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Post by pistonguy on Jun 16, 2016 6:45:20 GMT -5
here we go 125 is on the weak side schools will teach 150 is the best . I would like to see you compression Gage test to prove what you said. I have 4 years in school trade and 25 years and auto trade. I don't believe it. Yes 125psi is on the Weaker side but plenty to fire right up and run. These will run on less. This ol Maitag will wash your clothe all day at 90psi.  I have no reason to snit talk this stuff, I have too much hands experience to be told otherwise. Pistonguy eats and sleeps cylinder seal Pistonguy conducts Technincal and Sales seminars for my customers national sales teams. I teach your instructors. Im the Factory guy they call with a question. I work in the field with Factory team's on there engine programs. we meet, ideas, put it to the Cocktail napkin, turn into a CAD program and were making chips. Other than the Piston development for the bike you see I also generated the Piston and Connecting Rod Skulls and Crossbones decal you see on the fender.  Her is a nice Unobtainioum Piston wipped this up for Factory Yam. Oh Oh a Four Stroke Piston with only Two Rings? how we gunna make that seal? 
This is my current Scoots PSI. A NO Sissy Breakin and she's sealed up pretty well
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 15, 2016 20:10:36 GMT -5
Let me see does you finger tell you what PSI you getting because you need at least 150 psi and most of the time you need to crank engine over around 3 time min. My finger does not tell me the psi. I will attempt to crank it over. 150 minimum psi is incorrect. She will run and start just fine on Much less. purr like a kitten at 120 psi. fire up and run even closer to 100 psi. |
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 13, 2016 22:29:14 GMT -5
Love it when a plan comes together.
Are you working with stock OE intake, snorkel air box?
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 10, 2016 5:56:37 GMT -5
Yeah, after I adjusted the pickup coil to where I was getting enough VAC, the plug is now sparking. I'll drain my fuel and at least open the carb, and inspect for gunk. Thanks a heap you guys. ALSO: I use starTron fuel stabilizer and it has enzymes that break stuff down, so hopefully I haven't jellied. I am very familiar with Stratton in the Power Equipment industry. Stratton works very well. you should be More than fine. Power equipment sits around not being used more than anything. |
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 7, 2016 17:55:34 GMT -5
Nice!
Taida 61mm product is very high quality.
I look forward to the results on that Blue Beauty.
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 3, 2016 12:36:55 GMT -5
I left the whole genuine Keihin thing out just to keeep simple Good Point, and All should know the real deal.  |
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 3, 2016 8:13:54 GMT -5
That looks fine. Bolt it on, twist a screw and ride. |
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 3, 2016 6:45:19 GMT -5
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 2, 2016 10:08:45 GMT -5
I am certain that you mean .004 inches and .005 inches not mm right? I will go ahead and check the valves to at least get them within spec, if they arne't already, i don't believe them being out of spec would cause low end bog like what i'm getting though. Yes, you are correct Inches. .004" & .005" |
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 1, 2016 8:45:29 GMT -5
#35 is the correct size, They don't range much, biggest idle jet I've ever seen in a carb even on a larger 150cc was only 37 and the smallest I've ever seen was a 34 on a moped from the early 90s... The mechanics behind scooters really haven't changed for over 50 years. Acceleration is not part of the idle though, the diaphragm in the "acceleration pump" and the needle/needle diaphragm are responsible for acceleration and above idle. The main jet is responsible for about 2/3+ of the throttle. Idle jet is only responsible for idling. By the way you describe it, it could be the needle diaphragm. Check for cracks, tears, dirt or hardened/dry diaphragm. C'mon man lets get this guy started with correct information. The Pilot jet and mixture screw sure do have a lot to do with acceleration, They and the others Transition into the next circuit and supply fuel with just a smaller percentage. Here is a good diagram and there are a ton out there of the same thing showing throttle position and how much each circuit supplies fuel, You can clearly see the Pilot and Mixture screw are still doing more than we think at WOT.  Each Circuit must be correct to transition into the next circuit, if the Bottom end aint right the top never will |
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Post by pistonguy on May 31, 2016 22:48:43 GMT -5
I want to add to what jerry said. Did you adjust the A/F mix screw? Close it (turn it all the way in clockwise) Turn it out 2-3 turns (counter-clockwise) It's getting close to summertime, so you want to run just a bit on the rich side. Brent, at www.49ccscoot.com has a great guide you might want to take a look at. www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.htmlThank you Brent. ----------------------------------------------------------------- tortoise (the post below mine) has nailed it. Do that frist then go for the carb. (I got'a stop riding my 2 stroke..... well no, i kinda like to go fast.) You gave him wrong information. You do NOT want to run rich during the hot weathersummer! Disregaurd his message please that's false, unless you wan to foul plug after plug and build up tons of carbon deposit on the top of your piston... Summer tuning = LEAN Winter tuning = RICH Never tune too far, just tune until the RPMs start to drop THEN turn back about 1/8-1/4 of a turn. The reason we tune rich in the winter and NOT in the summer is because the density of the air, and the amount of oxygen and other stuff in the air is higher, so obviously you have to tune to have more gas int he winter to counter having more air. Density of air in the summer is less because heat expands the atoms in the air which make each atom drift away from each other slightly and in total has less air because of the fact the density makes air take up more space. Ok lets Throttle this Way back. This is just plane silly. This is a CV carb, the Most Forgiving Carb on the Planet, a cave man can work this. Thats a reason there on a Ped. Set it and Forget it. Ya gotta be way out to lunch fouling plugs on a 4-smoker and the whole Carbon build up things is much over rated problem on tv created by marketing slime bags like Me to sell you all kinds of Cleaner Chemicals that you don't need and do nothing. Advising to run Lean Or Fat anytime of year? or anywhere anytime is just silly again. Gunna try to keep the air density thing simple, keeping in mind were working with the set it and forget it CV carb, Theres no darn reason on a Ped we need to go out and re-jet for Cold Winter or Hot summer. On the Oxygen thing, as a certified Rescue Diver also Certified in Nitrox Mixed gas to 42%, Nitrogen is my enemy, other than the Navy dive tables I were two computers, I DIE if I don't pay attention.On Nitrox (Oxygen Enriched Air), I have a Depth limit, If I exceed this limit I go oxygen Toxic and I go into Oxygen Toxic convulsions and DIE. I'm intimate with AIR Air is Air, Up there, Down There, Over There. Round Numbers for example is Air is 79% Nitrogen and 20% Oxygen with trace gases making up the difference. That remains the same in cold or hot high or low, thick (dense) or thin. Air Density is also greatly affected by temperature and Humidity, Yes a Cold Charge may be a Denser Charge and May take more Fuel but also keep in mind that Fuel is also Cold and is Also Already a Denser Charge, so you really need to set it and forget it keep it simple. Hot Rod tip, make one at home, did this back in the day, We call it a "Cool Can" Run a bunch of Fuel line in Coils inside a can and fill it with ice or Dry Ice, hence a denser fuel charge.  |
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Post by pistonguy on May 31, 2016 22:16:57 GMT -5
I would keep it simple and just get a stock replacement. Yes there dirt cheap. Very Good Idea. I like simple. And Above all the Ethanol is Very Corrosive to Aluminum, you can clean your brains out with cleaning cocktail's and you will Never Get the Corrosion out, its done and junk. My Methanol Motors had to be Flushed with gas after every use or my nice Alky carb was junk in one week. |
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gy6 problem
by: pistonguy - May 31, 2016 21:27:08 GMT -5
Post by pistonguy on May 31, 2016 21:27:08 GMT -5
weajef , tortoise , crawford , scootdoggydog I want to thank everybody for the trouble shooting help,but I found the problem. It was the needle for the diaphragm, the "e" clip on the needle popped off so the needle remained in the seat. Got that all back together and it now runs properly. I luv to hear a success story Good Job! Now Enjoy |
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Post by pistonguy on May 31, 2016 18:39:59 GMT -5
Got the new head and gasket from Scrappy today. While I was there, I had them pull out a BBK jug to check, standard jugs do fit the BN157QMJ-3, 54mm stud spacing, the head is non-standard, it's taller. This means I should be able to use one of the drop in NCY 61mm BBKs! Got her back together, took a test ride, all is good, back to smilin and ridin! Good Info Buyer beware of the NCY drop in 61mm kit, i dunno if there all that way but Mine is. I have one, and they cut the Skirt off the Piston to clear a stroker application. This Piston is Not usable. unreal they did this NCY piston is on right. Taida 61mm on left with skirt in tact showing the chopped off area in Red  |
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Post by pistonguy on May 31, 2016 8:21:22 GMT -5
Yes you need the correct Spring on there
It does suck bro already dumping $50 and having to source a spring and install it
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