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Post by pistonguy on Dec 18, 2015 12:02:48 GMT -5
Hers a couple Ex. for ideas. Expansion or Volume gained . First is a Pro-Circuit then a FMF
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 18, 2015 11:54:19 GMT -5
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 18, 2015 11:50:48 GMT -5
www.polydyn.comFrom experience. These Folks for the Coatings. Ive had some. lets say Bake the Heat Treat Right out of Pistons from the Process. Although I currently enjoy some Skirt Coatings there not really what the marketers write it up as.
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 18, 2015 11:37:55 GMT -5
I haven't gotten it done yet. First, I'm having roller lifters fabricated to replace the flat tappet lifters. Baisley HiPerformance is doing that work. Then I'll have a new cam ground to take advantage of the roller lifters (faster lift and seat, slightly longer open time). It'll also be ground to get rid of valve overlap. That'll hurt cylinder scavenging, but improve fuel efficiency. The custom expansionary exhaust I'll build will reflect a negative pressure pulse back toward the exhaust valve just before it closes (at 6500 RPM, the engine speed at highway speeds). Thus, the cylinder will have a partial vacuum locked in it. When the intake valve next opens, that partial vacuum will help to pack more air into the cylinder by aiding in getting the air's velocity up. Then I'll have a new connecting rod fabricated, with an offset big end. This will increase mechanical efficiency on the power stroke and reduce piston side-loading force. The new rod will be stronger than the OEM rod, so I can extend the rev limiter from 9,200 RPM to 11,000 RPM without worrying about sending the connecting rod through the crankcase. I'll order a new OEM crankshaft, and have it and the connecting rod cryogenically treated, micro-polished and coated with tungsten sulfide. That'll make the metal less prone to stress fracture, and reduce friction. After that's all done, I'll have it balanced. Then it'll go in the bike with the hybrid ceramic bearings I ordered from MicroBlue Bearings. Along with the new crank and conrod, there'll be the new head with roller lifters, a new piston, and a new cylinder. The new head will have the combustion-chamber-facing parts of the head and the exposed parts of the valves coated with ceramic by Swain Tech Coatings. The piston will get WPC treated all over, inside and out, to remove stress risers and form a hard outer layer in the metal. Then it'll get MicroBlue tungsten sulfide on the piston skirts. Then it'll get Swain Tech ceramic on the piston face. The new cylinder will be WPC treated, then coated with tungsten sulfide to reduce friction. The piston will get a Total Seal gapless top ring, and will run the OEM oil control ring and second ring. The rings will also be coated with tungsten sulfide. That should make the engine run much more smoothly, give it more power due to lower friction, increase fuel efficiency and make it last much longer. But an active balancer would make it butter smooth. I might have to end up making my own... I'll have to source mercury... it won't take a lot, just 15 milliliters, which would weigh about 200 grams. That should be plenty to balance our small engines. I suspect they manufacture the whole thing, balance it, drill a tiny hole on the inside of the tube, inject the mercury with a syringe while the tube ring is positioned such that the hole is horizontal, then seal up the hole by brazing. Hold the tube vertical with the hole at the (inside) top, the mercury goes to the bottom of the tube, so no mercury fumes while brazing. When it's spinning, there's no interaction between the brazed hole and the mercury, since the mercury is flung to the outside of the tube, and the brazed hole is on the inside diameter. Thus no possibility of leakage. Some list of custom parts there toolate. Question, are you reducing overlap and staying with oe compression Ratio or Reducing that also? In my experience I think you will find that TiN coating on the Top Two rings works Very well or Better than The Tungsten. Better Rings can be sourced from NPR here in the States if ya know were to look, Total Seal can mod to gapless for ya. Lateral Gas Ports on the Piston to Compliment. offsetting the Big end of the Rod is Tricky, if Ya want to Reduce the Rod Angle and or have a more favorable Rod-Stroke Ratio. Stuff a +.125 Longer Rod in there, Straighten out the Rod Angle, Easier on the Cylinder Wall and Piston Skirts, Piston is More Stable thru its Entire Stroke keeping the Rings Square resulting in Superior Ring Seal. Also Adding the Piston now has a longer TDC and BDC Dwell Time and a Custom Cam Specs Wold have to consider this. And another With a +.125 Rod LOOSE the Second Ring pack, Knock 28 or more Grams off the Piston. Hera ya go. lost Second Ring Pack. Lateral Gas Ports, Shot Peen Stress Relieved. Stuff a long enough Rod in there and all ya need for a piston is a Ring Holder. Ya can't tell from the pic its running a .5mm offset on the Pin.
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 16, 2015 8:20:38 GMT -5
Not much to see there. How many Miles on her? Probably Ready for CVT Maintenance ,Repair or Replace. Gunna have to Take Both Apart to Inspect Clutch Shoes, Springs Etc. Gotta put hands and eyes on. Clutch Shutter or Shake upon Engagement? Take a Picture of Your Spark Plug Color and post please. understanding your situation, if it runs good and smokes a little, Ride It.
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 15, 2015 16:29:01 GMT -5
Having a looks at some of the Off the Shelf Aftermarket I don't see too much problem at all Raising the RPM Limit a few Thousand RPM. Given Correct Valve Springs and a Cam that Made Power to that Newer Limit. There Plenty of Material on the Taida Pistons to run over 10K. Here is Both a Cast and Forged 61mm, Neither Piston will Break at 10,500. Disregard the NCY on the Right. Heres a Stroker Crank. I Did check this on the Truing stand and is under .001 run-out. The Rod IsMore than Adequate Material on Both the Big and Small Ends. Could Weld the Crank upon if it made ya Feel Better. I may do a few things in that area. lighten or forth Taida Forging on Stroker Crank. Plenty of Material on the Bottom side of the Pin Bore Taking a Hard look at these Hard Parts. Now at the RPM stuff being said I like My GY-6 Sweet Spot to be 6,400-7,200
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 15, 2015 16:16:29 GMT -5
There are really only three things to take into consideration when discussing redlining, piston+crank mass vs alloy strength, bearing limits, and valve float. On a gy6, the main issue is valve float up to redline, then crank mass, then bearing limits. If you want a super gy6 to redline regularly, you will need to have stronger valve springs. Engine age and normal usage also are important factors. An engine that is babied all the time will suffer most when redlined due to a lip that forms at the end of the piston ring travel. An engine that is redlined, or close to it, often will not have such a pronounced lip edge. This lip edge can break rings when pushed on a babied engine. Partially correct on the Valve Springs. The Main Problem I see with the three sets I have and my oe is the Valve Spring Windings on Both the Inner and Outer are going in the Same Direction. This goes Against Everything Ive ever learned on Valve Train Harmonics. The Left is a Pair off a 61mm Big Valve head, Center is Taida, Right is the Ti Spray Coated NCY all Windings Going in the Same Direction. Here is just the Taida, I have Not Measured Seat Pressure Yet but this Apperas will Be More than Adequate., Simply adding a ton of Spring Pressure Brings about another whole set of issues. I will Most Likely Not Use any of these and as there is Allot of 5mm Valve Stem Valve train around Match up to a Set of PSI springs that have the Windings Going Correctly in opposite Directions. . These Conventional Linier Wound Springs has a Normal Natural Harmonic Frequency, that in Operation will find several coils grouped together up next to coils extremely stretched out. This Pattern Will Travel up and Down Similiar to that of a Slinky called Spring Surge Action and is Our Enemy. in a Attempt to try to Control the Harmonics, There MUST be Dual Springs with Opposite Windings with the Idea Being to Cancel "tune Out" each Others Negative Frequencies.
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 12, 2015 19:02:21 GMT -5
Okay awesome man thank you. I hope its in the 700$ range... He only had a couple new Sym 150's. and we know the NC requirements for a 150 over a 50. Sorry. W&W here in Randleman has Lotsa parts and occasionally some new Sym's Ill check with them also.
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 12, 2015 7:14:43 GMT -5
www.alliancepowersports.comHere is Sym USA A Descent Scoot Lots of them around here. I'm going to the Market this morn will take some pics and get a price for ya.
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 11, 2015 17:44:37 GMT -5
These are great suggestions but in the Piedmont-Triad market a descent pre-owned Fiddy is Non Existent.
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 11, 2015 7:07:12 GMT -5
Yes ive got one already i bought used. She runs good but makes clicking noise during idle.. When she warms up at idle white smoke comes out the muffler... Runs good like i daid but dang i want to get another just to be safe and have more parts!!! Im driving in 40 or less degrees in north carolina but i can handle it!! Could i switch out the ten inch times on my new scoot when i get it for the 12 inch ones on my old one?? It would look mean!! Just hope they send me a good one.. Never dealt with txpowersports but shipping is free!! There are Brand New Symm 50's at the 311 Flea Market on Saturday and Sunday. Bout 45 miles from you.
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 2, 2015 7:58:09 GMT -5
Here is the Rear Assy. Showing the Brake Lever Wear Indicator and the Corresponding Pointed mark on the Hub. Yes Lube The Points were the Cable Comes out, And the Pivot Point Shown. Holding a Rag underneath with left hand Spray down top soaking up all the excess with rag. And Keep that Rear Return Spring, Pivot Point and Cable End Treated ALL the Time in this Nasty Weather. you can also see the wear indicator and pointer on the brake lever. Yes it has been cold and rainy in the Piedmont for a few days. you had to ride so there is a chance of Trash Mixed with Water in the Rear Drum Actuator assy,
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 1, 2015 14:22:46 GMT -5
Hey gang, I think you guys missed the mark on the response. Florida never said he was seeking performance gains, he's just wanting his carb facing forward... A lot of people do this with Ruckus's.... There's a company called CompoSimo.... They manufacturer a plethora of intake risers, spacers and clocking flanges. Florida, this is a link to the product I suspect you want. Angled clocking flange Running a forward facing carb, and having problems with how high the carburator sits? Some carbs have a problem when angled too high in the front, and this can cause the engine to not run right, and have problems feeding fuel properly! Before (Without Flange): After (With Flange): This flange also turns the carb in more to the center of the bike so that when running a fat tire setup, the carb doesn't hit the frame, and when running a normal wheel, having the carb centered gives the bike a much nicer look... It also more importantly angles the carb down a bit so that the fuel can sit more level in the bowl, and you can have a much better running motor! Na. I had the idea you got the Part. Awsome!
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Post by pistonguy on Nov 30, 2015 21:23:32 GMT -5
I saw a thread somewhere in which the poster put a three foot or so intake manifold on facing forward. It ran up towards the front fairing, and was calculated to give a resonance boost supposedly. Unfortunately my search-fu is weak, but I'll keep looking for that thread. I would think that a 3' intake runner would give you some really slow throttle response and jetting it might become a nightmare. Just a thought on the drivability of the thing. Just a thought. This will depend on the Diameter of the Runner From Front to Rear. A Large Bell up front with a Taper to the System will work fine. (Ram Air) I came up with this set-up (copied a bunch of ideas) for a 385" Long Rod Stroker. Large Bells Up Front. a for real ambient temperature ram air system.
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Post by pistonguy on Nov 30, 2015 21:15:52 GMT -5
Sorry tire says rim 3.50❎12 so i guess 12,s Snit, if the tire say 12 you got 12" Bummer bro Sorry bro wish I could help more.
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