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Post by pistonguy on Oct 6, 2015 10:54:00 GMT -5
The SSR Pacifica, BMS Kerrigan, and Motorino Cassini are, essentially, the same scooter - all made by Znen - love the 16" wheels! I think I may soon purchase one of these 3...  True, but I still like SSR for what you DON'T get, mainly the fake ABS that is on the BMS and Motorino.  Is that Not he same Fake ABS I have on a Sunny 150? Its just a Check Valve to prevent a Hydraulic spike i.e. fake abs. Just remove and replace with a regular Banjo bolt with copper washer on each side? ey? Thats what I did anyhow |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 6, 2015 9:47:45 GMT -5
Pistonguy your the one who claimed a silly one thousand plus horsepower GY6 not me. BTW: Maybe you thought you provided an example however I just saw some random pictures of an oil seal and a few pistons with a red arrow that supposedly had some meaning behind them but nothing with anything empirical that would go against what I've noted in about 50 years servicing small engines in various forms of commercial and private usage. Yes most times if your fortunate you just get the oil whipped up into a foam so its no longer lubricating properly leading to scoring and wear of critical engine parts and failed seals while other times in extreme cases you get worst case scenarios with damage to the oil ring or the groove it runs in. The GY6 is not a dry sump and if overfilled to an extreme can in a turn flood the back end of the piston with oil expanding the skirt causing moderate to extreme damage. Combined with wear and foaming you can end up with a deformed piston or ring that when you go to replace the oil ring the new one will be way too tight in the groove. I have seen this a number of times which is in harmony with what was in the text books we were trained on 50 years ago and with parts so cheap one would simply replace the piston and if the cylinder is not marked up too badly just hone it along with replace the seals however if the bearings and crank got galled up from running with whipped oil full of air bubbles then you may be better off replacing the engine. There are a lot of ifs out there and people have managed to do a crazy amount of damage related to extreme overfilling especially once the first event has occurred and they keep upping things to cope with extreme oil consumption since now they need to overfill it further since oil is being lost so fast they need to put in extra to make it from point a to point b. More critical in the horizontal engines I mostly service in the lawn care sector since once you face the piston toward the downside of a slope you can quickly take out an overfilled engine with the volume of oil now consistently higher than the back of the piston. I usually assign a Kawasaki 2 stroke machine for use in highly sloped areas due to this. No I Never mentioned or stated the Spark plug was from a GY-6, Its again a example of Extreme Pressures. that was 1,250hp per cal. tho Thats a pretty scenario but it Never going to happen in a GY-6, Even a High Torque starter Wont be able to Start the engine, the engine itself Wont start. The Week Link is the first to go and you'd Puff out the Starter O ring then the rest of the Oil seals and Walla the Pressure has a a place to go. With all the contradicting information on oil level we have Lots that overfill with No damage. We've seen this all summer of peeps Overfilling oil and it Puking all over, then the Peep get Bad advise that he has sufferd catastrophic damage and with No experience takes the engine apart. We haven't seen One with internal damage this season. Just a whole bunch that Needlessly took a engine apart. This GY-6 Engine/Starter is Not capable of creating pressures High enough to Distort the Piston Ring Lands. My pics weer pointing the Oil drain back holes along with some Anti,Det and Pressure Seal Grooves. We started adding some of these features on the Buick Indy pistons, sorry the detail didn't show up. Oh Kawa two smoker on slopes, cool, I prefer Looping a long rope around the handles of a Flymo. btw I try to be humble, you may not be aware, I have spent the better part of my 55 years as Field Engineering for one of the Highest end Forged piston co, in the country, the only one that does all of its Forging in house, r&d, product development, analyzing failures race support. The family of piston co. expand to four at one time so I wore all the different color shirts. Ya I'm that guy that gets Paid to go to races. |
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smoke issue
by: pistonguy - Oct 5, 2015 18:28:02 GMT -5
Post by pistonguy on Oct 5, 2015 18:28:02 GMT -5
What engines are you talking about? When you overfill a GY6 and it slaps the oil the bottom grove on the piston gets distorted, the ring gets deformed and sticks so it would be considered broken. Sometimes the piston itself can come apart at the pin. What one hundred fifty cc GY6 puts out one thousand two hundred fifty horse power on this planet? The block can take ten or maybe fifteen hp but at over one thousand horse power the thing would just fly apart. This is pure bunk and just plane silly. Pull the Pin out of the pin boss? c'mon, How? You still haven't stated the why or how. The only logical direction you could be going is a Hydraulic scenario. I provided a Extreme example of cylinder pressure on the Edge of Hydraulic and your Not going to break the parts mentioned  The Starter, even the best high torque is Not capable of Completing a Hydraulic stroke and break part and Neither is the GY-6.  All anyone is going to do, Worst Case is your going to puff out some Oil Seals. Most likely First the place is the "0" ring on the starter is going to pump. The Maybe a crank seal. I see this all the time peeps say "your going to blow it up!" what? how? |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 5, 2015 7:43:59 GMT -5
Possibly gas in the oil is the other alternative. The evap system was never a problem on my Lance and the purge tube with the vent works just fine and does what its suppose to if you drain it at every oil change like your supposed to and keep the valves adjusted. Many people can fill up their purge tube by simply refusing to let the engine warm up sufficiently before leaning in the throttle. A GY6 when the engine is cold can blow a ton of oil out if you take off when the engine is cold and lay on the throttle. Anyways a two year old bike should not have been ridden at all until after the engine and gear oil was changed along with the brakes flushed. If she just dumped it and stopped riding two years ago without preparing it for long term storage then you have to do all the prep involved with taking a bike out of storage along with take measures to deal with the improper maintenance the bike has potentially received. It sounds like the bike has been sitting without the break in oil change having been done so that along with the flushes needs to be done. Hopefully the oil ring on the piston has not been broken from riding it overfilled.   Nah, Not going to break a Oil Ring. There Stainless Railes/Scrapers with the Stainless Expander I can Twist into a Pretzell all day. Insane cylinder pressures won't break one. There are also Oil Drain Back/ Scavenging holes just below the Oil Ring to aid in scavenging.    Theres some Cylinder Pressure blowing the center out of a spark plug. Thats only bout 1,250 hp per cyl. Nothing personal just helping with the misinformation. |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 5, 2015 7:37:13 GMT -5
Possibly gas in the oil is the other alternative. The evap system was never a problem on my Lance and the purge tube with the vent works just fine and does what its suppose to if you drain it at every oil change like your supposed to and keep the valves adjusted. Many people can fill up their purge tube by simply refusing to let the engine warm up sufficiently before leaning in the throttle. A GY6 when the engine is cold can blow a ton of oil out if you take off when the engine is cold and lay on the throttle. Anyways a two year old bike should not have been ridden at all until after the engine and gear oil was changed along with the brakes flushed. If she just dumped it and stopped riding two years ago without preparing it for long term storage then you have to do all the prep involved with taking a bike out of storage along with take measures to deal with the improper maintenance the bike has potentially received. It sounds like the bike has been sitting without the break in oil change having been done so that along with the flushes needs to be done. Hopefully the oil ring on the piston has not been broken from riding it overfilled. Nah, Not going to break a Oil Ring. There Stainless Railes/Scrapers with the Stainless Expander I can Twist into a Pretzell all day. Insane cylinder pressures won't break one. There are also Oil Drain Back/ Scavenging holes just below to aid in scavenging. Theres some Cylinder Pressure blowing the center out of a spark plug. Thats only bout 1,250 hp per cyl. Nothing personal just helping with the misinformation. |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 4, 2015 5:23:06 GMT -5
Thanks everyone. Looks like its solved. I completely torn down the head again and found the two head screew on the right side of the cylinder were loose. After I tightened everything down it started much easier. Thanks again Glad to here that.  Next time have a extra set of gaskets and a Torque wrench around G'day |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 3, 2015 15:16:26 GMT -5
Oh thats Gnarly Bruh. Shut it off. So... any ideas??? I'm listening to it over and over........ and over Lets give it a few. the video is good just really hard to make a call.. |
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smoke issue
by: pistonguy - Oct 3, 2015 15:11:05 GMT -5
Post by pistonguy on Oct 3, 2015 15:11:05 GMT -5
If you don't know you don't know. Indy drivers have been using it for years however you do have to follow directions. I have seen it free up varnished rings and sticky valves resolving many issues with engines that have sat too long. It will not fix worn out rings or bores or bent/burnt valves however it does clean and free things up when used correctly. I could understand if I recommended some form of putty to coat the cylinder bore and piston to restore compression instead of a micro lubricant and cleaner that can free things up so that things can work as originally designed and intended. The last naysayer just stood there with his mouth open when the engine that he was going to have to rebuild just smoothed out and ran properly within a few minutes of our pouring a few ounces of Zmax in it and continued to do so for a good many years. It was a 16 hp pull that had been sitting on a shelf for too many years so it had a few issues with things sticking. He kept repeating that his friends said it doesn't work while standing there watching it work as the rest of us expected it to. Most reputable parts stores along with Walmart carry it. Indy drivers huh? We certainly enjoyed spending there sponsorship dollars but no product went into race cars. Methanol motors only run a rules approved coolant/lubricant additive to the Methanol itself. I'm gunna skip the issues of the slickie stuff and cylinder seal along with naming supplier corps. Hers a nice example of a Exh Valve that has had the Entire Pars Store Chemical rack thrown at it. just marketing mumbo jumba. And why would one take a engine apart and find this a some gummed full oil ring and Put it Back Together and Pour in Mechanic in a can? so one really doesn't know if or how well this stuff works.  |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 3, 2015 14:44:39 GMT -5
Oh thats Gnarly Bruh. Shut it off.
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 3, 2015 12:14:24 GMT -5
Tell us more about your about the Cylinder head.
MFG? have a part#
Ive been thru Fake BB heads. all they do is cut the combustion chamber diameter to match the BB diameter to Attempt to Maintain OE Compression ratio. I think many Lower compression ratio but I have yet to cc volume what I have here.
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 3, 2015 12:07:13 GMT -5
Compression gets up to 100 psi with about 7 kicks What throttle position are you checking it at? What about 3 kicks? |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 3, 2015 12:00:49 GMT -5
From what you indicate, Its running to darn good to take apart. Clapped out Cam Chain Guides to the point the assy makes noise I would cause inconstant tune and one would notice this. Can you Video up close? video of what? Thanks! Video with sound up close of the engine running making the noise. |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 3, 2015 10:09:42 GMT -5
From what you indicate, Its running to darn good to take apart.
Clapped out Cam Chain Guides to the point the assy makes noise I would cause inconstant tune and one would notice this.
Can you Video up close?
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 3, 2015 9:12:50 GMT -5
If you were off one tooth either way it would not start or run as good as you state. Don't take it apart........ Use the Mechanic Stethoscope, a Long Screw driver directly to your ear. you can isolate the noise better that way unless you have or could borrow a mechanic stethoscope. I had a race car mechanic listen to it with a stethoscope (Luckily one next door to where I work) he said the engine sounded fine! But the noise is driving me crazy. something is not right somewhere... and I'm afraid to drive it for fear something major is going to happen. I've checked TDC and it is fine, I've pulled the variator off and started it and it still makes the same noise, so it's not a bad roller or anything. The chain issue sticks in my head - when I was setting the piston to TDC the chain slipped off the sprocket inside the engine, behind where the variator sits. I put the chain back on the sprocket and went on my way to putting it back together. It is in THIS area where the noise is coming from. It is as if something is loose and rattling inside. Ok cool on the mechanic listen. A noise of what you explain in the internals would Most Likely caused a Failure by this point. Hold off on taking it apart..... Do a run thru check of the time chain tensioner as you looksee with the Valve Cover Off. I would think if the CamChain is flapping round in there its more then enough to jack up Cam/Valve timing and would run poorly, but on the other hand you say you quad checked the TDC Cam timing and is Correct?? |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 3, 2015 8:55:12 GMT -5
 Well Here is the Entire Parts Store of Mechanic in a Can. All just Petroleum Distillates and Marketing Hooplah. Does little to Nothing mostly Nothing but receive your wallet. This is 36 years experience on the Application alone. This would just expand enough on a hot day under load to stick open for 20 minutes or so then cool and snap back in place,start run repeat. As it did stick it still did Not Burn the valve on the flame travel side. Now the Sicking Valve does Stop it from Rotating its lil bit on every hit I have had Lots that Did burn to a Un-refacable Valve. Some even used Stelite coating on the Ex, but really didn't matter. The Above Valve and Others also enjoyed More than regular oil Changes, Dino to High End Synth, Stabilizers, Cleaners etc. And unless I'm at mechanic in a can why would one take apart a engine, finds its gooped up and put it Back together and add Mystery Oil? |
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