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Post by scooter on Mar 27, 2015 20:14:42 GMT -5
It's nice but you can get a modular full face with bluetooth for that price. same vintage look? theirs no other company that make them like that... at all I didn't know you were looking for a vintage look. The one you chose certainly fits the bill then. |
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Post by scooter on Mar 27, 2015 15:32:31 GMT -5
I'll have the whole week off, I'm planning on making a trip on my scoot to the beach, not decided yet whether going to the Atlantic (Limon, Costa Rica) or the Pacific (Guanacaste, Costa Rica or Puntarenas, Costa Rica). Panama is an option, haven't been there yet, but I'm not sure the scoot can deal with such distance (+-300 miles round trip).  Pacific |
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Post by scooter on Mar 27, 2015 15:31:10 GMT -5
It's nice but you can get a modular full face with bluetooth for that price. |
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Post by scooter on Mar 25, 2015 22:39:01 GMT -5
I have a cfmoto Fashion 250. I was working on the exhaust and, after a ride, I noticed my back tire and rim were too hot to touch. I was really worried about it so I wrapped the exhaust with exhaust wrap material and, while that seemed to keep the tire a lot cooler, it's still so hot that I can't put my hand closer than about an inch from it when it's running, and there is only about 3/4 to 7/8" from the pipe, coming out of the engine, to the tire. Should I be worried? Anyone else notice this on their 250's? Can the tire take the heat?
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Post by scooter on Mar 25, 2015 22:22:58 GMT -5
Wow I really do feel tough now! I'm in a scooter gang! Look out 's Angels! We are on the loose!  |
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Post by scooter on Mar 25, 2015 17:47:42 GMT -5
Thats fine scooter your right Im sorry....I just got a problem with having to be too honest and truthful about the country and how its run.Sometimes it gets the best of me,I will try to restraint myself from that here on this forum from now on and keep it to scooters only. Tom From Jersey... Right on. But if you DO find someone who is happy with the government, call Ripley's Believe it or Not right away!  |
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Post by scooter on Mar 25, 2015 17:43:22 GMT -5
>snip<
17) Sprag clutch and new rims. Since the rear wheel is only 12" and the front 13", solid disc rims won't have much of an effect from side winds. The new solid disc rear rim will house a Stieber ALF2D2 30-500 sprag clutch so I can idle back and coast without engine braking or geartrain drag slowing the bike down. >snip< 19) I've been looking into the Forkless Front End setup, with hubless rim. This would stretch the bike, contributing to stability, while allowing the front wheel to be fully faired to cut drag. This would be a project that is far in the future, though. I Looked up sprag clutch... This would be a much simpler solution than trying to include a manual clutch and would be nearly just as effective. But it does eliminate any engine braking so all braking would have to come from the brakes on the bike. ABS & Dual front disks would be a good idea then. There are bikes that use hub-center steering. And that would certainly make it easier to keep a smaller frontal area than the more conventional telescopic fork arrangement that most bikes have. Extra cool factor if the wheels are hubless making the wheel/rim the hub itself. Braking surfaces far out from the center of rotation has much more leverage. And I seem to recall that the hub-center geometry makes the bike far less prone to nose dive in braking (among other benefits) helping to make handling much more predictable and safer. I'm liking this idea more and more! edit: Just one other idea to add to the exotic treatment some of the engine parts are getting. Cryogenic hardening; a very cold treatment at the other end of the temperature range than heat treating metal parts, but with similar results. Would using stronger clutch pad springs let you coast more? They might pull the pads off of the clutch sooner and let you coast a bit, unless they can't let go because the wheel is keeping the clutch spinning too fast. You'd get a bit more oomph off the line too. I think I will try some. What's the worst that could happen? |
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Post by scooter on Mar 25, 2015 17:33:51 GMT -5
Could someone confirm for me if I understand rollers correctly. Heavier rollers make take-off harder and makes it harder to go up hills from a stop, but also raise the top speed slightly? Lighter rollers makes the engine able to get to higher revs with less effort, but costs some top speed? What would the minimum for a 50mm "100cc" BBK be? 8? Would it be dangerous o try my 5g rollers? Would it maybe allow the engine to rev TOO high? Just trying to understand a little bit, I'm contemplating going outside on this wonderful 48 degree day to mess with my rollers lol That's the simplified version. Here's the straight dope on weights. You need enough weight to open the variator fully. Any less and you will lose top end. Any more and your bike will gear up at lower RPMs.
If you have good acceleration and you are cruising at high RPMs, you might benefit by adding more weight. If you have poor acceleration, you can drop the weight. Use a tachometer to take readings while accelerating, and a top end. If you are revving too low then drop weight and/or add shims. If you are revving too high then add weight and/or remove shims or shave the boss length. Shims are the answer when you can't find a balance of acceleration and top end RPMs. Shims raise and lower the entire gear "set". Adding shims increases high and low end RPMs. Removing shims decreases high and low end RPMs. If you are using the lightest weights you can, and you still can't reach your target RPMs then add shims. Shims reduce the whole gear set, as said above, but if your engine can't rev high enough at top end then adding shims can actually increase your top speed by allowing your engine to reach max HP. A standard GY6 150 is said to have max torque at 6500 RPM and max HP at 7000. A 125 has max HP at 7000 RPM. A 50cc has max HP at 7500. It's all about RPMs. The "right" RPMs are where your maximum power is, however, it's up to you how high you want to rev during acceleration, cruising, and top end, and the tach is the tool that will tell you if you're where you want to be. |
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Post by scooter on Mar 25, 2015 16:50:12 GMT -5
Oooh... idea. Rather than a whole balancer that bolts behind the flywheel, why not just make a tube partially filled with mercury that fits inside the existing flywheel? Much simpler construction, no chance of it flying apart at high RPM (since the flywheel is the supporting structure)... I've got to think of a way of fastening it into the flywheel, though. It doesn't have to be mercury. You can use a safer material. I believe tiny ball bearings can be used as a balancer too. Don't cars have something called a harmonic balancer, like a flywheel with a rubber bushing in it? |
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Post by scooter on Mar 24, 2015 19:24:56 GMT -5
Did you see were the inner city students and parents are complaining because a very high percentage of the students cannot pass their classes , so they are complaining because its too hard ! They want there schools to dumb down the education so they can pass , lol . its everyone else's fault , not their own . Rant on---------Thats funny cause we already have one of the dumbest education systems in the world,,the government has restrained us from way back,,they do not want us to get smarter than them...did you ever see how smart kids are in other countries compared to us,,like Japan or Finland,,some pretty smart fellers out there.With the internet now I have been getting smarter,,wish I had this tool back when I was a kid...had to learn everything the hard way then,,now we have all these forums,youtube vids,and google,,I saw a couple teenage boys get a flat tire and they had to google a video on how to change it,,what are these kids or this generation going to do if the SHTF,,I feel sorry for them... Sorry Rant over---------------- I agree about the internet and I'd say they deserve some credit for learning on their own instead of throwing their hands up and calling roadside service. They didn't know something and they took the time to learn it. That's why I come here, because I'm a scooter noob.  I disagree about the political rants lately though. We're all riders here, brothers and sisters, helping each other learn about scooters, and I think we should stick to that. I don't want to run people off by making them feel unwelcome. |
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Post by scooter on Mar 24, 2015 19:18:59 GMT -5
Hi, all. I just purchased six flush-mount 3-watt white LED lights. www.oznium.com/led-bolt They're the kind you drill a hole through the body and tighten the nut behind it. I intend to put them on the front of the bike and wire them into the high-beam, so they'll also flash on and off when my headlight modulator is activated, increasing my daytime conspicuity. They have a wide beam dispersion, almost 180 degrees. I'm trying to decide the best pattern to put them in. I want at least two of them angled toward the side of the bike, so cars pulling into the roadway from parking lots or side streets see me more easily. Not at a  degree angle to the bike's direction of travel, of course, but perhaps as much as 45 degrees. Here's a frontal shot of the Yager from a review at JustGottaScoot: www.justgottascoot.com/yager.htmwww.justgottascoot.com/images/YagerRadiatorDash.jpgI'm thinking right along that bottom section of the dark gray body panel, two toward the front, two at about halfway back. The remaining two pointing straight down to illuminate the wheel area so people know they're looking at a motorcycle and not a car with only one headlight. So, ideas for placing the six LEDS? I'm just starting on mine. After checking state statutes, I'm putting a few under the wheel wells and some strips in a few places. |
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Post by scooter on Mar 24, 2015 19:09:48 GMT -5
Hi, oldchopperguy. Actually, I was on the site back in 2011 when I was looking for a scooter to replace my ill-fated Tank 150 scooter, which was of such low quality that it literally fell apart after a mere 10,000 miles. I ended up getting a 2010 Kymco Yager GT 200i (new, but it'd sat on the showroom floor for a year). It had 1 mile on it when I got it. It's been an awesome bike, no problems whatsoever, a very strong engine. It's down right now for new hybrid ceramic bearings and taller rear gears. I'll hopefully have it back together and running within a month or so, depending upon how long it takes MicroBlue to get the rear gears micro-polished and tungsten-sulfide coated. I can't tell you how many times my headlight modulator has saved me... it commands attention. Especially since I'd been running an ultra-bright headlight. You could see the flashing two blocks ahead on reflective signs during the day. Each headlight only lasted a year or so, but very bright. I'll be putting a 30-watt LED headlight in it. Not as bright as the halogen that was in it (about 75% of the brightness), so I'm looking to increase my conspicuity with additional LEDs. I want a modulator but I'm afraid it might be misunderstood seeing as there is no official blinking headlight language. "Look honey, he's flashing his lights to tell you to go ahead and pull out. How nice of him!"  |
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Post by scooter on Mar 24, 2015 18:15:20 GMT -5
The 15.03 and the 14. difference kinda concerns me. I'd have to use my dremmel to make them all the exact same weight . fixing the .1g difference may make the variator run a little smoother. How much ? May not be noticeable to the human ear or eye but I would imagine it would be better for the cvt especially in the long run . As the variator spins the weight of the rollers doubles , triples and so on , so a .1g difference soon becomes .2 .4 and so on . I wonder what the weight of an 11 gram roller becomes as it is spinning at 7500 rpms ? We could be talking about a couple gram difference at 7500 rpms , this may be enough to cause an imbalance and an unsmooth rotation ? You should ask RCQ. I'm sure he'd know. |
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Post by scooter on Mar 22, 2015 18:01:47 GMT -5
Oh oh,
Now we ARE getting crazy! How's this one? Not a lot of ground-clearance, but I love the hubless wheels! Bet it would be a real booger on speed-bumps... LOL! Upon a closer squint, I believe that drive-chain gets a tad too close to one's posterior for comfort, too...
Y'all got me thinking on the updated Vespa look. I'll get on it as see what my old eyes can manage... Ride safe! Leo It's a beaut' Leo but you're right. It'd take a city block to make a turn and that chain would probably leave the bum sore. |
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Post by scooter on Mar 22, 2015 10:04:45 GMT -5
The gas leak problem is a recent issue and I think all of my recent problems are compression related. It definitely seems to be the hardest to start when the temperature is the coldest. And right now heading into spring or as i like to call it (sprinter) spring/winter the temperatures can vary widely here around chicago from below freezing to 60's almost 70's right now were averaging a high of 50 to a low of 30 but it could definitely get colder or warmer than that I thought I was still breaking the bbk in but with a compression of 180 im not sure what weight oil to use. besides being difficult to start i think the high compression was opening up my valve gaps. I noticed when I would slow down for a stop light or stop sign the scooter was starting to die at first i thought i was being fuel starved because of a bad petcock because it didnt look like there was any fuel in the filter. so i bypassed the petcock for a little bit but was still having the same problem so then i checked the valve gaps and they were a lot wider than i usually set them so i adjusted them back to normal .04 ish maybe .03 - .04 for intake and .04 - .05 for exhaust then i reconnected the petcock and sucked on the vacuum to it to prime the filter could i have damaged it doing this to cause my gas leak? and then when i went to try and start my scooter with the cold temps, high compression and possibly faulty petcock i think thats what lead me to all my problems now. So im looking at getting better battery cables do i need to upgrade the negative ground wire too or just the positive? and maybe getting a manual petcock. And then maybe switching oil weight but im not sure if i should try a 10w 5w or 0w. Thanks everybody for all the help I really appreciate it. Im going nuts here trying to figure all this crap out. If we're talking inches then the gap is way too big. If you're talking mm it's too small. Where is the gas leaking from? You need both wires to carry the amperage for the starter. |
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degree angle to the bike's direction of travel, of course, but perhaps as much as 45 degrees.
difference kinda concerns me. I'd have to use my dremmel to make them all the exact same weight . fixing the .1g difference may make the variator run a little smoother. How much ? May not be noticeable to the human ear or eye but I would imagine it would be better for the cvt especially in the long run . 
