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Post by lain on Nov 19, 2015 16:28:57 GMT -5
What do you mean it is 6mm? Isn't that smaller than the one in the picture? Every exhaust nut I've ever encountered was 10mm. Chinese, japanese, italian, doesn't matter the make it's always 10mm. Plus the head doesn't matter, it's the threads on the inside that count. You Use a 10MM Wrench or Socket ,That Has Nothing to Do with The Stud/Thread Size. In Any language. You Contradicted yourself there. as in What Wrench you use then it doesn't matter? huh? If he goes to the "Nut Store" and Buys a 10MM Nut it will be Too Big. He needs to get a 6mm Nut and Appropriate Lock/Washers. This is Sold By the BAG for the GY-6 in E-bay I have Seen some 8mm Stud Up-Grades because this is a Weak Link. But OE should be 6mm I have plenty of heads, no 6mm bolt fits them... Unless I am misunderstanding you you are saying 6mm threads work with the exhaust threads, but the stud themselves have 8m threads when checking them at lowes. They do not fit past the first turn on the 6mm slot and even then it strips part of the stud getting it in there... Either way the best thing for brandon667 to do is go back to lowe's, bring the extra nut he has, fit them to the measurement plaque thing, and buy new nuts and a couple crusher rings like that come stock. Maybe his are different, what works for  % of people may not work for 100% of people... |
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Post by lain on Nov 19, 2015 12:43:40 GMT -5
I wouldn't use any loctite at all for exhaust nuts. The thing that keeps them from loosening up from expansion is that crusher ring you should have between the nut and the engine block. It is like a ring but the ends of it are not lined up allowing you space to crush it down, hence the name crusher ring. It will keep the nut locked in.
Regardless of what method you use to keep it locked in you should make sure you are not over tightening them because that will also cause them to loosen up. If you over tighten them when it heats up and the metal expands it has no choice but to back out of the threads or if hot enough melt into the case, either case is not good. I believe the tightness for those nuts is 8 pounds per feet. If you don't have a torque wrench I would say that is about after both nuts have tightened down and feel tight to hand turning, then turn them about 1/4 turn more. Calibrate your wrist by going to the freezer and finding 8 pounds of ham or burger meat and use a 1 foot long handled wrench.
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Post by lain on Nov 19, 2015 11:39:27 GMT -5
Thats your Exhaust Stud, A Nut goes on it is 6mm They Love to Vibrate loose, Most Likely Leaking Exhaust now. Be Careful Not to Over tighten as you Will Break the Fragile Undersized Stud. A Lock-Nut will Work Beter than a Nut with a Washer and Lock Washer. What do you mean it is 6mm? Isn't that smaller than the one in the picture? Every exhaust nut I've ever encountered was 10mm. Chinese, japanese, italian, doesn't matter the make it's always 10mm. Plus the head doesn't matter, it's the threads on the inside that count. |
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Post by lain on Nov 19, 2015 0:50:22 GMT -5
 What nut and size for tao tao 2014 50cc See the other nut? Remove it, bring it to lowe's and use their size measurement tester thing or ask for help there. I know the top of it is 10mm but that makes no difference since the important part is the inside threads size which you can't just shove a wrench on to find out. It's probably m8 threads but you'll have to go and find out. Make sure you get a nut that's deep enough to go all the way down to the engine or it won't seal the muffler flange. |
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Post by lain on Nov 19, 2015 0:15:48 GMT -5
Into the engine port i mean Do you have the old one? Bring it to lowes with you and use the size tester they have usually in the same place as the nuts and bolts. Screw it in to the holes till you find the right size and it should be labeled to help you find what you're looking for. |
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Post by lain on Nov 18, 2015 23:34:54 GMT -5
Well, the new cdi came in today.....still no spark. I'm not a parts swapper but dang..... Just an update... I will start over tomorrow but again wanted any ideas...black/white wire unplugged so far as I know the 'stop' circuit should be disabled. Ignition has to be the problem. Weak stator? Does anyone have the pinouts for the start / kill switch for this scoot? I find generic diagrams but want to know things are plugged in right and the switches are doing what they are supposed to do. Unplug the killswitch from behind the plastic around the handlebars to rule out the killswitch. Unplug the key switch from inside the front nose plastics and use the kickstarter or use a screwdriver to connect the large solenoid terminals (to use the electric starter without switches) to rule out the key ignition. |
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Post by lain on Nov 17, 2015 16:53:49 GMT -5
Yeah if your muffler is missing a bolt it will rattle against the parts it is close to when it is not secured by the missing bolt. Go to lowes or home depot, they are like 30 cents lol.
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Post by lain on Nov 17, 2015 9:51:55 GMT -5
Or just make the bodies entirely solar panels haha. Just be careful not to scratch it cuz you can't get a paint job. Unfortunately, solar panels have to all be in the light to work properly, any panel in shade throws off the entire system. This can be worked around with lots of extra electronics, but even then the efficiency drops by huge amounts, and the price skyrockets. This is why electric cars are not covered in panels yet. But what if they didn't chain together the solar panels and instead hooked them up so they would be one-way and would all independently be providing power to the battery and engine? I mean we can do it in small scale projects like for portable solar chargers so why not with vehicles? |
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Post by lain on Nov 16, 2015 15:53:49 GMT -5
i like the idea,,but battery life and range are issues at least for me,,,and i'd like the idea even better with some kind of solar charge arrangement like foldable panels that could be deployed for quick charging while you were at work or any time its parked in the daytime so youre always "topped up",,,i think a hybrid arrangement is best for right now,,,a very small 25-30cc engine to run a generator so it's always being charged ,,,kinda like a train locomotive Or just make the bodies entirely solar panels haha. Just be careful not to scratch it cuz you can't get a paint job. |
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Post by lain on Nov 16, 2015 8:27:46 GMT -5
The e-bikes are really easy to fix, only a few components really. Battery, controller, motor, throttle and a brake or two and you have a fully working e-bike. The only thing that bugs me is the low distance unless it is a pedal e-bike then it is a different story. I would easily get stranded on a pedal-less e-bike haha I travel about 20-50 miles a day depending on what I'm doing.
The new foldable e-bikes look like retro transformers lol.
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Post by lain on Nov 16, 2015 6:52:21 GMT -5
just went out and squeezed the gas supply line leading fro the gas filter to the carburator started the scooter it started and died quick, but then another try and bam it started and ran good ,took it for a ride,runs perfect ....thanks for the help anyways fellas It would be a good idea to run your system with some seafoam to get anything else out and keep it clear for next time as well. Seafoam is a motor treatment product you can add to your gas tank in small amounts and it will liquefy any hardened gas you may have in your system while it runs. It sure beats having to clean out the carb later on. Have fun! |
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Post by lain on Nov 15, 2015 10:47:29 GMT -5
What are the measurements of the length and distance between each eyes you need? What are the measurements of the one you can't use? I have a gy6 150cc engine hangar, if it's the right size we could trade. I'm also looking for a gy6 150cc hangar but the one I have is about a half inch or so too long for the frame I want to put it in. If mine will be good for you and vice versa I imagine we could work something out, shipping isn't too much on these is it?
Edit: Oops didn't read fully the first time sorry I didn't realize you sent it away already when you posted lol
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Post by lain on Nov 14, 2015 21:03:52 GMT -5
Things to think about are the pipe inner diameter and header size, if the 50cc pipe is thinner in diameter than the 150cc then it will obviously have some bit of a restriction, but like others have said the exhaust pressure or lack of does not effect a 4 stroke much, that's why exhaust mods are usually left to be the last things or not done at all on most 4 strokes. On a 2 stroke exhaust pipes can make or break the entire setup.
If you removed everything from the inside of the muffler can, then it basically has no use and there isn't any point in having it except to shape the sound leaving the pipe but would not muffle without the fiberglass packing stuff in it.
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Post by lain on Nov 14, 2015 11:53:55 GMT -5
If the only change is connecting the CDI then the obvious answer would be the CDI is bad now and may be grounding the connection inside of it. It happens over time they vibrate and they are just held together with epoxy which dries and cracks over time in extreme conditions like high heat or freezing cold temps. If it acts the same with a brand new CDI then I would expect the wiring somewhere to be frayed and grounding to the frame or something by accident.
CDI's are one of those weird components you can't test accurately and can cause a bunch of problems and seem like something else entirely. Inside the CDI is a green circuit board with a bunch of capacitors. A single capacitor could blow inside a CDI and it would still work until it reaches the RPM that capacitor is responsible for. It can also have a capacitor become disconnected from being hot for a while then becoming cool (hot cold cycles) eventually they break. The cheaper ones break fast, the expensive ones don't seem to break from these issues (like the gold Casoli CDI, def get one they are worth every penny and you save on money int he end because you will stop replacing CDI's lol).
When getting a new CDI match ti to the one already installed or get a nice one. Like I said Casoli is the best when it comes to CDI's, hands down, period, end of story. The Blue CDI with the pigtail connector are good but I find don't put up well with cold temperatures and cause kickback during starts. The orange CDI's that look like slightly smaller stock CDI's are just trash, they die so easily it's funny they can even still sell them. If in doubt of what to get stick with stock, stock is always good because it ran before with stock didn't it? lol
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Post by lain on Nov 13, 2015 21:03:31 GMT -5
Thanks for the great advice! What I have is a TaoTao Roman. It's so encased in plastics I'm wondering how much I have to do to get a spot where I can drain the tank. Anyone else have one of these? Just siphon it out. Get a hose for fuel and a spray bottle top, and a bucket. Put one end of the hose int he tank, make sure the other end of the hose is below the tank. Put the straw from the spray bottle top in the hose and firmly grip around it with your hand so it is air tight and start squeezing the spray trigger and it should start coming out after a few sprays and make sure to remove the spray bottle top after it starts flowing and aim it into a bucket! To drain the carb there is a drain valve that is usually bolted onto the CVT case on the bottom left corner (closest to the front of the scooter). There is a screw on the bottom of it, if you turn it it should open the valve and allow the gas in the carb to drain out of the side of the valve. With the above methods you barely have to do anything to get the gas out. |
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% of people may not work for 100% of people... 
