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Post by pistonguy on Apr 23, 2017 9:19:28 GMT -5
Your end result is one of Complete lack of Experience and understanding what your doing. Thousands of us have had very successful Intake and Exhaust mod's. My mod was very successful gain in acceleration and mph along with mpg. 1st. the notion that you can buy one main jet and end up with Correct Jetting is Absurd, You will need Several Main's and Several Pilot jets and a Needle Jet clip position change to obtain Ideal Jetting, Hard to find any two Scoots that will take the exact same jetting. 2nd. On the Exhaust, there are many good vendors out there, Do your research and Pick up the damn phone and confirm fitment and if its a Free Flow System maybe too loud for you.
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Post by pistonguy on Apr 22, 2017 19:28:18 GMT -5
Interesting input pistonguy , thanks for the wisdom. I actually just tried the compression test with a tester from AutoZone and it reads about 150 psi. So Harbor Freight makes a TERRIBLE (no surprise there) compression tester. I just left my spark plug adapter at my apartment in Long Beach and Harbor has a great return policy and sells a compression tester set that comes with the proper adapter. So there you have it, I found the missing 100+ psi (though it still isn't *perfect). Now we are going to play around with the carb to see if we can enhance performance. Fantastic!!!!!! 150psi is good. I know if it aint broke don't fix it but I'de really like to see new gaskets in her. I love it when a plan comes together!! Cheers!!
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Post by pistonguy on Apr 22, 2017 19:25:26 GMT -5
If one has Not Experienced Bar Slap on a Scooter I'de would venture to guess one has Never Taken there Hands off the Bars and Sat up or Better Lean Back. its the weight bias. I have Michelins on my Scoot and love them. does this mean i can add about 25-30 pounds to my forks and it will make the bike (step through scooter) more stable? the steering has always been "tight" on my ride, and maybe that's why, to offset wobble. i never considered tread pattern when i purchased tires, just the size. I wouldn't go so far as to say that as I/we haven't had one on the Scales to see Exactly what the Weight Bias is. Ideally the weight mass need to be centrally located for a 50/50 weight bias. You can also demo straight the bias on a standard Bicycle, take your hands off the bars and lean back, the bars will slap. its the nature of the beast. Understanding what the Scooter is the Bias really isn't a issue or problem that needs to be addressed, its a Scooter Not a Moto GP bike. I love my Scooter for what it is and isn't.
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Post by pistonguy on Apr 22, 2017 9:03:29 GMT -5
If one has Not Experienced Bar Slap on a Scooter I'de would venture to guess one has Never Taken there Hands off the Bars and Sat up or Better Lean Back. its the weight bias. I have Michelins on my Scoot and love them.
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Post by pistonguy on Apr 22, 2017 8:41:49 GMT -5
Why would it matter new valves old seats? I can't replace the whole cylinder head. The grinding compound made the valves sit real nice and I followed directions from several sources. I don't know how else you would expect to seat them if you didn't use compound. The cylinder wasn't bored out, we did a measurement to check and the new rings fit. Also put some oil in the chamber when doing a compression test and it only increased the pressure by 5psi. The only thing I didn't do was get new gaskets so that is the next step. Stupid of me to forget to order them. Also I am using a crap compression reader from Harbor Freight so I am going to rent one from AutoZone tomorrow. Thanks for the input. I'll get some pictures. Nothing wrong with New Valves and Old Valve Seats, The Seats need to be Cut to a Precise Angle. The Valves have already been ground to a Precise angle, Upon start-up they will hammer home to a near perfect vacuum. Nothing Else needs to be done... Anyone how thinks that lapping or using grinding compound will make a proper Valve job better is Grossly Mistaken and Flat out Wrong. A Valve Cools itself Thru the Seat,When one Lapps or Worse uses Grinding compound you will make the Valve Face Concave and Now it Only Seals and can Cool in a upper and lower thin line as again the Face is now concave, This can be easily demonstrated by running the engine with lapped valves and the take it back apart, I can put a straight edge on the Valve Face and see Light in the middle of the face area were it is now Concave, The Valve cannot effectively cool itself and the seal is not very good. There is No Car,Bike,Tractor,Truck manufacture in the World that Lapps its valves at the factory, the reason why is above. Its just a bunch of old timer butchers that teaches you guys to lapp valves, monkey see monkey do. The only reason they still sell compound is fools still buy it. it can only be used to very lightly check your margin,I prefer to use machines Dye. I have spent my entire life working for a high end piston mfg and as of late a very high end Valve mfg. all we do is F-1, Cup, MotoGp etc, all Ti and some related components of Beryllium Copper seats, Ti retainers and cotters . What was the Piston to Cylinder clearance in mm or inch? What was he Ring end gap in mm or inch? Post up some pictures. Good Luck.
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Post by pistonguy on Apr 20, 2017 21:21:24 GMT -5
Hey everybody. I bought the 91 Honda Elite 80 for $200 from a dude and man has it had problems. Currently, I am working on my power/compression. Manual says it should be around 199psi, my gauge is reading about 45psi. It will reach 45mph, but it really seems like it should have a little more kick to it. Kinda slow with two people. I replaced both valves a month ago and grinded them with compound to (hopefully) seat well. I just replaced the piston rings with a new set. I have moved the timing chain over one tooth and it didn't make a difference. My gaskets are old but seem to not have any cracks or problems. It is also an old spark plug but it still works. Tomorrow I am planning on taking the cylinder apart again to see what I can find but I don't really know where all that pressure is going. Any ideas? Did you use New Gaskets? Who and How did you Hone the Cylinder for the New Rings? have someone Competent Measure the Piston to Cylinder Clearance. The Bore/Piston may be clapped out and the new rings did nothing. Arr.rrrg, new Valves Old Seats and you used Grinding Compound, there Junk Now. Have a Competent person do a Proper Valve Job and Don't use Lapping/Grinding Compound. Your really going to need to find out why you only have 45psi Take and show me some pictures of the Piston and Cylinder etc.
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Post by pistonguy on Apr 20, 2017 16:48:04 GMT -5
Upping tire pressure won't overcome the basic problem with scooter handling. Rear weight bias is so severe from the configuration it slants everything about the handling. Review the video where the Kawasaki blows past and away from the BMW C 650 on a twisty road. The best scooter in the Country couldn't keep a 650 twin in sight. Ask yourself how bad it would have been had the bike rider been on a 600cc Crotch Rocket like a CBR or Ninja 600. You are 100% correct on the Weight Bias "Bar Slap". of a Scooter. What maybe 70/30 or 80/20, with a passenger even worse. Im getting curious enough to put mine on the scales and see for real the Weight Bias. I used to open up my hand, lean back and the bars Slap between my thumb and Fingers, thats maybe 6-8 inches apart, was just for the fun of it. any of my passengers were freaking out.
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Post by pistonguy on Apr 19, 2017 20:09:06 GMT -5
Ran into this guy on the road A Very Nicely Engineered Ride. A Three Cylinder Kubota Diesel. That is a nicely engineered ride ,,,the only bummer is it looks like he cut an Indian scout to do it,,,maybe he just had a roller laying around with no mill This dude was a country bumpkin with mad skills, told me he just collected parts from swap meets and flea markets, got a idea the the Pinger was born. very nice work!
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Post by pistonguy on Apr 18, 2017 16:27:29 GMT -5
Id actually ride this Kubota Diesel Pinger. Those other Morfs are a sorry arse joke
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Post by pistonguy on Apr 18, 2017 16:25:38 GMT -5
Ran into this guy on the road A Very Nicely Engineered Ride. A Three Cylinder Kubota Diesel.
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Post by pistonguy on Apr 17, 2017 22:04:06 GMT -5
I would imagine a Option will be a Three Point Hitch and PTO to run the Tiller or Brush Hog.
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Post by pistonguy on Apr 17, 2017 19:32:55 GMT -5
The plan has been if ya can hang around some of these guys enough hopefully they'll rub some Magic on ya. Got Some!!!!
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Post by pistonguy on Apr 16, 2017 22:57:17 GMT -5
Some of me Glory days. This is Correct Rider Position, One finger Clutch, Braaaaaap!
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Post by pistonguy on Apr 16, 2017 21:27:10 GMT -5
It could be because Pedrosa is a NAFOD (no apparent fear of death). Huh, that pretty good. Actually Pedrosa is like 5'2 and 112 lbs, Camier is 6'2" and 174 lbs, everything else the same a smaller rider simply cannot transfer enough weight to the back of the bike to keep the bike stable in these braking situations. A riders weight should be centralized as best as possible, just as the bikes Components are. this means that, in a transition especially, you'll want to keep your head and chest low to the tank as possible, rising very little as you flick the bike from left to right-or visa versa. its Not so Much Weight you have its Where You Place it! understanding weight distribution techniques does not mean its ok to live on burgers and fries. however, knowing how to use your body's mass to your advantage on the track can pay huge dividends over the course of a lap. similarly, while Street Riders Need Not to worry about leaning off excessively to put their weight as far inside as possible, Weighting the Pegs Will Help Hold the Line Through Canyon Corner and Should be taken into Consideration. Transferring Weight Under Braking Can Also increase Composure and Safety on the Road as Well!!!
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Post by pistonguy on Apr 16, 2017 18:50:08 GMT -5
50/50 bias, A Race/Track bike that just happens to have lights on it. Show off 😆 Ever wonder why we don't see Dani Pedrosa make a late braking pass on riders like Leon Camier? Hmmmm? Theres a reason they call her a Fire Blade.
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