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Post by pistonguy on Dec 27, 2015 7:19:47 GMT -5
Video, still getting same 30psi compression  Not gunna start or get a test when its like in the video above. need to hear back from this Guy hopefully with good news. |
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 26, 2015 18:09:36 GMT -5
We'll yes and no on my builds I come across wrong on My GY-6. I want to ride, Not work on a 10hr Grenade. well, every 10 hrs. I mentioned my sweet spot is 6,400-7,200 rpm If we pick a off the shelf cam they make the Bulk of there Snots from 6,500-8,500 rpm, Maybe. I'm in the Meat of hp and torque for Maybe 2,000rpm. So were Do I want that 2,000rpm Power Band to be for My Riding? 8-10K rpm, 6-8K rpm? Paying closer attention to some detail will Mostly provide Longevity and Durability. Spin the Rotating Assy. True and Weld Crank. Lighten if ya want, for single crankshaft it isn't that much $$ to do this. can go further in Straightening out the Rod Angle for the Strokers. Sort out some Proper Valve Springs. So now I make the meat of power from 6,500-8,500, ok with the Mods mentioned above I have assurance that I could run 8,500-9 grand all afternoon, park it and do it again tomorrow. Im not interested in doing that, probably never will, but could if I wanted to without a concern. Would you feel call comfortable running it between 9-10k for 10 miles straight ? I think we all have the same concerns about high rpms because we have no real data on if the engine will hold up and how long it will last running a scoot tuned to hit that high of an rpm. That's not the only issue . if a scoot is tuned to hit 10k , then even takeoffs will be in the 9k range or higher . so the scoot will have a normal running rpm between 6-10k rpms ! Just to hit 40 mph you will be in the 7-8k range . the weights needed to hit those rpms would be around 6-8 grams depending on the cc's of he engine . at 20mph you would be around 5-6k rpms! Its starting to sound ridiculous to even try it , lol. Maybe if you had a 232cc engine , then you can use heavier weights to reach the 10k range . maybe 10 grams , that way you can be around 40 mph at a lower rpms and so on. We have to remember that these variators need a certain weight to be able to push the belt up the face. They were designed to run between a specific rpm . so if we tune the CVT to hit the 10k range. , we would look pretty funny screaming down the road at 20mph rpms sounding like a crouch rocket , lol. Yes, with the little more attention I mentioned. CVT logistics aside thats under 10 minutes at 70mph. Thats has Insurance Built in. I don't see anything that Shows me It couldn't and live to do it many more days. |
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 26, 2015 17:58:26 GMT -5
I could use a Perfect Front (Thrust Face) pic, From what I can see the are No Sings of Any Seizure.
Lotsa Trash Impregnated into the Thrust Face.
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 26, 2015 17:54:03 GMT -5
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 26, 2015 17:51:25 GMT -5
Look at the Pictures of the Old Piston Again. what i posted was from my own experience, right down to the tapping noise and dragging starter. my engine died of excessive heat, the thing was so hot the block was smoking, the oil dipstick was partially melted. i'm amazed it ran after that. but it did, and i put many miles on it afterwards. what post are these pictures in? BTW, the crank journals in the 244 are roller bearings, not bushings. Your Symptoms aside. What the Piston look like After Any Seize. yo have your Old Trophy around to post up a pic? A Classic Cold Seize. Yes it did run enough to limp home.   |
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 25, 2015 16:06:12 GMT -5
1 year old 150cc gy6 taotao powermax 5k miles gets used about  miles a week Ok so was driving to work, all of a sudden started to lose power, slowed down and shut off. Picked it up later at night, still doesn't start. I had heard a slight clicking or tapping sound the night before it broke down, so I thought the valves were maybe too tight, but thought if that was the issue it would have started after a few hours. this is a classic symptom of a soft seize. these are the exact same symptoms my 244 had went it died, and it dies at WOT due to lack of coolant. in other words it died of excessive heat. after i got it home displayed the same starting issues, the starter would go for about a half turn then drag, go for another half turn and drag. i changed the oil in it, and then let it sit for 2 or 3 days while i repaired the cooling system. after about 3 days i got it started and the engine and starter seemed fine. the above symptoms mentioned by the OP is not a starter issue, but an engine issue. of course, this doesn't mean the starter isn't bad, but there is no indications in the OP that it would be. Look at the Pictures of the Old Piston Again. |
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 23, 2015 15:37:56 GMT -5
Well I saw this coming. a shame Couple things. Thanks for the pics, they help You have replaced the Cylinder and Piston assy and NOT the Cylinder Head or "Head". From the pics of the Old Piston could use one from the Skirt Sides, Front and Back. (Thrust Faces). From what I could see looked like Allot of Trash went thru the Motor, thats all that stuff stuck in the Piston Skirts. Although Not Good will Not cause your Motor to Go South and Lose Compression the Way You Described. A Valve Issue Will. Along with the New Cyl, Piston Assy a Typical "Top End Re-Build" will and heck, Must Include a Valve Job, New Valve Springs, Seals and a close Valve Guide Inspection, I have Little Faith anymore in sourcing a Local Valve job, Complete New Cylinder Heads are Cheap. You Need One with the Milage you stated. In the back of my mind has always been it need a valve adjustment and has been continually Adjusted and Checked on Overlap Stroke. I hope Im wrong there. that'll give ya bout 30 psi Thanks for the response, so what I'm gathering is I also need a replacement head  Should I also replace the rocker arm assembly? Sucks that what I replaced didn't work but it was a great learning experience At this point Yes, pony up. If your Compression test is Correct this will complete a Top End Re-Build. A Decent sealed up GY will have about this for PSI.  I got in on your issue late I would have recommend this Cylinder Head First and or in the Addition to the new Cylinder and Piston Assy. |
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 23, 2015 15:33:13 GMT -5
Video, still getting same 30psi compression If Thats all that Starter is Doing thats Not Happening. Can get a test or start it that way. Interesting. |
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 23, 2015 11:11:15 GMT -5
So very disappointing, the top end rebuild seemed to have no effect on the problem What do I do now? Another question, if you look at the rockers closely the small letters are upside down when installed. This is how it originally was, I'm curious to know if they have a top and a bottom? Or are they interchangeable? Also i still found the Freewheel to be a bit difficult to spin to set TDC In the videos I watched they span pretty freely but mine has decent resistance, is this the root of my problem? Well I saw this coming. a shame Couple things. Thanks for the pics, they help You have replaced the Cylinder and Piston assy and NOT the Cylinder Head or "Head". From the pics of the Old Piston could use one from the Skirt Sides, Front and Back. (Thrust Faces). From what I could see looked like Allot of Trash went thru the Motor, thats all that stuff stuck in the Piston Skirts. Although Not Good will Not cause your Motor to Go South and Lose Compression the Way You Described. A Valve Issue Will. Along with the New Cyl, Piston Assy a Typical "Top End Re-Build" will and heck, Must Include a Valve Job, New Valve Springs, Seals and a close Valve Guide Inspection, I have Little Faith anymore in sourcing a Local Valve job, Complete New Cylinder Heads are Cheap. You Need One with the Milage you stated. In the back of my mind has always been it need a valve adjustment and has been continually Adjusted and Checked on Overlap Stroke. I hope Im wrong there. that'll give ya bout 30 psi |
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 21, 2015 20:13:44 GMT -5
Looks good, have no experience with it, wonder if it lives up to the hype. I hope there at the Indy trade show coming up and Ill score a free sample, try it then let ya know if id pony up $13.  - $29. or so. |
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 21, 2015 18:36:46 GMT -5
I think my main concerns with running the engine at that rpm 8500-10000 rpm at any length of time , considering you would be running all out constantly , would be : I have yet to hear of anyone doing it and posting any results like oil temps or how long the engine lasted compared to someone running no higher then 8000 rpms. And also I can get the same speeds at 8k then one could at 10k so why do it ? I would just have some pretty justified concerns. I would never do it unless I had a donor engine to run it at those rpms for extended periods , or if I had the extra cash to test it out . True tis, I haven't seen a posting or in a search. Your concerns are More than justified without looking into the below. What Does Surprise me is am I the Only or First One who Notices the Valve Spring Windings going in the same Direction? Ive only been around these a couple years and it JUMPED out at me. All these Cranks out of the Box, No Warranty No Return and you Don't put it on a Truing Stand? Know body Spining the Rotating assy, True, Weld Crank? it don't cost that much. Throw some Rotating or Reciprocating parts on the Scale. Source a Tapper Wall Wrist-pin vs the Heavier Straight Wall. Just the lighter Weight Piston assy alone??     Tis is just a little bit of home work, Measure Everything and good Choices. Ta heck with 10K how about a 7,400 rpm Bullet Proof GY-6? |
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 21, 2015 8:08:01 GMT -5
Have I seen Your Scoot out front at Willhoites on a Thursday eve's?No, That's pretty much the chopper crowd with money... Anyway, with diabetes, my bar-hopping days are behind me... LOL! We'll have to get together one day and take a ride! Ride safe, Leo You must be near my "hood" around Grapevine. That pic of the mouse is across the street from "Golden Corral"... More my speed these days! I can have a beer once in a while, but not enough to really enjoy it... Getting old is NOT for the young... LOL! YA for sure, I'm from keller Gotta bench race on our old Kart days. Found some old number plates and Pie Plates from my Drag Bike days.   |
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 20, 2015 8:16:48 GMT -5
Having a looks at some of the Off the Shelf Aftermarket I don't see too much problem at all Raising the RPM Limit a few Thousand RPM. Given Correct Valve Springs and a Cam that Made Power to that Newer Limit. There Plenty of Material on the Taida Pistons to run over 10K. Here is Both a Cast and Forged 61mm, Neither Piston will Break at 10,500. Disregard the NCY on the Right.  Heres a Stroker Crank. I Did check this on the Truing stand and is under .001 run-out. The Rod IsMore than Adequate Material on Both the Big and Small Ends. Could Weld the Crank upon if it made ya Feel Better. I may do a few things in that area. lighten or forth   Taida Forging on Stroker Crank. Plenty of Material on the Bottom side of the Pin Bore  Taking a Hard look at these Hard Parts. Now at the RPM stuff being said I like My GY-6 Sweet Spot to be 6,400-7,200 P-Guy always comes up with the most interesting and informative comments around! Here is the difference, PG: you build for race, and tear your engines down after every run. I'm looking for a balance that will let me avoid a tear down until Obama finally leaves office - whatever century that is. My family driver car is a big body BMW. Probably will do 140 or so if I wanted; never tried on that car. But at highway speeds (75 to 80) it cruises along at 2,000 to 2,500 RPM. SWEET! I'd love to get SuperEngine configured so I could still reach a reasonable top speed on those rare occasions I wanted or needed to, but under normal conditions cruises along at 55 or 60 at about 6,500 RPM. I might WOT the thing at takeoff - just because I hate being passed - but normally just want to cruise along with the flow on this rickety Retro thing. We'll yes and no on my builds I come across wrong on My GY-6. I want to ride, Not work on a 10hr Grenade. well, every 10 hrs. I mentioned my sweet spot is 6,400-7,200 rpm If we pick a off the shelf cam they make the Bulk of there Snots from 6,500-8,500 rpm, Maybe. I'm in the Meat of hp and torque for Maybe 2,000rpm. So were Do I want that 2,000rpm Power Band to be for My Riding? 8-10K rpm, 6-8K rpm? Paying closer attention to some detail will Mostly provide Longevity and Durability. Spin the Rotating Assy. True and Weld Crank. Lighten if ya want, for single crankshaft it isn't that much $$ to do this. can go further in Straightening out the Rod Angle for the Strokers. Sort out some Proper Valve Springs. So now I make the meat of power from 6,500-8,500, ok with the Mods mentioned above I have assurance that I could run 8,500-9 grand all afternoon, park it and do it again tomorrow. Im not interested in doing that, probably never will, but could if I wanted to without a concern. |
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 20, 2015 7:21:05 GMT -5
The 121 at rush hour is Gnarly to say the least. ya got some Nads Chopper
Pistonguy...
I'm afraid my nads are a little old and not so macho these days... LOL! The handling of the old Mouse made it an enjoyable ride, rather than "white-knuckles"... LOLOL! I felt like the snail hitching a piggyback ride on the turtle... "WHEEEE!"
If you haven't seen "Minnie Mouse" it's undoubtedly the fishtail-exhaust that does the trick!
She's a great old ride!
Ride safe!
Leo
Have I seen Your Scoot out front at Willhoites on a Thursday eve's? |
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 18, 2015 16:22:27 GMT -5
Well, guyz and galz,
I finally proved (at least to my nasty self...) that small wheels are absolutely "OK" at highway speed... to my satisfaction anyway...  The VESPA guys were right all along...
A few days ago, it got to a nice 65 degrees, and I ran some errands on my old 250 Kymco "Minnie Mouse". It was rush hour on highway 121 with all traffic doing their best impersonation of "Mad Max" running from "Humongous" and his crew...
Cresting a small hill, I suddenly found myself on a long, L-O-N-G smooth downhill grade of about 2%... So, I snake-danced across 6 lanes into the domain of the big dogs. OOOHHH... That SWEET downhill experience!
Full throttle, all 19 ponies stretching their legs, those little 12-inchers turning 6K rpm+... a sedate 8,500 rpm on that weird bar-graph tach, and the old digital speedo began its climb toward the "impossible"... 65, 70, 75, 80 (normal WOT on the flat) then  , , and finally 99... (an actual 96 mph)... Even pushing that big old windshield, the mouse was really "hauling the mail"! But I ran out of downhill before I could coax Minnie to "do the dime". Probably never will. Oh well, the shop manual lists her top-speed as 70 mph. Fooey!
I suppose getting a well-worn 8-year-old, carbureted 250 over is a pretty sweet Christmas present, even if it DID take a long downhill run... LOL
I backed off on the throttle a tad, the variator did its thing, and the revs slowed to 7,500, and the speedo held strong and steady at ... an actual 92 mph (the handy max speed rating of the little 12" Shinko up front, and the Michelin out back).
I settled back in the seat and actually RELAXED while keeping up with the fast-lane guys for two miles! What a treat! I was only passed by a crotch-rocket, a soccer-mom in a big SUV and one rattle-trap 1960's pickup truck, all doing WAY over 100 mph... The ride was rock-steady, smooth as glass and the + "cruise" was as nice as any bike could offer.
All good things come to an end, and so did the 2% grade... Minnie Mouse hit the level road, and slowed to 80 or so. Honking horns and screeching brakes behind me, and vehicles blasting by on the shoulder, giving me my Christmas birdie reminded me to get the heck back in the slow lane where I belong...
But... I DID learn that 12" wheels shod with good P-rated tires, and well-balanced are just fine up to any speed one might want to run a scooter at... AND, I learned that a mile of downhill grade is as good as an extra 20 hp... LOLOLOL!
Come next spring, I've just GOTTA switch to heavy sliders... Even a few more mph are always welcome!
Ride safe, and enjoy those small-wheel scooters as fast as they will go!
Leo (back to TOO COLD to enjoy riding) in Texas The 121 at rush hour is Gnarly to say the least. ya got some Nads Chopper |
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miles a week
- $29.
,