Post by steve on May 29, 2015 9:39:25 GMT -5
I just installed an 11 pole, GEH. Yours is absolutely the AC version. Here is what I did:
First, I cut off the connector that has the 3 hot wires, and the ground. The power output wires will either all 3 be yellow, or, as mine was, a yellow, a white, and a pink.
I kept the stock R/R as is, to charge the battery. I installed a 7 wire R/R right across from it. I just spliced 2 of the lead wires, where they go to both reg's. The 3rd wire obviously goes to the 3rd lead on the 7 wire reg. The other 2 wires go to both regulators. This is perfectly fine, because you are not going to put any "strain" on the stator. They produce what they produce. You either use it all, or you don't. What you don't use get's shunted to your frame, which almost certainly has to turn into heat, the way I understand it. Most of the 7 wire reg's are really 6 wire. They will all have 3 hot inputs, plus a ground. Get one with a red and white wire coming out of it. There are some that have a red and a black wire. I am pretty sure the black wire is a "monitor wire". I like having the red and white wire, because both of those are DC output wires. I used the red one to run 1 50 watt LED headlight, and one 13 watt LED headlight. I used the white wire to run an LED taillight, plus another 55 watt headlight that I only use on really dark roads. I know, I know, that's a LOT of light, but I have some Tim Allen in me. Having the 3 phase regulator run your lights is great, because it is "full wave", which doesn't dim hardly at all at low RPM. If you run it as I have, you don't have to have a switch to your lights, and worry about switching them off when you park. They cut on when you fire her up, and they cut off when you cut her off. If you want to keep your high/low beam switch on your handle bar, you can use the white for low beam, and the red for high beam, or vise versa.
I cut the connector off of the 7 wire regulator.(get one that has actual wires coming off of it, as that makes it MUCH easier to tell what goes where).
Get a couple of packs of the weather resistant bullet connectors, and you can crimp those on wherever you need a connection. If you need any help with this stuff, pm me, and I'll give you my phone #, and you can call me. I just totally rewired my scoot, and am still working on it a little. You have been very helpful to me, and I will be happy to help you out with this.
Another thing, an 8 pole flywheel will work fine with the 11 pole stator. I know this for an absolute fact. You can find an 8 pole flywheel for pretty cheap. Basically, if the stator will fit inside the flywheel, it will likely work.
First, I cut off the connector that has the 3 hot wires, and the ground. The power output wires will either all 3 be yellow, or, as mine was, a yellow, a white, and a pink.
I kept the stock R/R as is, to charge the battery. I installed a 7 wire R/R right across from it. I just spliced 2 of the lead wires, where they go to both reg's. The 3rd wire obviously goes to the 3rd lead on the 7 wire reg. The other 2 wires go to both regulators. This is perfectly fine, because you are not going to put any "strain" on the stator. They produce what they produce. You either use it all, or you don't. What you don't use get's shunted to your frame, which almost certainly has to turn into heat, the way I understand it. Most of the 7 wire reg's are really 6 wire. They will all have 3 hot inputs, plus a ground. Get one with a red and white wire coming out of it. There are some that have a red and a black wire. I am pretty sure the black wire is a "monitor wire". I like having the red and white wire, because both of those are DC output wires. I used the red one to run 1 50 watt LED headlight, and one 13 watt LED headlight. I used the white wire to run an LED taillight, plus another 55 watt headlight that I only use on really dark roads. I know, I know, that's a LOT of light, but I have some Tim Allen in me. Having the 3 phase regulator run your lights is great, because it is "full wave", which doesn't dim hardly at all at low RPM. If you run it as I have, you don't have to have a switch to your lights, and worry about switching them off when you park. They cut on when you fire her up, and they cut off when you cut her off. If you want to keep your high/low beam switch on your handle bar, you can use the white for low beam, and the red for high beam, or vise versa.
I cut the connector off of the 7 wire regulator.(get one that has actual wires coming off of it, as that makes it MUCH easier to tell what goes where).
Get a couple of packs of the weather resistant bullet connectors, and you can crimp those on wherever you need a connection. If you need any help with this stuff, pm me, and I'll give you my phone #, and you can call me. I just totally rewired my scoot, and am still working on it a little. You have been very helpful to me, and I will be happy to help you out with this.
Another thing, an 8 pole flywheel will work fine with the 11 pole stator. I know this for an absolute fact. You can find an 8 pole flywheel for pretty cheap. Basically, if the stator will fit inside the flywheel, it will likely work.