Recent Posts  By   (Read times)

No seafoam has no effect on performance unless your ride was already suffering. Avoid using additives except seafoam (and even that only in small amounts), these tiny engines weren't built like cars and a lot of common additives are for cars not tiny 50cc engines. 

You should always have been using octane. The reason is different octane levels of gas explode at different points, and using the wrong octane will put your timing off and cause you to run bad or eventually not at all. Putting seafoam into your system after running it with low octane would be a good idea to get rid of anything leftover and liquefy anything you may have gotten clogged. I run seafoam in my tank every fill up or two, just a shot glass for your first few fillups then a half of a glass after will keep it clean and running happy. 

CDI's don't improve performance a lot, but in combination with other mods they do add up and eventually you can get a 50cc up to 45 top speed and 30-40 cruising speed. The difference in the way CDI's work is that a performance CDI will ignite the gas/air int he combustion chamber at a slightly different time than regular and if tuned properly can give you a boost in acceleration and overall make yoru engine run smoothly in comparison to stock. Stock CDI's are great though, nothing wrong witht hem at all, the max you can hope for from a performance CDI is about 3mph top if you're running performance parts. Although the best CDI for performance is the casoli brand, it is much bigger and is gold, and is very hard to find a comfortable space to put it haha, but it lasts forever and puts up with so much you can count on it nomatter what. I've gone through an engine already and the casoli CDI outlasted the engine, now that's something to say about thier quality.

Scrappy sells the casoli CDI I think? Can't find it on his site so here's one from ebay:

www.ebay.com/itm/CDI-Scooter-AC-Casoli-GY6-Chinese-Performance-/390691527435?hash=item5af7079b0b:g:MusAAOxyrxZR3bci&vxp=mtr

florida You may have gotten a cheap variator set. I have bought them online and half the time the plastic clips as you call them become damaged or disintegrate, and that of course throws EVERYTHING off. It first causes your weights to wobble and wear down while the plate behind it wobbles as well because it can't grab the post on the variator to keep it at one set angle. Then of course the weights wearing down will cause the entire variator to wobble on the boss and throws everything off, and eventually this will cause the belt to get jammed, slip, and work in ways it shouldn't which cause excessive wear and destroy the belt.

Kevlar and aramid belts put up to the high torque of the engine as well as occasional abuse from messed up cheap parts and will last a very very long time. I've never seen a kevlar belt snap in even the worst conditions, the best kevlar belt maker I've found so far is MMG. Gates has the best aramid, but I've seen aramid belts snap where kevlar belts don't even get worn down... So obviously kevlar is better. Kevlar is what special ops uses as body armor, if they can put their life in the hands of kevlar then it just seems like the best choice. Then there's rubber... rubber (regular belts) heat up and tear and wear just from being used, even more so in your bbk setup. Rubber also stretches and effectively lowers the amount of power transferred from the engine to the rear wheel...

The model number would be on the manufacturer's cardboard sleeve, which is what most people think makes it genuine, but it's cardboard so anyone could just copy it anyways. The model number is something usually like PLxxxx (x's being numbers), but I have yet to see the model number on any of the belts, just the sleeves. 

Remove ALL components except what you need to run (CDI, Solenoid, coil, battery, engine) to simplify it further. It may be something weird but who knows. Try to pull all the plastics off and view ever portion of the wire harness. If you have some extra terminals and some 16 and 10 gauge wiring rewire the entire running portion (look up in the text) with new wires and start it up by using a screwdriver to cross the terminals on the solenoid, and kill it by hooking the killswitch back up and switching it off, or unplug the black/yellow wire from the coil or unplug the CDI. 

The symptoms point to the CDI, but maybe the wiring to the CDI is bad or wrong? Did you cut the wrong green wire? When you cut the wire for the limiter it is right next to the wire for the ground. The bottom left wire in the harness when in the CDI is the limiter, the middle bottom one is the ground. If you ground the limiter wire instead it will also create these symptoms. 

Yes removing the wire from the CDI would do the same thing, but if you don't have the extractor tool you will likely damage the terminal and plastic connector. The other way to go would be to cut the wire and put it back together later but then down the road it could loosen up and fall apart and leave you scratching your head and pushing it home. Much better to just disconnect them the proper way and not deal with it down the line. 

It really sounds like you have a bad CDI if the only thing making it drop is plugging in the CDI and removing it instantly restores the power issue... Did someone mess with your CDI connector and put the wires in the wrong places? Are you maybe grounding the wrong wire? It sounds like whenever your CDI is connected the power is grounded. 

Like I said, I do it at lowe's. I had brought a stud with me and screwed it in to the plaque mounted on the shelf. I was there shopping for a friend because he had the same exact issue, and I did not have any spares so that's how I found out. I do not have any stock 50cc heads, all of my heads are big bore kit heads, possibly that is why all of mine measure 8mm? But then why did the new nut I got for him fit his stock head? Makes me think either they don't sell the "non upgraded" studs and bolts on the scooters around here, or maybe we're talking about different types? I am talking about 50cc studs and bolts.