One thing to mention, it is a shifty like my P200E. Four gears, and they all seem smooth.
The problem I'm having right now is that I can't seem to get it to idle without the choke completely closed. It's almost as if there's an air leak somewhere, but I can't see anywhere that it could. I pulled the carb apart and cleaned everything. I even polished the intake tube a little. It's like one of the worst castings I've ever seen.
The thing that concerned me was what came out of the carb. It was yellow. I mean, like this :
Mind you, this bike is six years old with just about 650 miles on the odometer. I don't know how long that gas has been in the tank. I was thinking of draining the tank, but if I don't have to I won't. It runs, just not well.
I checked the plug, and they have a Denso iridium in there. Good stuff, so I left it alone. I changed the oil today and it's possible that it had never been changed before . Ugly stuff.
So, if this is a bad thing then it's totally not my fault. If it's cool, then it was completely intentional and you can all be jealous.
The local Chinese scooter dealer that I bought my first ride from got ahold of me last week to come look at a bike. He said it was an old Stella that he took in from a kid who was moving and just wanted to get rid of it. He thought it might make a nice parts bike for my '79 P200E.
Well, the first thing that I noticed is that it had been painted Ford engine block blue with a brush and a roller. Yeah ... not a deal breaker for parts, though. The next thing I noticed is that it wouldn't start. Yeah ... maybe a deal breaker. It wasn't stuck, though. We pulled the shroud off and the NEXT thing I see is a 4T engine.
Just out of curiosity, we opened the carb and juiced it a little. It fired right up. It actually sounded good. Until it stopped, of course.
So, here I am looking at a bike and ... wait ... the odometer says 670. Literally less than 700 miles on the bike. He showed me the title. The kid was the original owner. I have the 2012 title from the dealer where it was purchased new with the kid's name on it. I told Jason that even with low miles I couldn't justify buying a bike with crap paint and very few parts that I can actually use. I have plenty of projects.
I asked him how much he had into it. He said he gave the kid $200 for it and I could have it for $250.
So now I can't not buy it. I brought the carb home Saturday and pulled it apart. I even did some polishing on the intake tube. It was an awful casting. I figured it couldn't hurt.
Yesterday I put the carb back on and she fired right up. I rode it around the parking lot and the cables felt good. Even the neutral light works. I put insurance on it today and hopefully a plate is today or tomorrow.
So now I have a four stroke Stella in the herd. I have all kinds of curiosities now. What kind of mileage will I get compared to my Chinese 150 with the CVT? How fast will the Genuine 150 with four gears push me? Will I like it so much that I decide not to resell it and turn a profit (the plan as it stands)?
I brought it home yesterady, did very limited tweaking and rode it around the block. When I hit 4th I looked down and the speedo said 60. Everything feels smooth and tight, as it should. It’s essentially a new bike.
I have a lot of things to consider now. We own 4.5 scooters. I have to insure and tag four of them. I’m really afraid I’m going to like this one.
seamus26......Your belt number tells me you have 10' wheels, and that means a short case 150cc engine. backroadbaron's 12" wheels will not fit on a short case, so his is definitely a long case 150......the long case uses an 835-20-30......some prefer the 842-20-30.
I use the Gates Premium....part number PL30705 on my long case.
Yeppers. You're exactly right. And the wrong one that I got at the dealer was likely for the long case.
Good advice. The old one was spiral wrapped and sleeved. If the new one isn't I might just do that.. I didn't actually see where the leak was. All I know is that the hose was wet above the pressure fitting at the wheel, so it was in the line somewhere.
On my way home Friday I noticed my front brake was a little squishy. I have 6K miles on the bike and I've never so much as had to check the brake fluid, so I pulled the cover and topped it off. My wife and I were just putting on our helmets to go for a ride. When I started the bike I pulled front brake lever and it slowly pulled all the way to the grip. Then I saw the puddle.
We decided to take the dog for a ride in the truck instead, but we swung by the shop for a new front brake line first. Saturday afternoon I decided that I'd just simply swap the line out and we'd go for a ride. I knew it was either going to be ten minutes or an hour.
It's never ten minutes.
I found that the line is bolted to a bracket on the fork that you can't get to unless you remove the whole front fender. Now I know how to do that. And the easiest way to get to it is remove the whole front cowl. Now I know how to do that.
An hour and a drawer full of many different sized screws later, I had it apart. Yay.
And the new line didn't fit. Too short and the angles on the fittings were wrong.
With five minutes to spare I went screaming back up to the shop. They were just closing. I have to go back today and they have to order one.
Last Edit: Oct 23, 2017 3:26:23 GMT -5 by seamus26
the bottom line is, rotating machinery can be deadly. DO NOT fool yourself into thinking they aren't
There was an account in John Muir's book "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" about a girl working on her Beetle with the engine running. She had failed to put her beautiful blonde ponytail under a cap. After ripping the ponytail off her head with the spinning belt/pulley system, she hung it from her rear view mirror as a reminder.
Great book, if you ever have a chance to read it.
Oh, and as far as how you clean stuff out of a covered CVT ...
Yeah, she's running better than ever now. I can feel the difference in the new belt. My maintenance schedule now includes just replacing it at 2k miles. Between that and the valve adjustment she's like a new bike.
Let me tell you about my ride Saturday. I took the ZNEN out (solo) because I'd been in a little bit of a funk and wanted to clear my head. It was a beautiful ride. I was on my way home after about 40 miles of back roads when it started to rain. I thought, "I'm really glad I put my windshield back on for this ride. I'll be ok". I had even treated it with Rain X, so vision wasn't a problem. Then I heard the pop and lost all power. My drive belt broke. Did I mention it was raining?
Fortunately, I carry a tool kit and a spare belt. "I'll be ok", I thought to myself. I pulled over, got out my tool kit, removed the CVT cover and realized that the spare belt the dealer had sold me was about five inches too long. Did I mention that it was raining? Oh, and my socket set went up to 14mm. The variator nut ... 16mm.
I called the dealer, who was already closed. Fortunately, it's a small place and the number is Jason's (the owner) cell phone. He answered and I explained what had happened. He had one of his techs run into the shop and, based on the few numbers I could decipher from the chunks of rubber I had pulled out of my CVT, put the proper belt in the mailbox.
I called my wife and asked her to swing by the shop, grab my bigger toolbox and meet me by my paralyzed bike. I really wish the rain would stop.
About half an hour later, my wife arrived with the belt. She remembered to bring our dog but forgot ... the toolbox. Actually, in her defense, she remembered to put the toolbox in the truck, but at the last minute decided, because of where I was located, to bring her car because it was easier to park alongside the road. Aaaand forgot to transfer the toolbox.
So, as the sun began to set, she ran to Walmart, leaving me once again stranded by my bike, to buy a set of sockets.
I successfully finished the job and we made it home around 9:00 last night. I say successfully, but I didn't bother putting the cover back on or the bike together. That all went in the trunk and I finished up the job on Sunday. If I had actually had the right socket and the right belt that two hour plus ordeal would have been half an hour tops.
Guess what size spare belt I now have and which socket went in my tool kit.
Man, I feel for you. I just did my first valve adjustment on my 2013 ZNEN 150. I had about 5300 miles on it and the cold start issue was a symptom. I replaced the plug because it was time, the battery because Michigan winters are unkind and and cleaned the carburetor because I enjoy it. It was still starting hard and idling rough when it was cold. It seemed to run better when it was warm, but something just wasn't right.
I grew up adjusting VW valves, so I wasn't afraid of it, at least. Perhaps I should have been.
The whole process took me about two hours. A full 1:50 was spent actually getting to the valves. Now, I'm not a violent man, but Chinese "engineers" had me thinking of all sorts of creative ways to weaponize whatever tool was in my hand. The intake valve checked at .004", which was where I planned on setting them both, so I left it alone. The exhaust valve, which I could not actually see, I attempted to check by feel, once I figured out which elbow I had to dislocate to reach it from underneath while I watched from the top. There was no measurable gap. That explained all of my problems; the cylinder just wasn't sealing up because the valve wasn't closing. I used a method that V-Dubbers used to call the "trapped feeler method" (thank you, John Muir) and it worked perfectly.
It was the best two hours I've ever spent on that bike. It's like a brand new machine. Anyone who hasn't done this to their bike should take the time and effort to do so. It's few tools and with a little bit of instruction anyone could. With only one cylinder and two valves, it doesn't take much to throw the whole system off.
Sorry to hear about the additional troubles you had. I would go out on a limb and say that once the valves are set you'll notice a big difference.
We were good here in Michigan all through November. We dipped down into the 20s, but without any snow.
As it is now we have a good 10" of standing snow on the garage roof and all of the secondary roads are snow/slush covered and slippery. I haven't ridden since the snow began to fall. Once there's a chance for ice to be on the roads in the morning (we've had a few mornings with sub double digit wind chills) I appreciate the fact that I also love to drive my car.
That and the fact that even if the temps get up to the point where the snow and ice are melting it turns the roads into a slurry of concentrated salt water keep me off two wheels until things really start drying up.
I will ride well down into the low 20s, but I don't ride when there's the possibility of ice on the roads. Bundling up will keep you warm, but stopping a two-wheeler in the slippery stuff is totally different than stopping a car. It's not only your own safety you have to think about, but the safety of those around you.
The other issue that we have here in Michigan is the fact that they salt the roads when it starts getting cold and snowy. Everyone knows the cancer that happens to your car with salt. Scoots (although newer ones are mostly plastic) can succumb to the same fate. My old Vespa stays off the road until after the salt has washed off in the spring.
I'll probably do a rear brake conversion at some point just to keep from developing bad habits (if I keep it).
yes, it's important to get a good grip on how you use your brakes. i found out the hard way to NEVER EVER use your front brake on mud. talk about doing a sprawled face plant . . . maybe someone should start a thread on the perils and pitfalls of incorrect braking.
So, here's what you do ...
Love the CVT for what it is. I love my ZNEN 150 and have found that there's all sorts of "tuning" that you can do by adjusting the roller weights. I just went to a Dr. Pulley this past fall with 15g rollers. I will probably lighten them up a little in the spring and try staggering the weights, just to see the difference it makes.
Then ... buy an old Vespa. I have a '79 P200E. It's a 2-stroke, 4 speed, drum brake, steel beast that will easily top 60 very quickly. Clutch and shifter are on the left grip, front brake is on the right and the rear brake is on the floor on the right. And it sounds incredibly cool. It will satisfy your desire for a clutch, give you carpal tunnel, make you smell like oil and put a huge bug-riddled smile on your face.
I love both bikes for different reasons, but love them I do.
Last Edit: Dec 18, 2016 6:22:24 GMT -5 by seamus26