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Post by joaoeu on Jun 14, 2013 15:04:51 GMT -5
Even if the plastic engine cover did not melt, you want that gasket in place as best as possible.
Removing that gasket may affect the cooling air-flow from the flywheel fan into the cylinder-head's fins.
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Post by joaoeu on Jun 13, 2013 19:51:41 GMT -5
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Post by joaoeu on Jun 13, 2013 19:46:25 GMT -5
Are AMF Harleys used as Bowling Pins ?  |
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Post by joaoeu on Jun 13, 2013 19:43:05 GMT -5
So I just get used to kick starting for a while. Hey, at least you can claim you exercise when you ride your scooter. |
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Post by joaoeu on Jun 13, 2013 19:29:10 GMT -5
That's an incorrect statement, as some of the larger cc scoots do indeed use a wet clutch system, the Piaggo BMV 350 is one that comes to mind I wasn't aware that they were replacing transmission dry-clutches with wet-clutches. This BV 350 does have wet-clutch, but it does not APPEAR to use the same fluid for both engine and transmission. "And yes, the wet clutch in the BV 350 runs in the hub/gear oil - not in the engine/crankcase oil." modernvespa.com/forum/topic100774Second picture of the thread at another forum shows that the Transmission & Engine Oil are separate. modernvespa.com/forum/topic99624Are there 50cc (or even 150cc) CVT Scoots with Wet-Clutch that use the SAME fluid for both engine & tranny? That is the main issue motorcycle owners have to be aware of. |
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Post by joaoeu on Jun 13, 2013 18:45:48 GMT -5
Amazing the markup in this Loctite stuff, comes down to ONLY $2942/gallon. Liquid Gold. But, that stuff works! |
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Post by joaoeu on Jun 13, 2013 2:19:01 GMT -5
I finally found a place that sells 10w40 motorcycle oil near me (the other places only sell that heavier stuff, like 20w50, etc.) Are you sure Motorcycle Oil makes any difference on CVT Scooters, compared to Car Motor Oil? The main difference between car oil & motorcycle oil, is that motorcycle oil doesn't have "Energy Conserving" additives that car oil has, that can mess with Wet-Clutches found in Manual-Transmission Motorcycle. Scooters don't have Wet-Clutches, so it doesn't have that problem. |
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Post by joaoeu on Jun 13, 2013 1:42:29 GMT -5
What do you guys do(besides zip ties ..lol) to improve the plastic cover installation process,,and keep it from falling off in the future,,i I've heard of using Silicone, like the Home Depot style normally used for caulking. This is for the plastic panels' hardware. For Drivetrain parts that doesn't heat up too much (Variators, Clutch bells), Real Threadlockers is the way to go. On the Exhaust Header, I doubt threadlocker will be of any benefit, as it gets so hot that it should be past the threadlocker's melting point. I end up not doing any of that silicone stuff on the plastic panels anyways, because: (1) I get lazy, and (2) These Cheap-Skoots need to have their plastic panels on-and-off so often for maintenance anyways (carb cleaning, adjustment, etc). I only make sure to tighten them every time I do oil changes on the skoot. If you are missing screws and clips cuz they fell off, someone on EBay sells a bag of these Screws & Clips used on these Plastic Body Panels, for like $20 a bag. |
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Post by joaoeu on Jun 13, 2013 1:32:38 GMT -5
Lots of fakes on the interweb, especially EBay-China and then general EBay, in that order. Need to choose your suppliers carefully, or make a trial-run-purchase from a vendor carefully. Me personally, I will always assume that belts being shipped from EBay-China are only generic and fake styles only. Do I buy from EBay-China suppliers? Absolutely, but I will always analyze if the price difference and risk is worthed the try. |
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Post by joaoeu on Jun 13, 2013 1:16:49 GMT -5
How do people know these Koso's being sent from China are real?
I always assume that anything I'm buying from EBay-China is fake.
Is it worthed the money to try? Maybe.
Do I assume it's real? Never.
Just my 2 cents.
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Post by joaoeu on Jun 13, 2013 0:57:01 GMT -5
In the old forum there used to be a sticky thread about different weight rollers/sliders and the results. I'm interested in getting a variator set, but I don't really know where to start with the weights. The set I'm looking at has 12g weights with a 1000k spring, and that seems a little heavy to me. Repeating people's opinion in previous posts & forum, BEFORE you start buying all kinds of parts, the ideal thing is to: 1. Measure the weight of your current rollers. 2. Measure the weight of your main-variator assembly. 3. Measure the weight of your variator face plate. Then, once you decide the weights you want to buy based on your existing setup, change only one setup at a time to test the difference. If you change the variator, face plate, rollers/sliders, clutch springs, and belt all at once ... Well, if it bogs down to a worst setup or if it improves, you have no idea what contributed it. Lastly, never buy roller weights based on someone else's setup. You can use other's setup as "experience" to decide the weight difference you want, but you better know the weights of your existing transmission parts, otherwise is a complete shot in the dark. If you don't know, start measuring to get a baseline. |
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Post by joaoeu on Jun 13, 2013 0:49:23 GMT -5
I'm none too familiar with 150cc weights, but that does seem heavy UNLESS you have a performance variator which is lighter than stock. From my recollection, 150cc weights vary from 12g to 17g. It seems most of new scooters have it in the 12g range, I guess with their 12-13inch rims. 10in donut 150cc scoots tend to have the heavier 17g as stock. My 10in 150cc did have 17, and I have since changed it to 14g sliders. |
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Post by joaoeu on Jun 8, 2013 0:36:22 GMT -5
Now, what do I do about not having the exhaust gasket? Am I in danger of ruining my engine without it? I never had one to begin with, so I'm confuzzled. Yes indeed, you WILL ruin your engine. As with any piston engine: 1. No exhaust gasket will ... 2. Lead to exhaust leak at the header & muffler, and will ... 3. Lead to no backpressure on those valves, and will ... 4. Lead to Valves running hot, and will ... 5. Lead to "burning" (wearing out) your Valves , and it will ... 6. Lead to compression leaks as well as potential ... 7. Valve damage dropping pieces into the piston & cylinder ... then a. Damage piston and scratch cylinder walls ... Just cause & effect ... That's all folks ... |
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Post by joaoeu on Jun 8, 2013 0:19:38 GMT -5
In addition, if you do change, you better re-tune your carburetor (jets and/or air-fuel adjustment).
Otherwise, the performance may be worse, and the engine could run leaner and on the way to ruining the valves.
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Post by joaoeu on Jun 6, 2013 13:33:58 GMT -5
Can you buy them if you are not a reseller?
What about as a non-reseller from CA? (it looks like they are based in CA)
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