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Post by pistonguy on Sept 10, 2017 8:17:11 GMT -5
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 10, 2017 8:14:52 GMT -5
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 7, 2017 13:25:03 GMT -5
Ok, she seized or stuck Again because you have a Massive Air leak. Runaway Throttle is a Air leak on your 2-T, and you'll Stick a Piston every time unless you Fix the problem, the Air Leak.. Either Crank Seals, Intake Spigot or Case Halves themselves, just put the crank seals in there cheap and that should eliminate that possible air leak source, just not worth the time to get a accurate test..
I was born with micrometers in my hands so even if you posted pictures of your piston and cylinder I could not predict if either is in any spec at all. even in my hands, I Don't have Calibrated Eyeballs or Elbow's so Measuring is a must.. You bet bet is Fix the Air Leak then buy a new Cylinder and Piston Assembly, its you best long term bet. If your thinking of using either cylinder scored, your mech may want to "hone" out the scuffed bore, you need the correct type of hone then when you Hone out those scratches all nice and pretty you made your Bore Larger so you will have More Piston to cylinder clearance, That is Not Good.. A piston Scuffed has most likely (bet the house) Lost its Temper and has suffered "Skirt Crush" and has lost its size even tho to the eye looks good. Once the Temper is lost she will seize, scuff, stick or grenade in short order.
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 7, 2017 6:40:13 GMT -5
Make, Model, Year? Engine Size? Two or Four Stroke? Pictures?
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 6, 2017 20:44:08 GMT -5
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 6, 2017 15:55:41 GMT -5
If you have the spring on the inside twist in the same direction as the spring on the outside. It can cause the two springs to bind together So now I check to make sure the coils are crossed It will probably never ever happen again to any body ever I was lucky it only broke the spring and didn't trash the head I don't know how I ended up with a spring wound the wrong way I didn't know that was even something that happened How does a broken spring normally happen? I assume metal fatigue and destructive harmonics YES YOU GOT IT!!!!! Yaaaaaa. All the Springs I have are that way, Both Windings going the Same Direction. OE and Three others including the Fake Ti from NCY, all the windings go the same direction. are all the same. That sets up a real bad buzz of a frequency going up and down that spring, the inner spring wound the opposite direction counteracts that. its very simple.. Its the major block thats preventing me from moving forward on my project. I could get PSI to make me some but they only deal thru Dist, and the local person at the Dist is a Squirrel.
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 6, 2017 9:45:59 GMT -5
Yea I know it's all nerfed and dumbed down ARRGG I WILL MAKE THE GOOD STUFF👹 So I started with stock parts and cut unneeded material Some times a casting is shaped the way it is for good reason But that doesn't mean that reason applies to my goals I have the freedom to try what I think will work So I do. I learned as much from what does not work as what does That and some of the parts really are better choices Like the snowflake clutch bell it is lighter than stock by about 200 grams but still more than strong enough my Ti retainers www.amazon.com/ScootsUSA-169-420-4508-Titanium-Spring-Retainers/dp/B00MXJBS4I/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504668151&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=valve+spring+retainer+gy6+150Yes I know why it broke the dang thing was upside down. It got bound up with the other spring I would love to get my hands on some bee hive springs in a proper size for a 150 And I really want an air amplifier It would probably revolutionize small engine boosting If only ppl would realize what they really do What do think you can do with 15 psi max boost Clarify "upside down".. please
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 5, 2017 12:12:17 GMT -5
Insurance or safety ?? None. it works until it doesn't however it's a fail safe scenario. So if you don't catch it in time its fine no damage has occurred. But if you want a range 0.002 is for race day ripping around a track at 9000 plus RPM trying to avoid valve float. 0.006 would be your kids scooter with a rev limiter And you don't want to be wrenching on it all the time The TI retainers I got were to stock spec on the critical surface It was ez to feel the difference in weight even with only my fingers. I prefer a little bit lower spring tension I get back the lost valve control range by having lighter valve train components. So I dished my valves and trimmed and polished my rocker arms There is a LOT of room for improvement in the OEM valve train components. Someone is probably going going squawk at me But I managed to get better that stock RPM with only an outer valve spring. The inner spring was broken and I didn't have a replacement. If you do that with stock valve train components the intake valve starts to float @ 5000 RPM I was pushing 8000 RPM before I got a little bit of float. I think that after I got my new set of springs I might have had a 1400 RPM capable motor. But I never went fast enough to test that. I never did get to find out how fast that scooter was before it was stolen 😖 These are General Consumer products no matter what hot rod labeling they have on them, the is No such thing as these products Without Insurance built in. Tis like the boneheads adding piston to cylinder clearance, It already has insurance built in don't mess with it. we say insurance to the public but in the meeting room its all about Idiot Proofing product. its already been idiot proofed as much as we can so don't mess with it.... The general public can't get there hands on the good stuff. Were your Ti retainers from NCY? or ? Glad you brought up the inner Valve Spring,, C'mon Chewy don't let me down here, Valve Spring tech. group A, Room #101, Did you note the against all we know of Valve Spring's logic that Second Spring? its Not a surprise she ran better with only the Outer main spring.. And you Do know how and why it broke right?
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 2, 2017 8:39:41 GMT -5
Actually, this is very one I purchased BEFORE I found out the stock carb was unserviceable: "Performance race CVK quality 30mm carburetor for the 152QMI and 157QMJ gy6 125 and 150cc four stroke chinese scooter/atv engines. Fits, but is not limited to the Roketa, Sym, Tank, VIP, Tank, Sunl, Vento, etc." - as sold on www.scrappydogscooters.com/125_150cc_Performance.htmlShould I get a smaller one? (I read that a smaller inlet increase the intake velocity?) Thats what I figured , Over Carbureted beyond on a stock GY Your flushing a Toilet into a Cocktail straw. Nothing but a Go Slow Combination... Fake claims from Scammers who sell Fake parts and pray on the ignorance of others. "Performance" cuz I said so..
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 2, 2017 8:30:22 GMT -5
5000 to 10000 miles is what I have been seeing for a first valve adjustment and about 20% longer before the next It depends on the quality of the head The .001 or .002 plus .003 is how you get to the .004 thousandths gap that is so popular. It's a very good number a Goldilocks type of number. Wile you can add more it will cost in added wear And adding less will wear less on your head but you'll need to do more frequent valve adjustments On my last scooter i had titanium valve spring retainers and dished valves This helped me a lot it gave me better high RPM valve performance AND reliability was improved as their was less mass getting hammered about You can't buy a dished valve tho you have to do it yourself I would be a PITA to do on its own but as part of a needed valve grind it was not to bad K Chewy the clarification is much better. So your numbers given on each number how much "insurance" or "safety" has been built in them? thats using pc correct verbiage.. There is a thickness difference with the Ti retainers over oe and the produce taller installed spring height and lower opening pressure. a Non existent shim kit is in order.. On the Dished Valves,,, Stainless or Ti how many do you want and how fast? Pistondude didn't move from TX to NC for the BBQ, Pork is just plane wrong..
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 31, 2017 23:17:45 GMT -5
On setting valve gap Ideally there is almost zero gap between the cam lobe and the rocker arm when the motor is hot. Just enough for a thin layer of oil and nothing more That's where you get the most valve lift and least float and wear Unfortunately this wonderful ideal lasts about a week under lite use and moderate RPM and then the great power starts to just get dumped out your pipe Cased by a failing exhaust valve seal The exhaust valve is bigger gets hotter and is dealing with a more abrasive medium so it goes first. Soon after that, the seal is bad enough to cause cold starting problems. In my experience a new stock motor loses about .4 to .6 thousandths a month that's .0004 or .0006 of an inch And a valve will grow a thousandth or two more than than the head will when heated to normal operational temperature So you add in the extra valve gap you need to compensate for thermal expansion and a few more thousandths so you don't have to do it again in a month And now you have all the information you need to know what your doing with a valve job The how can be found on YouTube K, Chewy ya gotta keep it going now. So then how many months, hours or miles is the new stock take to set to spec and not have to adjust valve lash every month? So correct me, if my spec is .004" your saying I should add .002" for thermal expansion then another Few, thats .003" more so my corrected lash is now .009"?
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 31, 2017 23:07:26 GMT -5
Drum Rolllllllll........ This is Gunna be Good.....
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 31, 2017 4:46:57 GMT -5
I have a valley/hill to go thru to get to town so I make a run for it....7,200-7,400 everyday. Be very Picky with your Valve Lash..... My current CVT tune, I GPS'd her at 64.8 mph@7,400rpm, and yes she is Bone Stock internals. There is a whole bunch of speed to be had in a properly tuned CVT. One need to know ere to look.. Check that Belt Climb on the Vari. there is much to gain and lose there.. Good luck Pistonguy, Here's one WE can TOTALLY agree on! Have a bone...On my old Xingyue 150 I had your same results. Getting the CVT just right made more difference than anything else. These GY6 engines do put out around 1hp per cubic inch, which is decent. Tweaking the CVT tranny allows you to get the most from that approx. 10hp... Each scoot is different, but tweaking the CVT is probably more rewarding than most other "mods"... especially the roller-weights. I traded "Lil' Bubba" on my "new" old Kymco before having a chance to try sliders, but from posts I've seen, they may be better than rollers for all-round performance by allowing the belt to more fully use the entire variator. The CVT tranny may not be the absolute best setup ever devised, but it's simple, easy to work on and still works extremely well, especially when you take time to get it all "optimal"... Ride safe,Leo in Texas ........
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 30, 2017 15:43:36 GMT -5
I recently replaced the stock fuel filter the shady mechanic installed in place of the (older) high-flow fuel filter I got from SD. It was browned out and soaked in fuel, so they installed the stock one. I swapped it back with a new larger one I bought from Advanced Auto to the same dimension. You're saying its TOO much fuel for the carb, increased pressure on the fuel pump? (isn't the petcock just a manual vaccuum?) I have a 32mm CVK carb on my GY6 150cc, with a custom intake situation to handle the air flow. Are the GY-6 150cc Internals Stock? or? Other than the hot rod intake etc, whats the package of mods? Im trying to figure out why you have a 32mm carb on her..
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 30, 2017 10:25:40 GMT -5
So should I try a 842 belt? I'm running the 835 now yes, that would be the right direction to go. keep in mind that this will be a "try it and see" type of thing, sort of like finding the right roller/contra spring combo. also, do not operate your scooter with exposed CVT parts. doing so is irresponsible and opens you to all manner of lawsuits if someone is injured by your negligence. drill numerous holes in the case instead. another idea would be to make the CVT a part of the intake. this has 2 advantages, it cools the CVT and it warms the incoming air. the drawback is all of the rubber particles from the belt, how to filter these out. please, for your safety and that of others, think before you decide to run without a CVT cover. i can just imagine putting my foot down at the next stop sign, only to have my pant leg sucked into the variator. you WILL get hurt, so will your passenger if you have one. What are your thought on Chain Saws, Weed Wackers, RC Planes, Copters, Drones etc? all potentially Deadly and Dangerous times used responsibly there are few to no issues in a lifetime of use. Yup idiot boy I knew was up in a Loader bucket with Chainsaw overhead and she kicked back and just bumped his neck and he bled out in under ten minutes, his last words were "Oh snit".... He uses Irresponsibly and he paid the ultimate price. Career got sidetracked in the early eighties and ended up at large IH and New Holland ag dealership as a Perkins Diesel and IH engine specialist, Got me out of working on most hay and snit spreader equipment, twas amazing the amount of customers that came in with two hooks for hands, no legs etc from conveyer equipment, PTO shafts etc,every work day was filled with pinch points and hurling Flails, uncoverd customers PTO shafts etc six days a week, and it wasn't the equipment that finally bit be it was a Honda Elsinore 50 at lunch time ate the end of my left hand middle index finger, left it munched on the floor unable to be reattached. looks like ill never play piano. Agin all this dangerous equipment used responsibly as most do have a lifetime of use with no incidents.. I just went out and sat on mine in normal riding position and put my feet down as if at a light, and how the heck long are your legs and hows flexible are you that you can get your ankle been around back there and shove the CVT would take quite a effort, I can't do it An Nope I never have or will have a passenger, my CBR has the passenger pegs removed and the little butt pad relied with a cover making her a single seater. My paved driveway is over 9 tenths of a mile long, no kids, no pets, I have a couple of country road loops I run an she comes back home, run to Wally world she's parked the out of business Radio Shack and again she goes straight home. I wear armor when I ride with the addition of a Hanns device neck collar for RR bikes from Leatt.I would hardly condor myself a Irresponsible owner or operator..
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