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Post by scooter on Aug 28, 2015 15:44:20 GMT -5
Last update just for horace and lain. EDit- O' and how stupid is the fuel float that reads 1/4 tank when it's about 3/4. Pretty useless. Both my scoots do this. . That fuel sender is an easy fix. Take out the sender and bend the float wire until it reads what you want. Videos available here and on youtube. #fixscooterfuelgauge If your float is damaged, you might ask your local scooter dealer for a float off of a bad unit. You can buy the whole sender with float on ebay for about $15 I think. |
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Post by scooter on Aug 27, 2015 0:40:27 GMT -5
On the welder some jurisdictions require certifications and such along with liability bonds/insurances if you are welding commercially especially structural parts on motor vehicles. So you may want to vet that out before investing too deeply. I welded in a shop however anything that was structural or especially client facing had to be inspected or supervised by a licensed certified welder or a credentialed structural engineer. Good points. |
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Post by scooter on Aug 27, 2015 0:09:53 GMT -5
So I removed the Uni-filter to view the needle assembly during start. What I saw was the needle/air valve bouncing as the engine cranked, due to the vacuum being generated I assume. It would seem to me that my mixture is too lean with the throttle off and by opening to about 1/4 the vacuum is causing the needle valve to open briefly, introducing more fuel to the mixture. Appreciate any thoughts on my theory... Cheers, Mark.  Know this: Your vacuum pressure will be at its highest when the throttle is closed, and you will lose vacuum pressure as you open the throttle. It may drop from 15 in/Hg at idle, down to less than 1 in/Hg at top speed. (However this is despite the fact that fuel pressure will rise as RPM goes up, indicating a difference between vacuum pressure, and the rate at which it is applied. That is to say, a lot of little pulses are still more powerful than a few big ones.) The vacuum level on a gauge will jump up and down at idle. The air slider will jump up as the piston is sucking air into the intake, then it will drop back down while the piston is compressing and exhausting. As we rev the engine, it reads a steady reading as throttle is applied, dropping almost to zero at WOT. It would appear that, at least until the idler circuit shuts off, that you are getting fuel from the idle circuit AND from the running circuit as well. Because of this apparent intermingling of circuits, which is beyond my learning, it would seem best to set the main jet to make the bike run fast, but cool, and then go back and work on the idler circuit while NOT adding throttle. Or vice versa, the point being to isolate the problem to one circuit or the other. Perhaps try determining the starting problem this way: Set the idle down to around 1500-1600 RPM while the engine is running, then shut it off, or let it die if it's going to, and try to start it without throttle. If it won't start, then close off some of the filter with your hand, or something, and try again. If it then cranks, then you needed more fuel to your idler circuit. If not, then it would seem you need less fuel or have some other issue. |
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Post by scooter on Aug 26, 2015 0:32:39 GMT -5
Ah, Ok. There is some wear on the front... bushing? should i worry about that? I doubt it, but I couldn't say from here. |
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Post by scooter on Aug 25, 2015 17:41:15 GMT -5
Hello Dawgs! I've been up and down this forum looking for a similar problem...but no luck. I finally broke down and will submit my situation to the community, hope you can help me. Ride: - 2008 150cc GY6, distributed by Saga Canada, basically your typical Chinese scooter. Valves adjusted to 0.004/0.006 intake/exhaust. Mostly stock except; Installed NEW: - Replaced the stock carb with the same model, but better quality. 35 idle jet / 120 main jet - Removed the stock air box, installed a Uni Filter - Installed iridium spark plug - New battery installed - Vacuum lines all new - Fuel filter new Symptoms: - Scoot requires several seconds of cranking (5 - 10s) to start. I have to crack the throttle about 25% open to get it to finally catch. More or less throttle and it won't catch
- Once it is running the scoot seems to run ok, although a little less power than before the new parts were installed. (maybe the main jet isn't quite right?) - I'm having trouble getting the idle right. Been messing with A/F screw but it doesn't want to idle under 2000 rpm...but over 2000 my drive is starting to kick in. I'm thinking my A/F mixture is not right when at idle but not sure if it is too lean or too rich. By opening the throttle am I adding more air to lean out the mixture? Or adding more fuel to rich'en it up? Scoot used to start within 1 - 2s of cranking....not sure what is going on now...I'm afraid I'm going to get stuck somewhere and run the battery down trying to get started. Appreciate any help you can offer. Cheers, Mark. Try this short video. See how he adjusts the carb, what he's listening for, and he discusses when to rejet. . |
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Post by scooter on Aug 25, 2015 15:54:10 GMT -5
For $1,000 I would consider a renting a welder or hiring the work out unless I really had need for that costly a welder. You could simply buy a few new motors for that money or even a new bike. I'm putting together tools for a scooter shop. From what I can tell, if you offer aluminum welding services here, people will be calling you with work. I like that welder for $450, then add on for a cart and a tank of gas, and it's a bit more. Home Depot offers a three year protection plan for an additional $100. Some of the reviews on it were great, and some bad, so the warranty is probably a good idea. Anyway, someone is supposed to be welding the case soon, so I don't have to deal with the welder issue right now. Of course I still want the welder, but my "gut" isn't feeling it either way, so I'll wait and see what happens. |
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Post by scooter on Aug 25, 2015 15:32:14 GMT -5
cheese sandwich
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Post by scooter on Aug 25, 2015 15:29:52 GMT -5
Ok, picture post time.  Shouldn't these connect? No. The little gear will jump out onto the other gear, engage the other gear, when you crank the engine. |
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Post by scooter on Aug 25, 2015 15:10:34 GMT -5
I was riding home on my hotrodded dr350 after work,, this thing is quick,, very quick,,, a older gent pulls up next to me on a heritage Harley nods at me and smokes my dumb ,,, a month later methusella comes into my shop and I recognize him,,( he had on the same gear) so we get to talking about his project and I get the job,,, he turns out to be  years old ,,rides everyday rain or shine,,, as long as you can swing a leg over and hold the thing up you're good,, I asked him " when you gonna stop ridin?",,, he says" never",,,probably when I die",,, as long as I can get on it hold it up I'm good to go" I agree. I say the same thing about sex. |
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Post by scooter on Aug 25, 2015 15:06:29 GMT -5
Your brake light switch or switches may be broken, leaving the brake lights always turned on.
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Post by scooter on Aug 24, 2015 20:02:02 GMT -5
30-40 ft/lbs off the top of my head.
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Post by scooter on Aug 24, 2015 15:21:21 GMT -5
Reactor Core
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Post by scooter on Aug 23, 2015 3:41:56 GMT -5
Hopefully I'll have it all done tomorrow on my day off--- bolts out and forks on. I'd rather be in the sun doing it than my clustered garage anyway. Those phillip screw heads suck in that location. I knew they were going to be a pain. I'd have no problem getting them out with a socket if they were that style. Oh well. Lol. I think I'll take the hex/washer route myself hillbillybob. Obviously I have no idea what you are working on, but you might find a socket with a phillips head on it, and perhaps a universal joint if it's in a tight space, helpful. Using an impact wrench may help to avoid stripping heads if that's an issue. |
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Post by scooter on Aug 23, 2015 3:10:52 GMT -5
 They appear to have come out of that era right before BMS decided that everything they did was going to get chrome. So, we looked at the black muffler guard and a couple of other things and said THIS is the bike we're going to beef up beyond all recognition. Here is the chance to get in now with suggestions. Some of them I've heard, MANY of them I've read. We're going to do this up as far as reason allows. Any suggestions on the best BBK for a 150cc that we can put in without major boring or overhaul? How would you jet? Tell us what YOU would do to make THIS bike the performance dream machine. I'm going to start ordering parts on Monday, and immediately put our new mechanic on working on it at least a little every day he's in... our hope is to have a beautifully customized dream-scoot ready for sale in a couple of weeks. Please help us get there! If you really want to go performance, I would not rule out boring the case. It can be done with a drill and a $150 tool. If I did a big bore, and a big cam, I'd want to make sure my bearings and case, as well as the variator and belt, could handle the extra stress. How this information is found, I have no idea. Maybe there's a book on bearing and housing thickness vs horsepower somewhere? Short of that, everyone seems to like "free flow" intakes and exhausts, BBKs, stroker cranks, lopier cams, and "performance" coils and things, and with more horsepower comes variator tuning and possibly a drive gear change. You might put a picture of a hornet on it to warn people that it's got a powerful sting in spite of its classic scooter look. |
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Post by scooter on Aug 22, 2015 11:43:50 GMT -5
Give me some tips on buying a welder, guys. I am finding nothing inexpensive on craigslist. This one looks nice. Runs on 110 or 220 about $1,000 www.homedepot.com/p/Longevity-Tigweld-200SX-200-Amp-TIG-Welder-with-Dual-Voltage-Technology-444510/205219199This one is half the price but looks like it needs a spool gun to do aluminum. www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-Weld-Pak-140-HD-Wire-Feed-Welder-K2514-1/100670934$640, comes with foot pedal www.homedepot.com/p/Lotos-200-Amp-AC-DC-TIG-Welder-with-Foot-Pedal-TIG200/205864802$400, says it does aluminum www.homedepot.com/p/Everlast-PowerArc-200ST-Stick-TIG-welder-PowerArc-200ST/204629247I like this one. $450 and is also a plasma cutter and stick welding machine. That sounds like it may be a good deal. www.homedepot.com/p/Lotos-50-Amp-Plasma-Cutter-with-200-Amp-TIG-Welder-and-200-Amp-Stick-Welder-Combo-CT520D/205450327Comes with a torch, regulator, tips and nozzles, a plasma cutting torch, a stick welding lead, a ground cable, and it's finger operated instead of foot pedal. I haven't tried that but maybe it's great.  |
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years old ,,rides everyday rain or shine,,, as long as you can swing a leg over and hold the thing up you're good,, I asked him " when you gonna stop ridin?",,, he says" never",,,probably when I die",,, as long as I can get on it hold it up I'm good to go"
