far too big of a gap. You likely damaged the cylinder. Just spend the $80, or so, and replace the cylinder and head. A lot of people in this thread missed that you initially set your gap WAY too big, at .05", instead of .005". I don't know exactly what was damaged, but you just need to replace the top end. New cylinder, and cylinder head, and you will be good to go. No need to try to find exactly what is messed up, and take a month to figure it out. Just replace it. Somebody teel me How from Experience one Damages a Cylinder by too big a Valve lash. Peeps sayin you've hurt something but can't tell ya What. Internt Bunk!! not going to hurt a darn thing in a gy-6 The Only thing that Will Happen with a Intake set at .045 is the Valve Never Lifted Enough to let a Charge in and it Wont Start. Period! a few got him going down the Wrong road now. |
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