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Post by lain on Oct 16, 2015 9:03:48 GMT -5
So I have replaced the intake manifold, the spacer, the gaskets, since I do not use vacuum lines I have capped the intake manifolds vacuum lines, yet it keeps running lean at idle sometimes especially after coming to a stop after riding for a littl ebit. I tuned the a/f mix screw, which seemed to help but not a lot. It seems to bog right when taking off from a stop but only then and will rise and lower idle speed when I come to a stop. I have replaced everything that would leak so what am I missing here?  |
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Post by lain on Oct 15, 2015 20:52:41 GMT -5
Seems it wasn't a 250cc it is actually a 150cc kymco super 9 liquid cooled 2 stroke. The part to put the engine mounting arm thing seems to be off by about half an inch for a 4 stroke but I'm thinking I can find a way to work around that, otherwise it looks like I can just drop in a 4 stroke 150cc engine and strip all of the unused crud off of it.
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Post by lain on Oct 15, 2015 20:50:05 GMT -5
I second endless-sphere.com A really helpful and fun site. I got a small 300W scooter on craigslist that had two 12v batteries wired together, and I just took off the jumper wire connecting them and charged them both separately with my battery tender jr. and it worked fine until I got an actual charger made for the scoot. That is what I tried to do. I seperated them and tried to connect each of them one at a time to the charger but the charger which is one of those automatic chargers with 1.5a it just blinked the red and yellow, normally it is supposed to be steady yellow to charge and green when full. |
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Post by lain on Oct 15, 2015 15:30:27 GMT -5
There's no electric scooter sections... Hmm... Oh well here's my question:
Just got an electric scooter for free. Batteries are dead. Can I charge them with a regular scooter battery charger? I tried to hook mine up to them but the lights just blinked which only happens when I cross the charging cables by accident. So I'm thinking either these batteries are completely shot or my charger doesn't charge them? They are 12v 7a batteries, just like my regular scooter batteries but instead of screw in terminals they have spade terminals.
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Post by lain on Oct 14, 2015 21:44:22 GMT -5
I just used regular scooter horns. The hardest part really was fitting them in the tiny space haha.
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Post by lain on Oct 14, 2015 19:54:36 GMT -5
Don't forget to put a relay, it won't work well at low RPMs without a relay.  It works the same at all rpms and when the engine is off. Very loud and sounds like a car lol |
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Post by lain on Oct 14, 2015 19:36:35 GMT -5
The scooter I'm grabbing looks sort of like that but with a flat seat. From what I've seen so far what I know about it is it is a kymco, liquid cooled with 12 inch tires. The frame is in good shape, most things are missing but that's not a big deal if I can put a new engine in it since I would need to change everything anyways. rcq92130 Not sure what you're talking about if you remember I joined this forum and already had installed a BBK, look at my first posts lol. But hey thanks for the advice nonetheless |
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Post by lain on Oct 14, 2015 19:03:12 GMT -5
It's not worth it. It's rusted completely on the inside and full of rain and other junk from sitting around with the topend and transmission torn apart for years. It's also a 2 stroke and I don't mess with those really if I don't have to. Not to mention I have a completely good low mile 150cc engine waiting to be used. There's really not much worth anything on it as it has been stripped of all good parts beforehand, besides a police siren and lights set lol.
It kind of looks like I could mount the 150cc engine in it if I find one of those curvey engine mount things that doesn't get in the way of the carb and just attach the engine to the rear shocks.
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Post by lain on Oct 14, 2015 10:38:20 GMT -5
In case anyone was wondering if it was easy or how to do it, I have just setup 2 horns together to produce a 2 tone horn sound like a car. I tried a couple different ways and here they are:
Setup 1: Daisy chain horns
Easy enough right? Hook up the positive horn wire to one horn then connect the negative to a different horn and then connect the remaining terminals on each horn together by 1 wire. It's the same way a christmas trees lights are, so it may require less extra wiring but will end up in both horns not working if one of them dies.
Setup 2: Parallel
Wire together 2 horns by connecting the positive and negative terminals to the same terminals on another horn, then hook up the wires as you would normally to one of the horns, and bam you got a 2 tone setup. This setup has the benefit of being able to continue function of one horn if one of the horns die.
Tuning tones: I tune them by ear to give off a harmonic tone instead of just 2 random tones together. There is a screw on the back of most horns to tune the tone. If you tune it too far it won't make a noise so be careful.
Btw guys I use 16 gauge wire for horns, you probably don't want to go too far from the gauge of the harness wire ya know?
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Post by lain on Oct 14, 2015 9:18:37 GMT -5
No when the belt is broken in you reach a higher top speed usually if it is not a kevlar belt, if it is kevlar there should be no change at all until the point it needs to be changed. I would suspect something else. If nothing has changed in the past month since doing the work, and you had a higher top speed then but not now without making changes, then something is wrong or not right. Go check everything out, especially the rollers, check for bald spots you might have got some defective or poorly made parts when you installed last time. If you are using the rollers that came with the kit you might want to switch them out for premium stuff like prima rollers.
You can change out the clutch springs with an adjustable wrench. I get a large adjustable wrench, put it on the nut then I stand in front of a brick wall or something that is a little higher than waist height and grip the clutch and wrench real tight and swing from above my head to the wall so the very end of the wrench slams into the brick or concrete. I takes a strong person and a little persistence and skill of the wrist but it usually takes me half a dozen swings or so to loosen the bolt to the point I can do the rest by hand with the wrench.
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Post by lain on Oct 14, 2015 8:57:13 GMT -5
My friend is selling a 250cc scooter with a blown engine for dirt cheap. I have a 150cc engine that is good I want to put in it. Before I buy it though I want to know if anyone else has ever put a 150cc engine into a 250cc scooter frame? It looks like the same mounting but I can't exactly lug around a 150cc engine on my own scooter to go and see if it fits lol, just not realistic.
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Post by lain on Oct 14, 2015 6:17:37 GMT -5
Lain, I just recently treated the inside of my riva's rusty- tank with 'kreem'.. its a tank liner, some sort of elastomer in a MEK solution- after it goes in, the solvent evaporates and leaves you with what looks like a sloppy painted surface... and it is coloring my fuel a bit as well. However it works perfect. Are you running a filter? It should catch anything that would clog your jets... look at these photos and see if your tank looks like this.... Greg 1983 Yamaha 180 running EcoTrons EFI   Yeah that's pretty much exactly how it looks on the inside of my tank too haha. I am using a filter but it is one of those metal mesh filters, going to switch to the paper one though. |
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Post by lain on Oct 13, 2015 7:11:51 GMT -5
I just an old scooter and it seems the previous owner painted the inside of the tank for some reason with hat looks like thick house paint. Even after cleaning it out a dozen times when I put gas into the tank the gas comes out the color of the paint (light brown). I'm suspecting it will cause the engine to not run, I do not even want to hook it up to a carb the way it is. What can I do to remove the paint from inside a gas tank or should I just get a new one?
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Post by lain on Oct 12, 2015 21:12:45 GMT -5
Are you sure you adjusted the valves correctly? Did you do it after letting it sit overnight or after a ride? Sounds like valve issue or maybe bad cdi or coil.
If the jet was wrong you would notice it right away when you try to take off it would just die instead. You could benefit from finding the perfect size but the wrong one should not be an issue 5 miles in.
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Post by lain on Oct 8, 2015 10:16:36 GMT -5
Then are you absolutely sure the battery is good? Charge the battery then put your meter on it and attempt to start your scooter. On a bad battery the voltage will drop a LOT, like more than half, while using the electric starter. Thanks Will Try that tonight... So just to give you a little more details. A good battery will not drop below 9v. All my good batteries read between 12 and 13 volts without load and between 9 and 10 volts under the load of the starter motor. I have a bad battery that reads 11 without load and between 6 and 7 volts while under load and will not turn an engine over but will work for horn and lights and seems to be okay unless you use the starter. Pretty sure you need above 9v under load just like with a car for the starter motor and everything to work properly. |
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