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Post by pistonguy on Jan 31, 2016 19:07:56 GMT -5
Oh I forgot it's a 2013 genuine Stella,,,150cc ,,weak ,,,no power,,,but not for long,,,as for the bike in my avatar that's a 02 Ducati s4 monster with a 916 desmoquatro engine I put together a couple years ago,,,a serious bike indeed ,,,I did quite a bit of work on that one,,,extensive Ti parts list ,,0-100 times in the sub 6 second range even with my fat on it,,,I could go on for a few hours on that bike,,,just the exhaust was more expensive than the Stella ,,,but I got off the hyper exotic roller coaster ,,too hard to get parts,,,too expensive,,,crappy mileage,,,couldn't keep rear tires on it,,,, I Gotts some Cheese for the Wine your dishin. Waaaa, I can't keep rear tire on it what are you in Iowa? Millage? Uhhh dont that have all that Corn Ethanol stuff in Iowa? I fully support the Fuel and Rubber Mfg's
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Post by pistonguy on Jan 31, 2016 19:07:00 GMT -5
Oh I forgot it's a 2013 genuine Stella,,,150cc ,,weak ,,,no power,,,but not for long,,,as for the bike in my avatar that's a 02 Ducati s4 monster with a 916 desmoquatro engine I put together a couple years ago,,,a serious bike indeed ,,,I did quite a bit of work on that one,,,extensive Ti parts list ,,0-100 times in the sub 6 second range even with my fat on it,,,I could go on for a few hours on that bike,,,just the exhaust was more expensive than the Stella ,,,but I got off the hyper exotic roller coaster ,,too hard to get parts,,,too expensive,,,crappy mileage,,,couldn't keep rear tires on it,,,, I Gotts some Cheese for the Wine your Sipin. Waaaa, I can't keep rear tire on it what are you in Iowa? Millage? Uhhh dont that have all that Corn Ethanol stuff in Iowa? I fully support the Fuel and Rubber Mfg's
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Post by pistonguy on Jan 31, 2016 7:39:16 GMT -5
Hate the Suspension and Mushy Frame. At 37 0r 40 + bikes to date these are the Worst on the Planet. Downright Dangerous with a Hot Rod Motor and Stock Suspension. I have these Forsa Nitrogen Shocks to Mount. the Bottom is larger Dia. and will have to use Hoca bracket to re-locate shock or Butcher the Case.
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Post by pistonguy on Jan 31, 2016 7:36:54 GMT -5
Suspension and Mushy Frame. At 37 0r 40 + bikes to date these are the Worst on the Planet. Downright Dangerous with a Hot Rod Motor and Stock Suspension. I have these Forsa Nitrogen Shocks to Mount. the Bottom is larger aid. and will have to use Hoca bracket to re-locate shock or Butcher the Case.
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Post by pistonguy on Jan 29, 2016 16:09:05 GMT -5
Yes, good stuff from Piston Guy! Just holding the Hoca cylinder in my hand, and comparing it to the cheap cylinder, the thickness of the cylinder is obvious. The material is superior, also. Those Taida BBK'S look good. Does Taida make stuff for 50cc scoots? I looked and looked, and could not find any, so I went with Hoca. Piston Guy, what is your experience with Hoca? Do you like their stuff? Yes, the Hoca product appeared to be very nice quality. I have not held one of there pistons in hand to date, I May assumes they are using the same Casting supplier as I have bothe Taida and NCY with KBF cast in the top of the piston. Taida Forged on Left, Taida Casting Center and NCY Casting on the Right, Both Castings are by KBF shop.martinmopeds.comThis guy is US Taida Distributor, Ping him for specific.
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Post by pistonguy on Jan 28, 2016 7:40:44 GMT -5
From the Product that I have held in my hand Taida is Top of the line. Who is the Supplier for the Taida Product? Ive seen Many 61mm No Case Bore with the Iron Sleeve and Bore a Perfect Circle OFF CENTER. A reason all this no bore junk is so cheap. Your concern over the Sleeve Flange thickness. Sorry I do not have the all Important Measurement of were in the bore the Wrist_Pin Center line at BDC the Piston Location is in the Bore that may cause a concern in Clapping out (Egg Shape) the bore. This Should NOT be concern with a Stock Stroke Motor, The Longer the Stroke with the Stock Rod length the Harsher the Rod Angle (clapp out a bore, egg shape). From what I see the Cylinder shown is a 61mm Plated Case Bore. See the Flange at the bottom the same color as the Aluminum Cylinder with a Black Flashing over the outside may 1/4 inch down? that's Flash Over from Plating. Is k if the use a file pic for reference and you get the correct product. Here are two 61mm Bore Cylinders, Case Bore Plated Taida on the left, No Case Bore 61mm on Right. In a Large Stroker app (more than+2mm stroke) the No Bore 61mm Flange is Scary Thin.
Click on the pice, yo can see at the bottom of the flange how much More Material there is in the Case Bore. Also note the Iron Bore on Right has the Same Color (Iron) from top to bottom of the flange. You can see the Flashover from the Plating on this Taida 61mm Case Bore Cylinder. . A Magnet Will NOT Stick to the Superior Plated Bore.
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Post by pistonguy on Jan 8, 2016 7:25:39 GMT -5
Thank you for the ideas, but I think it's taunting me at this point. I put the stock starter back on with an extra jumper cable for the ground (can't have too much) and did a compression test- 180 psi. So it definitely isn't that (which someone mentioned before, I suppose I could have checked it before creating a post!) It suddenly didn't seem to struggle to turn over. In fact, after the pressure test, I put the plug back in and it started right up. go figure. Even started without the jumper cable ground. I wish I was making this up, it wouldn't barely turn over for ANYTHING the other day! I wish I knew what was holding it back before?!
Thanks to everyone for your quick replies and helpfulness. Good Job. Now Enjoy
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Post by pistonguy on Jan 7, 2016 21:38:35 GMT -5
where is ignition timing at start up? Is it kicking back or real sluggish at first compression stroke? Some talk about an extra gasket, I'm not 100% sure on who what where. John Look into the Above First. Then Before you Take Anything Apart do a Compression Test. Here is a Stock Motor with a Stock Starter. Get some base numbers before surgery. 60mm bore with a +1mm larger 61mm Head, larger volume will drop the comp. some, I don't know what mfg piston your using? Got Pics?
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Post by pistonguy on Jan 4, 2016 12:51:40 GMT -5
Alright so hooked car battery to starter, no change spins, stops. Spins stops Ok when you Roll the Engine over By Hand, Complete 360 Rotations with the Spark Plug Out and Belt Off what do ya feel?
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Post by pistonguy on Jan 2, 2016 6:32:14 GMT -5
Getting this thing dialed in. Running 12gr Dr. Pepper sliders with the ultra low ratio gear set and GEH's full-NCY clutch. If the engine is punched it will climb into the mid 7K range (~7,500 or so) .... but at 1/3 or so throttle it cruises along nicely at 55-60mph, the tach at 6,500 to 7K. For me, that is just about where i want things. Your Combination, Motor (and theres a motor combination in itself) , CVT, Gear and the Cam your working with is darn near as good as it gets. 55-60mph at 6,500-7,000 at 1/3rd Throttle, your into the meat of were the Torque is, and there at 6,400 min should have Lottsa Snots wrapping the throttle and getting outa traffic. A very nice Oil Cooled, Large CC GY-6 Scoot.
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 31, 2015 14:22:15 GMT -5
it seems that i not only do not know anything about scooter registration, i also do not know anything about scooters either. enjoy your ego massaging circle jerk guys. Well ya are still in Classroom #101 on the Definition of a "Piston Seizure" or any material seizure. man I aint been called a Circle Jerk, hmm well since I drove in Circles I guess. kinda like it
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 27, 2015 17:49:34 GMT -5
I didn't state you said to fix it with Emory. Since you stated you had a Cold Seize I Incorrectly Assumed you Confirmed with Parts in Hand and Knew The Definition of Any Seize Hard or Soft. missed a point my bad. I thouhg My pics of Seizures would help Any Seize, Hard, Soft or anywhere in-between the Piston is Destroyed and Non Repairable. If operator continues catastrophic engine failure will happen. www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/SeizureHope another defining Seizure helps. If Any Seizure happened to your machine it just didn't go away with no apparent engine damage. A Seizure alone Is Severe Engine Damage. the only reason i mentioned my situation is because the symptoms were similar to the OP. it was a warm day, and i was running WOT down some back roads. came to a stop sign, and when i got stopped i noticed a faint tapping or ticking type noise. i assumed i would need to adjust the valves when i got home and off i went. at this time the scoot was probably drained of coolant. i got maybe a mile further down the road, and the engine wound down and quit. i tried to restart it but the starter would spin normally then drag. i raised the seat to have a look, and i knew as soon as i raised it, it was bad news. the heat was unbelievable and the block was smoking. i felt the radiator and it was cold. i checked the oil, and i noticed the dipstick was partially melted. i push it about a mile to the next house where i left it. a couple hours later i finally got it home. tried to start it again, the same thing with the starter. at this point i didn't have much hope of it ever running again. i got the cooling system all patched up, and got it back on the road. the only thing i can figure that saved that engine was the roller bearings it uses for the crank journals. so, instead of going into all the above dialog, i call it a soft seize. that pretty well implies running an engine so hot it dies. that is a different animal than running an engine without oil. Your Symptoms aside. verbiage needs to be Technically correct when offering Diagnosis and advice on engine internal hard parts I provided a link to define a Seizure for you. whatever type. A Seizure in any form needs to be called and defined what it is. Was no need for me to go on the Many different ways to Seize a Piston A Heart Attack taint a Stroke right? Since your machine started up later, never put hard parts in your hands and rode happily ever after you have no idea what happened. I don't have and can't find a name for that. Gremlins
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 27, 2015 13:05:58 GMT -5
I did Fail to mention in this lil pup bathing in Oil. In a Sever over heat close to a Seizure will Cook that Compression Ring and it will Collapse 60-80% Ive had rings Weld in the Groove, Stick, Cool, Pop Out but Only to Be Collapsed by the number above. ya wont have snit or greatly reduced compression. And Don't think ya can get by by trowin on a new ring cuz again Heat Treat (Temper) is now gone from the piston and will pound a hole thru that puppy before the end of a twenty + 2 moto.
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 27, 2015 12:52:30 GMT -5
I'm helpin bucktwenty with a misunderstanding of what any type of Piston Seize is, That's what a piston guy does. Ya can't fix it with Emory Cloth, Heat Treat Removed will do it again in short order. i'm just telling you the symptoms i had, and i called it a soft seize. i didn't mention ANYTHING about fixing it with emory cloth. what would you like for me to call it? I didn't state you said to fix it with Emory. Since you stated you had a Cold Seize I Incorrectly Assumed you Confirmed with Parts in Hand and Knew The Definition of Any Seize Hard or Soft. missed a point my bad. I thouhg My pics of Seizures would help Any Seize, Hard, Soft or anywhere in-between the Piston is Destroyed and Non Repairable. If operator continues catastrophic engine failure will happen. www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/SeizureHope another defining Seizure helps. If Any Seizure happened to your machine it just didn't go away with no apparent engine damage. A Seizure alone Is Severe Engine Damage.
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 27, 2015 7:57:10 GMT -5
Your Symptoms aside. What the Piston look like After Any Seize. yo have your Old Trophy around to post up a pic? A Classic Cold Seize. Yes it did run enough to limp home. mine would only turn about a half rev then drag through the rest of the cycle. i tried to start it immediately after it died, and twice more, once when i got it to a friends house, then again after i got it home. same symptoms. i never tried it again until after i repaired the cooling system 2 or 3 days later. i didn't expect it to start, but it did, and i put a lot of miles on it after that with no apparent engine damage. I'm helpin bucktwenty with a misunderstanding of what any type of Piston Seize is, That's what a piston guy does. Hard Seize, Soft Seize, Cold Seize and all the others has Moved Material, Smeared or Scuffed, the Material Became Liquid. The Heat Treat has Also Been Removed and Any Piston Once this Happens, will be Butter. It Will Not and Cant Fix Itself. Ya can't fix it with Emory Cloth, Heat Treat Removed will do it again in short order. Here is a Hot Rod Piston Seizure, Oh and this Piston has the "Wont Seize, Last Forever" Skirt Coating. The Seizure Started on the Opposite Corner and Commonly Pushes the Piston into its opposite Corner and Seizing it there. Yes this Tech. Did try to Spiff Up with Emory and Didn't Last thru the Warm Up.
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