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Post by pistonguy on Aug 29, 2017 7:41:36 GMT -5
I put the 11g sliders in today and it does launch a little better. Still need to look in to trimming the clutch weights but if I don't find anything I might just throw the red springs or yellow springs in to see what happens. I'm launching at about 5700rpm now. K cool your going in the correct direction.
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 28, 2017 17:59:43 GMT -5
Btw what size Wheels on your Scoot?
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 28, 2017 17:58:36 GMT -5
Again I will provide the link to my ankle biter setup. You can see my pictures with my setup I have just a Speck of my marker left on my bels climb. .158 Loss in belt climb = Loss of potential mph www.dansgaragetalk.com/topic/686-ankle-biter-nibbi-clutch-ncy-vari-upgrade/?page=1I dunno what type of climate or daily conditions you are in but that whole don't expose your CVT to open air or so called elements is pure Bunk. Ill provide pictures on request on my setup of a few weeks short of a year and you can clearly see there have been No adverse effects of my Open Ankle biter... Darn Nice Not to have all that abrasive dust eating my cvt alive....
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 28, 2017 6:32:36 GMT -5
I downloaded that speedometer app and done 2 runs today. Cool beans, your getting there..
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 27, 2017 21:39:09 GMT -5
The racing clutch that most sell is just a stock clutch with a shine If you want to get serious about your scoot and get real improvement get a good scale at least as accurate a gram Trimming the clutch weights is a far more reliable way to raise the RPM of the clutch grab than the playing the eBay lottery Hoping to get good quality springs. I have three different colors sets of spring sitting in box with identical to stock strength Big wast of time and money Oh and I recommend not trusting that big brass nut if it's been mucked up A hole new stock clutch is like 30$ Chewy's on it again... You see in my Ankle biter thread I purchased a simple dope scale from the local head shop to weigh all my Rollers and there combinations..
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 27, 2017 20:08:02 GMT -5
Hey piston did you take the cap with the small outlet pipe off of yours? I had left it in there but I took it off today. The sound is MUCH better now and a lot deeper. I need to change my main jet to a little bit smaller size. The pilot and needle are right where I want them but I had to back the fuel mixture screw off a little bit. It was lean at idle and just off idle. No I have the earlier version thats completely welded on both ends. I'm running my $69 special from the GY-6 store in Puerto Rico that you see in my thread.. Im glad yours bolted up and making you happy........
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 27, 2017 19:37:06 GMT -5
Looks good. I was surprised how heavy my stock exhaust was too compared to the aftermarket exhaust. If the bike starts to burble or backfire under deceleration, you will need a richer main jet. What this guy said. Mine required a pilot and needle position change..
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 27, 2017 19:35:06 GMT -5
Did you have issues with yours not mounting right? I thought this was a decent brand. That's the main reason I went with it No you see mine in my thread its from the same vendor, The Bend for the Header ran so close to the motor the fart can was inside the rear wheel. non of the supplied brackets came answer close to bolting up to anything and I have a Very Common Chassis. The Can itself was a completely unserviceable weighed a ton and was just a Heavily Baffled Muffler. Pure Fake Junk!!! and was almost $200 bucks... Labeled as always "High performance" so its Non returnable.
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 27, 2017 19:27:28 GMT -5
Ya one must know how to work with Copper Head Gaskets. Its obvious you need to remove the Cylinder Head then Clean Surgical clean and use either a multi piece steel with the Fire Ring or old fashioned Fiber with the Fire Ring Gasket.... Good luck..
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 27, 2017 11:02:52 GMT -5
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 27, 2017 11:00:11 GMT -5
Measure the Spring Winding thickness, you will see the difference there. The Colors are usually associated with some kind of rpm rating, I run Both a "Red" 2,000rpm Main and Clutch Springs on my NIBBI Clutch. Ask all the question ya want bro, I enjoy helping from actual hands on experience. Ill post a link to my Ankle Biter setup, lots of pictures etc.
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 27, 2017 8:22:11 GMT -5
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 27, 2017 6:54:05 GMT -5
One thing on above 60mph speed on my Hunter Phantom style scoot, The Forks have only one clamp and this ride is a really sketchy getting scary ride at those speeds. It really wasn't fun, to the point of just darn dangerous.
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 27, 2017 6:46:33 GMT -5
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 27, 2017 6:41:14 GMT -5
I have a valley/hill to go thru to get to town so I make a run for it....7,200-7,400 everyday. Be very Picky with your Valve Lash..... My current CVT tune, I GPS'd her at 64.8 mph@7,400rpm, and yes she is Bone Stock internals. There is a whole bunch of speed to be had in a properly tuned CVT. One need to know ere to look.. Check that Belt Climb on the Vari. there is much to gain and lose there.. Good luck
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