|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 16, 2015 19:02:03 GMT -5
I ordered a belt from him, it was delivered right away from NY to FL by rocket. :thumbup:
|
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 16, 2015 17:57:09 GMT -5
another good thing to be aware of was brought up in post 8 by ricardo. and that is the maneuverability of your bike. bikers can sometimes avoid accidents that cagers can't. also, wear your gear, preferably leather. do you really think bikers wear leather to look tough? road rash isn't a joke, nor is it funny. the same can be said of boots. there is nothing quite like getting your foot trapped under your scoot and breaking your ankle. letting your scoot down from the center stand makes this all too real. i guess you could just roll it off and let the stand slam a hole in the pan, instead of easing it up with your foot. another area of safety concerns pushing your bike. make sure it's not running. i tries that once, didn't work to well. Totally agree; leather, kevlar, and hard plastic are the only things present on riding gear that keeps you away from road rash, soft cloth, denim and jeans disintegrate the second it touches the pavement, I'm already down on two nice Levis jeans, lol. I tell people: "Think of road rash as if you applied a belt sanding machine with 80 grit straight to your skin, you wouldn't do that, do you? Then why are you riding without gear? You don't choose to fall off the bike, it just happens, it is part of riding a motorcycle".
|
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 16, 2015 14:24:36 GMT -5
3600km bought it used with 2200km. Just change the fluids often and plug every now and then but runs great Check the rollers, while you are at it you can check the belt and clutch as well, that way you will know if everything is as it should be. |
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 16, 2015 11:29:35 GMT -5
Vibration at take off usually means worn down rollers/sliders, they can also get out of place.
|
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 16, 2015 11:18:38 GMT -5
You need BOTH brakes, the thing is to avoid lock-ups, not only on the front brake, also on the rear brake, a rear brake lock-up is a guarantee from your scooter throwing it's butt to the front, most of the weight on scooters is concentrated on the rear wheel. On normal conditions on a straight line you can follow the 70-30 rule, 70% of braking strength on the front, and 30% on the rear, increasing the braking strength gradually as the speed decreases. If you are going slow (traffic jam/filtering speed) on a straight line, you can drag the rear brake to help you with balance; on a turn you shouldn't be using your brakes if you had planned the turn properly, if you are forced to use the brakes for reasons out of your control on a turn (like a cager stopping right in front of you, or something else gets in the way suddenly), you should first put the bike straight and then stop, if you just need to slow down, use the rear brake gently. For emergency braking NEVER EVER apply 100% of braking strength, in most cases instead of braking you should be accelerating away from the troubles (brake then swerve; or swerve then brake, accordingly to the occasion), if you are trapped and can't find a way out on time, use your brakes wisely, since most scooters don't have ABS systems to prevent a lock-up, you can use the "poor man's ABS", apply and release the brakes on quick intervals, that helps to avoid a lock-up.  |
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 15, 2015 15:50:27 GMT -5
after market
|
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 14, 2015 23:36:32 GMT -5
Ride it like you stole it, bores and pistons are reasonably cheap on GY6 engines, you can treat them as consumables.
|
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 14, 2015 14:00:58 GMT -5
off limits
|
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 14, 2015 0:53:11 GMT -5
misfired gun
|
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 12, 2015 20:24:35 GMT -5
(I saw that, ricardo....)  (btb, did you know that hippos are one of the most dangerous animals?) Yep, they kill a lot of people in Africa, they are mean beasts  generation legacy |
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 11, 2015 19:50:25 GMT -5
Also I've watched a few videos on replacing the piston, they never mention if you need to drain the oil first or not.. so I'm assuming no? Yes, replace the oil with dyno oil for brake in; in fact, you have to replace it after just a few miles with the new piston on on the brake in period. |
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 11, 2015 7:48:31 GMT -5
Hippos dangerous
|
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 10, 2015 20:36:34 GMT -5
Ive also noticed when i spin the variator by hand i can hear a light air blowing sound, is this normal? As I'm spinning it the resistance changes, at certain points it's difficult to spin then when it loosens up that's when i hear the air sound When the piston is going up it is harder to move because it is compressing air, when it goes down it is easier to move, that's normal. Have you checked the hoses and carb for vacuum leaks? To do so, get a spray can of carb cleaner, if you manage to get the scooter on, spray some carb cleaner over the hoses, intake manifold and carb, if you hear a change on the engine, that's where your vacuum leak is located. NOTE: Have a fire extinguisher handy, the carb cleaner can catch fire when it gets in contact with the hot spots of the engine. |
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 10, 2015 20:28:01 GMT -5
authoritatively implemented
|
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 9, 2015 23:15:23 GMT -5
If the variator moves, the piston does as well, it is directly attached to the piston rod. Thanks! That's a good tidbit of info I must have missed So thats good news then,I'm really dreading the day I need to open up this engine. Hopefully it's all related to this stuck kickstarter These engines are very simple, they function pretty much like a bicycle, but instead of pedals you have the piston, and instead of gears you have the variator and the clutch. |
|
