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Post by scootdude on Jan 29, 2015 2:57:00 GMT -5
OMG! I had no idea you had to go through all that just to get a whitewall tire on the rear of your bike!! After hearing all that, I think I'm satisfied to stick with plain old black. My bike isn't a beauty queen anyway. I've duct taped over all the ugly, unmanly purple feathers, green beak, and stupid chicken eyes. I don't have any desire at this point to make my bike pretty. I only paid $1500 for it and by the time I get done with it there will be no value left to it. So I'm not concerned with the paint. Right now my only concern is that it be reliable to get me back and forth to work. My work is 21 miles one way, so I really need the bike to be robust and reliable. I just changed the front brake pads, and I've inspected every inch of the radiator and cooling system lines to be sure she's ready for the 115 degree summer temperatures of Phoenix.
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Post by scootdude on Jan 29, 2015 2:31:49 GMT -5
Please pass on any hints on removal/replacement of the big-beak nose on these... Ride safe! Leo Leo, Hey bud! Taking the nose off is really pretty easy. There are 5 screws on each side. There are 2 screws holding the finishing piece under the windshield. The windshield has about 4 bolts holding it on. It must come off to allow room to get to the 2 bolts holding the top of the headlight assembly. Once all the screws and bolts have been removed it's just a matter of carefully pulling the nose loose from the snaps on the sides. Be careful. I broke one of the snaps on one side using a screwdriver to bend it out of place. Oh well. Anyhow, once the nose comes loose, you have to unplug the blinker light connectors and then the main headlight connector. Then the whole nose will come off. I did this 3 times in a row. I got pretty good at it. Once you know what you're doing, it comes off in about 5 minutes of deliberate work. By the way, the guy I talked to at the Kymco shop told me "Oh I'll have to remove the WHOLE nose piece assembly just to GET at the headlamp adjustment part." He wanted to charge me over $200 to get to the bottom of the issue. I'm sure by the time they got to the idea of adding washers to the bottom mounting holes they would have charged me a total of almost $300 bucks. I say to HECK with that. Do it YOURSELF! Save MONEY! I love to tinker with my stuff anyway. Tinkering gives me something to do, and something to give me satisfaction in life. Don't waste your money on having some idiot who probably doesn't even know what they're doing wrench on your bike.
That's my 2 cents anyway. Don't let anyone rip you off! Most of the work on these scooters is pretty easy, and YOU CAN DO EET!! Don't let hucksters rip you off!!
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Post by scootdude on Jan 28, 2015 22:34:48 GMT -5
Yeah those go to the plastic gears on the back that I have no idea what are used for. They aren't adjusters. Are you sure? There is likely a reason for them. Perhaps they move the reflector around inside the light housing. Try turning them while you watch the reflector. They may have made the gears so that you could reach one of them to turn it with the light installed. If they won't move, try loosening the screw on one of them, maybe the copper looking one. It really looks like they'd be the thing to attack. If you can, put the light on the mount and turn the lights on and move the gears. It may take a lot of turns to move the reflector. Never seen gears on a headlight. I'd bet they do something. It may have also had a center gear between the two bottom ones that would have turned them both at the same time via an external screw like Leo's. Try turning both bottom ones at once, left or right at the same time. Here is a link to a SERVICE manual. www.scooterdiva.com/manuals/kymco/grand_vista.zip I didn't see the assembly there for the adjustment but those gears have got to be for that. "Here's your problem, sir. You have a bad headlight gear." I'm pretty darned sure. I turned those screws and they don't turn anything. The gears on the back grind but don't move at all. I have no idea what their purpose is. The manual for the bike doesn't even mention them. In any case, I took my bike out for a ride tonight to test out the adjustment I made with the washers, and the problem is completely solved! The light beam is now just the right distance in front of me and lights up the road ahead. I can now see the road. That's what I needed. To see oncoming potholes, rocks, obstructions, etc etc. The high beam now even lights up the road. So I'm happy with the turn out.
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Post by scootdude on Jan 28, 2015 20:04:53 GMT -5
You'll have to excuse me, but it looks like the Phillips headed gear thingies might be your vertical and horizontal adjusters. Am I wrong? Yeah those go to the plastic gears on the back that I have no idea what are used for. They aren't adjusters.
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Post by scootdude on Jan 28, 2015 12:37:44 GMT -5
PS: In the pix, it APPEARS there is a hollow boss molded into the silver headlight nacelle that SHOULD contain a threaded block to pull the unit backward or forward. It would have to have a counterpart attached to the nose, and I'll bet there's a "headlight-adjustment unit" available for the Grand Dink, and it would fit right in our scoots. If you could even FIND one, it would likely be pricey, and have to be shipped from Taiwan. I think a couple degrees of up or down could be achieved with shims. Just don't twist the plastic housing much at all, or it will break under vibration. Well I put some washers between the bottom headlamp mounts and the frame. I put the nose back on and started up the bike and looked at how it turned out. It really didn't make a noticeable difference. SO I took the nose back off again, took the headlamp off again, removed the washers, and placed the nose back on. It seems I'm just going to have to get ZEN, take some deep breaths... OHM..... OHM..... OHM.... and just become one with the fact that I will never be able to adjust the headlight beam. The sooner I accept that, the sooner I can move on. Hey I gave it the old college try anyway.
The next thing I could look into would be to see if there actually is some kind of adjustment kit to install. I really don't see how it would work because the entire headlamp assembly is one static piece. There's no give one way or another that I can see. I think rather than give myself further brain damage over the adjustment, I should just look into getting additional lights to add.
I'm looking forward to you getting your additional lights added on. I believe I will copy your example. I'm not sure how they would be mounted without drilling into the plastic nose. And if you drill into the nose piece, how would the lights be secured? Anyway, it'll be interesting.
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Post by scootdude on Jan 27, 2015 11:55:32 GMT -5
i have taken my 150cc on the highway a few times. only mod is a 115mm variator. speedometer read 73mph but its about 18% optimistic, actual top speed is close to 60mph. 18% wow. How did you determine it's that far off? GPS?
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Post by scootdude on Jan 27, 2015 11:13:35 GMT -5
Wait a minute. Her parrot had a green beak? I dunno if the parrot had a green beak or not, but she sure had a lot of green in her wallet. The neighborhood I picked it up from was very pinky in the air. When I pulled up to her house, she was outside waiting in front of her 4 car garage in her driveway with the scooter. Her driveway is bigger than the whole piece of property my house sits on. LOL! She had the money to burn on it.
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Post by scootdude on Jan 27, 2015 0:48:57 GMT -5
My wife even decided she doesn't like it either. Still wondering why someone would spend what had to be LOTS of money to get a chicken-bird painted on their scoot. Lady I got it from said she spent $2,800 on the paint job because she wanted it to resemble her pet parrot. And I'm ruining it with about $5 worth of duct tape. HA! At least when I ride it around now I don't feel so out of place on it.
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Post by scootdude on Jan 26, 2015 20:12:44 GMT -5
And as far as shinko goes....Ill show you my new shinko rear tire delaminating after just 1000mi. Im going to get have to get a set of Kenda or Michelin come summer because i was so disappointed i ended up throwing studs in them for winter as to not waste a new set of tires. Only 1000 miles, OUCH! Yeah that'd make me mad for sure. I'll probably follow your lead and pick up a set of Michelin tires. The tread on the tires that are on there right now is actually pretty good. The scooter only has 3700 miles on it. But they're the same tires the scooter was manufactured with back in 2006. They don't look like there's any dry rot going on. I don't see any cracking along the sidewalls. But I'm going to be doing a lot of riding at around 65mph, so I don't want to risk it with 9 year old tires. I'd rather "waste" a couple of "good" tires and have some peace of mind. You're on 2 wheels after all. A blowout at freeway speed isn't fun on a bike. Heck it's not even very fun in a car come to think of it.
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Post by scootdude on Jan 26, 2015 15:36:28 GMT -5
Nice! I love the scooter riding pooch! I should train my cats to do that.
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Post by scootdude on Jan 26, 2015 12:05:16 GMT -5
I just had a thought about your taping. Did you use duck tape? If so, it screws up the paint's finish. I've seen it happen on cars when they taped up bumper or door damage. >'Kat LOL! Yes I used some duct tape. I truly hope it ruins the finish. When the tape finally weathers off I'm going to wet sand the rest of that gawd awful paintjob off and paint it a nice army camouflage, maybe mount some deer antlers on the handlebars, and mount a shotgun on the back of the back trunk. HA! I really don't like the feathers, the purple, the beak, or any of it. My wife even decided she doesn't like it either.
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Post by scootdude on Jan 26, 2015 2:21:32 GMT -5
Honestly the way tire sizes work is: first number is tire width in millimeters. The /xx is the aspect ratio in percent of the first number (width), this translates into the height of the sidewall of the tire (a 100/60 tire has 60% of the sidewall height as the treads width=60mm height). the third number is the rim diameter and is sometimes accompanied by a speed rating letter. Dont worry about specific size on the rear. a 130/60-70 and 120/60-70 will work just fine. for the front you should use stock size or you may throw off your speedo. I get where you're coming from. But the 120/70-12 is 20mm narrower than the 140/70/12. Wouldn't that affect handling, cornering and braking characteristics? Eons ago I used to work at a shop where I did vehicle inspections and emissions testing. If a car or truck came in with modified suspension and wheels and tires that weren't stock sizes it was an automatic fail. Manufacturers give a lot of consideration to ride, center of gravity, handling, etc, etc. Safety is the main concern of most manufacturers. I'd be worried that a narrower tire on the back would reduce the overall safety of the vehicle. Am I off track with that line of thought?
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