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Post by oldchopperguy on Jan 27, 2015 21:10:02 GMT -5
Bummer!
Looks like you definitely found one more difference between the Grandvista and the Grand Dink... My manual is for the Dink. Must be like some Japanese brand cars made in Japan having nicer adjustment features than the same cars made in southern USA Toyota factories. I recall some earlier Japanese Toyotas having elaborate shim-adjustments in the doors... The American counterparts got adjusted with a 10-pound rubber hammer. Then the damage inside the door-jams got painted with rattle-can Dupli-Color... My 1995 Honda Accord was made in Tennessee, AND, it lacks many niceties of the Japan-built same models... Kymco just omitted the headlight adjustment on the GV to be CHEEEEP... Thankfully, all the important stuff seems to be made "bullet-proof"! As good or better than Japanese brands!
Looks like the GV headlight COULD be adjusted as you mention, with washer shims, but only slightly, without stressing the plastic tabs... Break THEM and I'll bet a new one is X-PENSIVE! I may try that on mine. Only a few degrees of "down" is needed, but I'll leave the mounting screws slightly loose so they don't flex when bending the housing down, then put a gob of silicone in the joints to keep them from moving and rattling around. The headlight beams on these bounce around enough as-is... LOL!
Thanks much for the post! Makes me want to get my auxiliary running lights on... and believe me, I will make them fully adjustable! LOL!
Thanks again,
Leo
PS: In the pix, it APPEARS there is a hollow boss molded into the silver headlight nacelle that SHOULD contain a threaded block to pull the unit backward or forward. It would have to have a counterpart attached to the nose, and I'll bet there's a "headlight-adjustment unit" available for the Grand Dink, and it would fit right in our scoots. If you could even FIND one, it would likely be pricey, and have to be shipped from Taiwan. I think a couple degrees of up or down could be achieved with shims. Just don't twist the plastic housing much at all, or it will break under vibration.
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Post by scootdude on Jan 28, 2015 12:37:44 GMT -5
PS: In the pix, it APPEARS there is a hollow boss molded into the silver headlight nacelle that SHOULD contain a threaded block to pull the unit backward or forward. It would have to have a counterpart attached to the nose, and I'll bet there's a "headlight-adjustment unit" available for the Grand Dink, and it would fit right in our scoots. If you could even FIND one, it would likely be pricey, and have to be shipped from Taiwan. I think a couple degrees of up or down could be achieved with shims. Just don't twist the plastic housing much at all, or it will break under vibration. Well I put some washers between the bottom headlamp mounts and the frame. I put the nose back on and started up the bike and looked at how it turned out. It really didn't make a noticeable difference. SO I took the nose back off again, took the headlamp off again, removed the washers, and placed the nose back on. It seems I'm just going to have to get ZEN, take some deep breaths... OHM..... OHM..... OHM.... and just become one with the fact that I will never be able to adjust the headlight beam. The sooner I accept that, the sooner I can move on. Hey I gave it the old college try anyway.
The next thing I could look into would be to see if there actually is some kind of adjustment kit to install. I really don't see how it would work because the entire headlamp assembly is one static piece. There's no give one way or another that I can see. I think rather than give myself further brain damage over the adjustment, I should just look into getting additional lights to add.
I'm looking forward to you getting your additional lights added on. I believe I will copy your example. I'm not sure how they would be mounted without drilling into the plastic nose. And if you drill into the nose piece, how would the lights be secured? Anyway, it'll be interesting.
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Post by 4getful2 on Jan 28, 2015 16:47:27 GMT -5
You'll have to excuse me, but it looks like the Phillips headed gear thingies might be your vertical and horizontal adjusters. Am I wrong?
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Post by scootdude on Jan 28, 2015 20:04:53 GMT -5
You'll have to excuse me, but it looks like the Phillips headed gear thingies might be your vertical and horizontal adjusters. Am I wrong? Yeah those go to the plastic gears on the back that I have no idea what are used for. They aren't adjusters.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 28, 2015 20:33:43 GMT -5
I have to ride around with my hi beam on at night cause my low is way too low,,I did not see any adjustment on it either but I will try some washers maybe,,thanks for the idea!
Tom
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Post by scooter on Jan 28, 2015 20:35:11 GMT -5
You'll have to excuse me, but it looks like the Phillips headed gear thingies might be your vertical and horizontal adjusters. Am I wrong? Yeah those go to the plastic gears on the back that I have no idea what are used for. They aren't adjusters. Are you sure? There is likely a reason for them. Perhaps they move the reflector around inside the light housing. Try turning them while you watch the reflector. They may have made the gears so that you could reach one of them to turn it with the light installed. If they won't move, try loosening the screw on one of them, maybe the copper looking one. It really looks like they'd be the thing to attack. If you can, put the light on the mount and turn the lights on and move the gears. It may take a lot of turns to move the reflector. Never seen gears on a headlight. I'd bet they do something. It may have also had a center gear between the two bottom ones that would have turned them both at the same time via an external screw like Leo's. Try turning both bottom ones at once, left or right at the same time. Here is a link to a SERVICE manual. www.scooterdiva.com/manuals/kymco/grand_vista.zip I didn't see the assembly there for the adjustment but those gears have got to be for that. "Here's your problem, sir. You have a bad headlight gear."
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 28, 2015 20:42:11 GMT -5
7 gears on that thing Holy Smokes!!! !!!
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Post by scootdude on Jan 28, 2015 22:34:48 GMT -5
Yeah those go to the plastic gears on the back that I have no idea what are used for. They aren't adjusters. Are you sure? There is likely a reason for them. Perhaps they move the reflector around inside the light housing. Try turning them while you watch the reflector. They may have made the gears so that you could reach one of them to turn it with the light installed. If they won't move, try loosening the screw on one of them, maybe the copper looking one. It really looks like they'd be the thing to attack. If you can, put the light on the mount and turn the lights on and move the gears. It may take a lot of turns to move the reflector. Never seen gears on a headlight. I'd bet they do something. It may have also had a center gear between the two bottom ones that would have turned them both at the same time via an external screw like Leo's. Try turning both bottom ones at once, left or right at the same time. Here is a link to a SERVICE manual. www.scooterdiva.com/manuals/kymco/grand_vista.zip I didn't see the assembly there for the adjustment but those gears have got to be for that. "Here's your problem, sir. You have a bad headlight gear." I'm pretty darned sure. I turned those screws and they don't turn anything. The gears on the back grind but don't move at all. I have no idea what their purpose is. The manual for the bike doesn't even mention them. In any case, I took my bike out for a ride tonight to test out the adjustment I made with the washers, and the problem is completely solved! The light beam is now just the right distance in front of me and lights up the road ahead. I can now see the road. That's what I needed. To see oncoming potholes, rocks, obstructions, etc etc. The high beam now even lights up the road. So I'm happy with the turn out.
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jan 28, 2015 23:00:43 GMT -5
Wow... Strange stuff, those gears!
I was wondering about them too... Not likely, but, the two smaller-displacement "Dinks" use analog gauges rather than the 250's digital dash. Could be those gears are superfluous leftovers from the analog dash. But I doubt it... LOL!
Now I'm about to remove the nose on mine, so maybe you can share info on removal. All the screws I see which look like they hold the nose on are on the rear, into the black plastic. Are there others hiding elsewhere? Enquiring minds want to know...
I'm glad you got the light aimed! I'd like to do the same, even with added driving lights.
Thanks!
Leo
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jan 28, 2015 23:11:42 GMT -5
Oh, about mounting the new lights...
They are quite light-weight. I plan on using featherweight classroom flag-pole mounts MAYBE mounted to the windshield posts. If not, then mounted to the nose-plastic with rubber between, and large fender-washers behind the plastic. I've found that with big fender-washers, and rubber cushioning, you CAN mount things successfully to the plastics without them cracking from stress.
My old 150 kept breaking the welded-steel rear rack when carrying groceries in the trunk. I made struts from chromed-steel tubing bolted to the weak rack, then down to the rear plastics using big fender-washers to spread the load. In five years of carrying lots of loads, nothing ever broke again.
It's pretty hard to attach things to these scooters without mounting to the plastic, but if you spread the load, it works well....
Please pass on any hints on removal/replacement of the big-beak nose on these...
Ride safe!
Leo
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Post by scootdude on Jan 29, 2015 2:31:49 GMT -5
Please pass on any hints on removal/replacement of the big-beak nose on these... Ride safe! Leo Leo, Hey bud! Taking the nose off is really pretty easy. There are 5 screws on each side. There are 2 screws holding the finishing piece under the windshield. The windshield has about 4 bolts holding it on. It must come off to allow room to get to the 2 bolts holding the top of the headlight assembly. Once all the screws and bolts have been removed it's just a matter of carefully pulling the nose loose from the snaps on the sides. Be careful. I broke one of the snaps on one side using a screwdriver to bend it out of place. Oh well. Anyhow, once the nose comes loose, you have to unplug the blinker light connectors and then the main headlight connector. Then the whole nose will come off. I did this 3 times in a row. I got pretty good at it. Once you know what you're doing, it comes off in about 5 minutes of deliberate work. By the way, the guy I talked to at the Kymco shop told me "Oh I'll have to remove the WHOLE nose piece assembly just to GET at the headlamp adjustment part." He wanted to charge me over $200 to get to the bottom of the issue. I'm sure by the time they got to the idea of adding washers to the bottom mounting holes they would have charged me a total of almost $300 bucks. I say to HECK with that. Do it YOURSELF! Save MONEY! I love to tinker with my stuff anyway. Tinkering gives me something to do, and something to give me satisfaction in life. Don't waste your money on having some idiot who probably doesn't even know what they're doing wrench on your bike.
That's my 2 cents anyway. Don't let anyone rip you off! Most of the work on these scooters is pretty easy, and YOU CAN DO EET!! Don't let hucksters rip you off!!
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jan 29, 2015 15:14:05 GMT -5
Please pass on any hints on removal/replacement of the big-beak nose on these... Ride safe! Leo Leo, Hey bud! Taking the nose off is really pretty easy. There are 5 screws on each side. There are 2 screws holding the finishing piece under the windshield. The windshield has about 4 bolts holding it on. It must come off to allow room to get to the 2 bolts holding the top of the headlight assembly. Once all the screws and bolts have been removed it's just a matter of carefully pulling the nose loose from the snaps on the sides. Be careful. I broke one of the snaps on one side using a screwdriver to bend it out of place. Oh well. Anyhow, once the nose comes loose, you have to unplug the blinker light connectors and then the main headlight connector. Then the whole nose will come off. I did this 3 times in a row. I got pretty good at it. Once you know what you're doing, it comes off in about 5 minutes of deliberate work. By the way, the guy I talked to at the Kymco shop told me "Oh I'll have to remove the WHOLE nose piece assembly just to GET at the headlamp adjustment part." He wanted to charge me over $200 to get to the bottom of the issue. I'm sure by the time they got to the idea of adding washers to the bottom mounting holes they would have charged me a total of almost $300 bucks. I say to HECK with that. Do it YOURSELF! Save MONEY! I love to tinker with my stuff anyway. Tinkering gives me something to do, and something to give me satisfaction in life. Don't waste your money on having some idiot who probably doesn't even know what they're doing wrench on your bike.
That's my 2 cents anyway. Don't let anyone rip you off! Most of the work on these scooters is pretty easy, and YOU CAN DO EET!! Don't let hucksters rip you off!!
Many thanks!
I also see there is another difference between the Grand Vista and the Dink. The windshield is totally different. It looks like your windshield is the type used on the Dink, while mine is taller, wider and fastens with stations in the back, as well as under the trim. I suppose different years may also incorporate different "little things".
As soon as possible (which may be a while... LOL!) I'll get working on mine. I do want to lower the factory headlight beam, and install the running lights.
Thanks much for sharing info. That's what makes this site so satisfying. We all have hundreds of riding buddies, even if we never meet in person. Great stuff!
Ride safe,
Leo
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Post by oldscoot50 on Apr 13, 2015 21:23:40 GMT -5
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