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Post by lain on Oct 8, 2015 9:24:31 GMT -5
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Post by lain on Oct 8, 2015 9:21:16 GMT -5
So I have 6 torque springs, 5 of them are colorless stock, 1 of them is yellow (1500rpm). When I first got all of these springs they were weaker than they are now. Most of the colorless ones are stronger than the yellow was when new now, and the yellow one is just impossible now at this point, but were once a lot weaker. It seems with use all my springs become stronger. Is this normal? I thought they got weaker over time?
When I first got them I could easily separate the pulley ramps on the clutch, now it takes all my might and I can only barely separate them enough to get the belt in for installation. Will they eventuall become so strong they will not be able to function properly and will just snap belts?
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Post by lain on Oct 7, 2015 8:49:06 GMT -5
I've done the same thing sort of. Take the stator from the old engine, put it in the new engine, put the new engine in the scooter and plug everything in. Pretty simple compared to what you've done so far.
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Post by lain on Oct 7, 2015 8:22:41 GMT -5
Then are you absolutely sure the battery is good? Charge the battery then put your meter on it and attempt to start your scooter. On a bad battery the voltage will drop a LOT, like more than half, while using the electric starter.
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Post by lain on Oct 7, 2015 6:58:21 GMT -5
The wires, have you checked the wires? I know from experience they can visually look good but on the inside of the insulation be all fried and beaten up. Find a nice quiet time of the day, or a quiet room, and try and move the wires around in your hands. If you hear crinkling sort of like a very small or tiny plastic bag contained in the wires, and/or feel what seems like the wires scraping and breaking inside the insulation then they are fried and will not be able to carry the full charge through the wires. Sometimes you may also notice the copper ends of the wires being brown instead of copper colored.
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Post by lain on Sept 28, 2015 0:00:54 GMT -5
No, not the black/white wire. I just clipped that wire to make sure it wasn't grounding with no luck. I'm not getting any power from the stator black/red wire. I'm thinking I need to order a new stator and cdi. I'm not sure if its a 6 or 8 coil as I can't get the flywheel off until I get that damn puller. Should I just order the 8? Didn't you say you had power to the coil? The 8 and 6 pole are interchangeable, the 8 pole is considered an upgrade from 6. Make sure to get one with the same wires and connector. |
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Post by lain on Sept 26, 2015 21:04:28 GMT -5
Try a new spark plug. If that doesn't work try a new plug boot, they can fail easily due to vibration or corrosion like from getting wet, but you really should make sure there isn't a way for rain to enter the electrical system and the plug boot should have a nice rubber insulator for the plug. You can also try unscrewing the wire from the boot and coil (it just unscrews, try it) then cut about half an inch from each end then screw both ends back in, if it was loose that should help it. Also do you have a good ground wire on the engine block? The engine mounts aren't good grounding for the engine/spark. Sometimes the ends of ground wires can become corroded from moisture and snap off too.
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Post by lain on Sept 26, 2015 20:48:13 GMT -5
I thought those were 8 lb/ft
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Post by lain on Sept 25, 2015 15:04:27 GMT -5
So what's the top speed now?
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Post by lain on Sept 25, 2015 9:01:06 GMT -5
Here's a weird question... As I stated I received to heads yesterday with everything installed, both had the spark plug in and both heads that the coil wire goes over seemed to be purposely bent. Is there a reason for this? Not sure what you mean, can you take a pic? |
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Post by lain on Sept 24, 2015 21:06:17 GMT -5
remember where all the little metal guides go. It's important to reinstall how it was. You'll see what I mean when you tear it down. Make sure to install the rings properly and to use a torque wrench to tighten it up in the end. Pretty much same exact procedure as this: www.49ccscoot.com/bbk.html |
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Post by lain on Sept 24, 2015 11:44:27 GMT -5
I have never seen a cam like that. I would guess the lines would be what lines up with the engine casing/head. I would watch the ramps on the cam to see when the ramps are between in/ex, like you can see both ramps there but neither of them are pushing the tappets yet. And if the lines line up with the casing I would say that is tdc. You just have to try some stuff out and see if it looks good. Maybe the entire problem is figuring out this cam, because even if it's 1 tooth off it can cause it to not start/run.
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Post by lain on Sept 24, 2015 8:26:57 GMT -5
Don't kill yourself trying to figure out why it happened. Things just like to pop up after you solve them. That's why it says "One problem after another" under my avatar image, because I have been there so many times haha. Sometimes, well often in my experience, when one thing goes wrong everything wants to go wrong. Murphy's law.
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Post by lain on Sept 23, 2015 15:43:42 GMT -5
So just to check, you have checked the new gaps both before and after tightening them right? It's not excessive anymore right? It's still not starting? What about with the kick starter? Never could get it to start with the new gaps. - no kick start as I have fuel injection Do you have spark? Do you have compression? Are you sure fuel is reaching the engine? |
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Post by lain on Sept 23, 2015 12:32:15 GMT -5
So just to check, you have checked the new gaps both before and after tightening them right? It's not excessive anymore right? It's still not starting? What about with the kick starter?
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