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Post by pistonguy on Oct 19, 2015 15:13:53 GMT -5
pistonguy got a question regarding engine break-in... what do you recommend? I know to change the oil ALOT but what about seating the rings and so on? read so many topics on this, but you seem to have a handle on these engines and would prefer to hear what you have to say... Thanks! Thanks for asking, Alott of this bs and that bs based on ol feller 40+ year ago. Ill tell and show ya the why and how. Old barbaric stone hones were used with a finish grit of 280 to maybe 400 and this leaves a Finished Peak similar to a Tip on a Pyramid. upon break in with those old Nodular Iron Rings you can see we have to Knock the Tops of those Peaks off During Break in, kinda tougher on rings and Final Cylinder Sizing and Longevity. These Modern Cylinders are Mostly Finished wit a Diamond Plateau Hone, This Hone Finishes at 600 Grit and The Peak is Knocked off to a Finished Plateau, Darn Near Ready to Race and Much Better Idiot Proofing Break In. Here are Two 61mm Cylinders one Iron Bore and the other Plated Bore (The Plate Bore MUST be Diamond Finished or touched up) kinda hard getting a good pic for ya.  ..   Here some Piston Skirt Finishes to look at, Very fine turned, These are ready to run. Side note 61mm NCY Piston on Right, NCY Cut the Skirt off with a SAW so it would clear Max Stroker applications This NCY 61MM is JUNK. Piston on Left is Taida 61mm Forging with a Slipper Style Skirt. This Piston will provide Much More Stability and Resulting in Much better Ring Seal  Your going to have to Work Hard to Hurt this stuff running in its bath of oil. There really no jageed edges, flashing garbage to wear off. Convectional Oil for Break in, Its Cooler now. Warm up the New Top End. Engine Load is the Main thing,(heat Cycling) Vary Engine Load like if your doing sprints on a bicycle. Up Hill loads are great back off Repeat, Just keep varying Engine Load and Not Be afraid. Varying Load is How a Engine is broke in on a Dyno. Here is a good example of a decent 150cc psi test.(mine) this was a No Mercy Break. 
ask anything ya need to know of the machining, tooling, materials. |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 19, 2015 15:12:49 GMT -5
pistonguy got a question regarding engine break-in... what do you recommend? I know to change the oil ALOT but what about seating the rings and so on? read so many topics on this, but you seem to have a handle on these engines and would prefer to hear what you have to say... Thanks! |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 18, 2015 13:14:21 GMT -5
Yeah, I would definitely just change the crankshaft on that old engine. I just did it. Put the crank in the freezer, and then heat the case with a torch, and the crank will go right in. Don't force it! Go with the cold to shrink the crank, and the heat to expand the case. You can use this method. Correctly it will Drop right in. Be Careful!! that the crank does not "dumb" upon seating, if it bumb's up +.00 your in trouble as the temps equalize Faster than a Hobo on a Ham Sandwich and sets in place , have it fixtured and weights ready to go. Also it Will Sweat and Rust the Bearings and Races if you Don't Spray it down Immediately with a moisture dispersant like wd-40. I have and use this method, current Team Green tech's No longer use mainly from the Sweating/Rust issue.    |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 18, 2015 5:41:27 GMT -5
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 17, 2015 16:39:49 GMT -5
May not be the exact answer your looking for This set-up is more economical as I can use for both Bench test and Scoot as upgrade. This is a Very Nice set-up made for me by DMartin. My OE Sunny Wiring Harness is pure junk. Discount the Stator upgrade for your app  Total Plug-N-Play |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 16, 2015 18:41:25 GMT -5
It cracks me up to see throttle position used as a break-in method on a CVT! Doesn't matter what throttle position you use, the engine speed is based on other factors, so even half throttle could reach high RPMs. Break it in like you just stole it, and forget all the nonsense! Correcto! Thats why I didn't even mention throttle position. Load it up a hill. like doing sprints on a bike. heat cycle repeat. won't be able to hurt the 600 finish. 1/2 throttle for 300 miles (PI'll meet with Kymco at Indy in Feb. |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 16, 2015 18:04:51 GMT -5
Nah Brah, I'm just busting chops.
Its Your Ride,
I'm big on altering engine loads as similar to Power Pulls on a Dyno. ye we broke in lots a liter class on dyne's with Brakes.
The Finish on the Cylinder is Upwards of 600 so it will last a Long Time. you gunna be happy
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 15, 2015 15:07:20 GMT -5
Break it in like you are going to run it man,,all that break in stuff is a myth,,I worked along side Bob Hannahs mechanic and he always told us to break them in hard....been doing it for over 30 years with no issues  DROP THE HAMMER!!! You worked/work with Keith? Current national race director at Yam? |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 13, 2015 19:25:31 GMT -5
75 miles into the 300 mile break in period. Torture! Rail on it No puss-n-boot's break in.  |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 11, 2015 14:56:44 GMT -5
K, cool take some pics of the failed parts please. The Crank Bearings are Pressed on the Multi Piece Crank. This can be all pressed apart by a competent Crank shop as it will need to be trued correctly know body is doing this due the Low Cost of a Complete Crankshaft OE or Stroker. Pics coming up    |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 9, 2015 17:26:00 GMT -5
Oh ya lookin good
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 8, 2015 7:10:07 GMT -5
Should I or not? Its a generic 38mm. Is it Cotton/mesh? Foam type? Most likely and Make Sure to Use Real Filter Oil |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 7, 2015 18:51:41 GMT -5
 All good, that's what she's supposed to do. And more fun begins
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smoke issue
by: pistonguy - Oct 6, 2015 15:35:39 GMT -5
Post by pistonguy on Oct 6, 2015 15:35:39 GMT -5
I have worked on and maintain small engines for many years and do know how the specified product does and does not work. The engines we use it in generally stay cleaner and have fewer problems with internal parts gumming up and sticking. Carbon on the combustion side of valve stems will not be cured such as in the case of that one in the picture you showed which was allowed to run to go way too long before addressing the issue. For getting a stored engine that has not been used in a while freed up the product works quite well. Joe Lencki was well known for his Indy engines and his Lenkite products were even used in the aircraft industries where engines see much tougher conditions than the typical GY6 thats gotten a little sticky and needs some help to free it up. My stuff generally runs for decades with few problems compared to that of others who scoff so I am doing some things right. Oh cool a power equipment guy, you should be very familiar wit the ex. valve pictured. K series. Those Hot running all Cast Iron work horses Me and a bud jack with some ol Maytag Two Stroke Hit and miss   As for Joes "Speedway Cocktail" Knowbody really used that outside his camp. Metallurgically wise theres Nothing in a Engine 40 years ago to present that is still used. I worked on Both the Aurora and Infinity programs as one of those Was Sponsored and Endorsed its use. But thats all for TV, The gear box/ transaxle/ CV joint engineer and several other stay at my house for there TMS events. Z-Max got slapped pretty hard by the FTC for fraudulent claims, they Heavily Edited Test Results, |
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smoke issue
by: pistonguy - Oct 6, 2015 15:18:30 GMT -5
Post by pistonguy on Oct 6, 2015 15:18:30 GMT -5
ly Edited Indipendt
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