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Post by pistonguy on May 30, 2016 20:23:42 GMT -5
No not a Dumb Q.
I really need to se a picture of old and new.
There are gasket compositions that you do Not want to Woller out.
Lay the aftermarket over the OE and post a pic. along with how it sits on the head etc.
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Post by pistonguy on May 30, 2016 15:42:20 GMT -5
Looks normal to me. Broke down a couple dozen engines in the past year, only seen this sort of thing on engines with vacuum leaks while running rich. Since you blew the spark hole out though you plan to replace the head anyways right? I'd check the intake for leaks, looks like the intake burned hotter than the exhaust somehow. Ya got that backwards. he's lookin good for 7,500 miles The Intake Valve is Always the Larger Valve, Getting a Cooled (one source) intake Charge Hence the Darker Color. The Small Valve, the Exhaust Valve Get Hit by the Blow Torch and thats why its Tan to White. Very important is Both Valves also transfer there heat to the valve Seats for Cooling. This is much over looked in a proper valve job. |
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Post by pistonguy on May 30, 2016 15:30:13 GMT -5
After 7500 miles, I finally had my first breakdown on my SSR Pacifica 150cc BN157QMJ-3. Blew the spark plug hole out. I just tore it down, and will be replacing the head with a new one from Scrappy's tomorrow (they are closed today for Memorial Day). Upon removing the head and inspecting it, I found it was a horrible casting job, lots of rough edges and a couple of voids, so I'm not surprised the plug blew out (no indication of cross threading, and I hadn't removed the plug in months). $40+ for a helicoil kit + tap vs $60 for a new head, no brainer to replace rather than repair. Another thing I noticed was the valves are very differently colored now, and I don't know if that's an indication of other issues, ( pistonguy what do you think?): i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff362/JerryScript/Scooter/20160530_120446_zpsmbm4o19v.jpgI know I've been running rich, but that's on purpose since I do ride on the freeway for my work commute, and didn't want a lean condition causing damage. Nah Brugh, your looking good, Normal Difference in Color and you have 7,500 on her. just fine Remember, the Exhaust (exaggerated) port is Blow Torch, we cool it with fuel and heat it with air. Bunsen burner is all. The Exhaust Valve will always be a Tan to White color and its just fine, There is allot to do in color with the fuel and oil your running. The Crp on the Intake Valve is "Coking" more than running to rich, very normal. Lucky I have a Big Block Chevy Open Chamber Heads on hand. This BBC has LOTS of miles on her, and the color difference you see is normal and just fine.   |
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Post by pistonguy on May 30, 2016 9:08:11 GMT -5
I should also add the simple explanation of "Spring Rate"
Spring Rate (for example only) would best be described, A 100 Inch Pound Rate Will Require 100 Pounds of Force needed to Compress the Spring One Inch.
So your Stock OE Shock has a Much Higher Spring Rate than the one on the Nitrogen you just bought.
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Post by pistonguy on May 29, 2016 18:58:31 GMT -5
Well then you Waaay Under-Sprung.
You can do the compare with the shocks on the floor with you on your kneees overtop the shock and Bounce and or compress the shock with both your hands on the top. You feel the difference in Pre-Load and how much its Sprung.
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Post by pistonguy on May 29, 2016 8:14:04 GMT -5
The Shock does the Compression and Rebound Dampening, the Spring is what you need to look at but first. Is the Shock the same length from Center to Center of each Eye? Show a Picture of the new and the old side by side. What is the Difference in Diameter of the Coil's themselves? and or again Post a pic of both new and old shock. If the length is the same your Under-Sprung that all.  On a real bike there is a "Sag" of the rear end. on Sport or MX'rs this is Very important adjustment. The Clickers you see only adjust compression and rebound. for example purpose only, if I was 20lbs lighter or heavier I would need to use a different spring to make the Suspension work correctly. I'd be "Over-sprung or "Under-sprung.  |
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Post by pistonguy on May 27, 2016 12:43:28 GMT -5
You say you haven't run it since last october... You have more than ignition issues now. Clean out the carb and the fuel lines and the tank and replace the gas, possibly add some Seafoam to the tank before putting gas into it to get it headed into the gas lines first to keep things clean. Once you have done that you should go back to figuring out the spark issue unless you can confirm for sure that the gas is okay and running though the system without obstacles like solidified gas jelly. In my experience 2 months is enough to completely mess up an entire fuel system, you have gone much more than that. You may have actually already solved the spark issue but lacking enough gas due to clogged lines could be the issue now. These rides don't like it when you don't pay attention to them, they are like bad girlfriends, if you don't ride them once a week or so they get upset. Brugh, I know you trying to help and such but before we send someone much less experienced into tearing into his carb before he verifies anything then I see So Many screw something up that was Not Broke to begin with and never gets it running. all because of Bad Advice. Jeez, leave the dmn plug in there and give it a Wiff of Ether, If it pops you just figured out ya got spark and no fuel without having to do all this or get your hand dirty. |
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Post by pistonguy on May 24, 2016 11:33:49 GMT -5
Safety Switches ar either Normally Open Or Normally Closed.
Most Likely Normally Closed, Unplug it, Don't run? ya just figured out if its Normally open Or Normaly Closed, make a jumper wire to hook to each end of the plug.
Or on the road ya can stick a paper clip in there. Or cut and strip both wires and twist them together. To Complete the Circuit. that is all the switch on the kick stand does is complete a circuit.
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Post by pistonguy on May 24, 2016 11:24:56 GMT -5
Damn I just realized last night on my way to work the shock currently on my scooter has one end eye and one end clevis. The eye at the bottom seems to be removable though and it appears all the same ones with clevis mounts are also removable. Have been searching all night for a clevis mount for the RFY shocks or for a site with parts of the shocks but can't find anything. I had a suspicion when you inquired what end was up and what went down. |
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Post by pistonguy on May 24, 2016 11:23:18 GMT -5
 I like my bbk boss... Maby I just should go fro some Forsa non gas....I want's no trouble? I don't think it would make much if a any difference at all over your stock Shock. |
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Post by pistonguy on May 23, 2016 22:10:40 GMT -5
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Post by pistonguy on May 23, 2016 22:05:11 GMT -5
Ha, I remember when you were talking about doing that, P-Guy. So .... you ended up taking a dull hack saw and chopping up the casting? Nah, I save the Butchery for down the road, I ended up ponying up for those re-locating brackets. Done the fitment and only some riding for impression. WAY Over-Sprung for the way there mounted but Mucho Better Compression and Re-bound. These things are Skeeeeeeetchy, I don't think I would try one on a Cyclops   |
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Post by pistonguy on May 23, 2016 19:51:13 GMT -5
 Post up the Pictures of your Fitment and final mounting |
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Post by pistonguy on May 23, 2016 19:43:53 GMT -5
I mounted these Nitrogen Charged Forsa, just slightly above a waste of money on this rickety Sponge Bob Chassis. The Larger Reservoir caused some mounting clearance issues and am only in the Rider Testing stage if I will keep them on.  Note "Mystery" Bleeders. they have them anodized a different cool color to get our attention.  |
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Post by pistonguy on May 23, 2016 19:30:15 GMT -5
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