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Post by scooter on Jul 16, 2015 16:14:02 GMT -5
The standard ChinaTrunk is a 2-piece clamshell (upper and lower) joined in the middle with little screws. A plastic chrome stirip goes around the thing to cover the screws (and the i9ndernt where the 2 pieces meet). I couldn't find an aftermarket LED strip and had to make my own. An LED strip from a china supplier (about $15 deliverd to USA). Then a piece of clear vinyl tubing from Home Depot, cut into 2 shells lengthwise. The LED went into a shell and clear silicone was added. Then the OEM chrome strip was pulled off (just 2-sided sticky tape) and the LED assembly glued on. Maybe $20 plus labor - if you hired a college student you could make up 50 or 100 in a day's work.
I think this would be a GREAT dealer add-on...
Same with air horns. I think you're 100% correct on all fronts. As a practical matter, I have a question. My wife and I closed our restaurant after 5 years on the first of this year. It was a good thing, prefacing a move to San Diego and our intent to open a new one downtown. That has been delayed due to one thing and another and we're doing this now... we're really excited about this! But I digress. Our restaurant was a stand-alone building tucked back in the corner of a poorly lit parking lot as part of a daytime office mall. The landlords, notoriously cheap, refused to fix the ballasts in our sign and instead tried all forms of lighting tricks to illuminate it externally rather than pay to actually make it work. Finally, we got tired of hearing from customers that they couldn't tell if we were open by looking at the building and we bought enough bright LED ropelight to outline every corner, rail and eave of the exterior. We joked when we'd finished that it was the only spot in the mountains that you could see from orbit (except for a forest fire... when you live under constant threat you can get a pretty macabre sense of humor about some things). But over time we started to hear the same complaints from customers again. The lights had grown dim. Whether it was yellowing of the plastic tubing or dimming of the bulbs or, it seems more likely, a combination of the two, the LED lights didn't last for us long term. Have you noticed your lights getting dimmer over time, whether from UV exposure or simply bulb quality? We paid for and thought we had received about the best ropelight we could buy. Spent many hundreds of dollars on the things, only to have them not last long term. I am using waterproof LED strip lighting on my scooter. They sell the large 50/50 type on ebay for about $1.25 per foot, or about $20 for a 15 foot roll. I think the power is about 1/2 to 1 amp per meter if I'm not mistaken. They are quite bright but I can't tell you how long they will last. I would use a good regulated power source for them if possible. They should last several years. These waterproof ones have silicon over the lights, but if you have a waterproof enclosure, you can get ones without the silicon and they may last longer, being able to dissipate heat better perhaps. I would not put the lights in a tube or tight enclosure if I could help it, as it may cause heat buildup and lead to premature failure. There are also smaller lights that use less power per meter of length, but I don't know if that would make them last longer or not. These strips are interesting in that they seem to have some protective circuitry built in. There's no math, no installing resistors, or anything else to worry about. If you hook them up backwards, it doesn't blow them up or anything, and the same strip that lights up with a 12v car battery will also light up, not as brightly, on a little 9v battery. I use the 9v for testing during installation. You want to stick with the proper voltage, 12v. Just saying, these seem to be well designed light strips and they are cheap. You can also buy solderless connectors for them. |
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Post by scooter on Jul 13, 2015 15:53:25 GMT -5
Just make a spanner tool for free out of an old bed frame and a couple bolts you have laying around,,I bring mine with me on long trips in case i have to change a belt.NEVER WEDGE A SCREWDRIVER BETWEEN THE FAN BLADES THEY WILL SNAP!!! Nice to see you again, Jersey! I couldn't see your video. Come check out my latest project itistheride.boards.net/thread/8053/50cc-start |
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Post by scooter on Jul 13, 2015 15:38:54 GMT -5
Well, My wife (Kelly) has a CriCut. It's an automated cutting device... You can use it for making Vinyl Graphics, Painting masking templates, Holiday cards and really, whatever else your creative mind can come up with. My latest idea was gaskets! Gaskets on demand! That was a great idea, Dan! I owe you a bone! |
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Post by scooter on Jul 12, 2015 21:19:01 GMT -5
Kinda crappy vid i made so you can hear it. I can't view it. Try putting it into a private public folder and re-posting the new URL. |
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Post by scooter on Jul 12, 2015 21:10:59 GMT -5
Hello! I bought this helix for 300 bucks. Needed a battery and a CDI. has 1000 miles on it and runs pretty darn good. I ahve taken it on a couple 150 plus mile backroad trips last couple of weeks. Now im almost done with my turbo KZ750, so thi things on the chopping block next! Going to strip it,tuck everything, build custom head lights and tail lights, make a custom seat, exhaust and stuff. Kinda like that BR Helix. Is the bodywork worth saving and ebaying? Its in excellent shape!  Look on ebay and see what they are selling for right now. |
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Post by scooter on Jul 12, 2015 7:46:33 GMT -5
BTW that's a great video, I actually used that to learn the basics on how to tune my carb. I'm gona be playing around with mine a bunch when my uni arrives. What annoys me is the damn screws on the carbs are like butter! And they come so tight from the factory. I have yet to adjust my needle which I may just try, but I've learned how to change jets n stuff. I wish I had an 02 sensor like this dude! It would be so much easier to tune Try an impact driver on those soft screws. I'm at 100% success rate with that method so far. |
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Post by scooter on Jul 10, 2015 20:33:10 GMT -5
Bummer, dude.  |
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Post by scooter on Jul 10, 2015 18:58:13 GMT -5
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Post by scooter on Jul 10, 2015 18:48:10 GMT -5
Here is a pic from a few years ago ,  . And this is a little further away . its the same scoot , I just repainted it.  . I'm a fan of colored rims and chrome. I like the chrome muffler and swingarm, and the blue and aluminum rim combo. I wonder how your fan would look with that ensemble in chrome, blue chrome, or blue anodized? It would make the whole undercarriage look like one nice long metallic unit peeking out from behind the black lower fairing. Maybe some fancy metallic and/or colored muffler clamps to finish the look. and one of these..  or this one thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mYhDmSKzsxTQV30O-1qLZOw.jpg |
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Post by scooter on Jul 10, 2015 18:17:57 GMT -5
I get what you're saying now, and I agree that having the vacuum actuated petcock is nicer. I never turn mine off , unless I am working on fuel line or whatnot. Other then that it stays open. The flaot valve shuts the fuel off at the carb when the bowl is full . no need to turn the manual valve off. On my motorcycles I always turned them off, but they are right out in plain sight, and besides, I had no idea what would happen if I left them on. All I knew at the time, was that the carb mixed air and gas, and would indeed flood the engine, fail to start it, or spit gas out, by virtue of some mystical evil forces, and that if you took it apart and cleaned it, then it would usually work.  .. but what if.... your needle valve didn't close one day, and flammable gasoline ran down onto your motorcycle engine, and it went up in flames.. in your garage.. at night.. in a neighborhood without a fire department. and your wife is about to have a baby.. and you have to take her to the hospital on your scooter. and now you'll have to give birth to your child alone in the dark in the winter, while you watch your house burn down. think about it.  and there's a bear... |
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Post by scooter on Jul 10, 2015 17:21:43 GMT -5
Lol...I take it apart when I work on it obviously. I just dont wanna have to deal with a manual petcock if I dont need to as it would be kind of a pain to access. And knowing how forgetful I am I'd forget about it all the time I get what you're saying now, and I agree that having the vacuum actuated petcock is nicer. |
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Post by scooter on Jul 10, 2015 17:02:16 GMT -5
I strongly suggest a temp gauge. If this was caused by running low on oil , your temps would have been raised. Let us know your results after your able to do the leak down test. It's not my bike but I'll suggest it to the owner. The leakdown test was inconclusive due to lack of experience on the part of the operator. I'll compare the results with another test after a new cylinder and head are installed. |
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Post by scooter on Jul 10, 2015 16:59:40 GMT -5
Another thing to check is the oil pump. If the oil was really low , the oil pump could have burned up causing the scoot to overheat even more. It only takes seconds for the oil pump to go burn up . my scoot fell over when I hit the deer and the scoot ran for seconds with no oil , and it burned up. Luckily I had a temp gauge and noticed it right away. Oil pump is very easy to check. Take thavalve cover off . make sure the scoot has oil, and turn the scoot over . oil should flow to the cam and rockers if the oil pump is working. Thanks. I forgot to check that when the engine was still together but I did order a new pump and I'm going to watch a video on how to install it. |
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Post by scooter on Jul 10, 2015 16:39:36 GMT -5
also would a compression test show any indication of excessive pressure enough to blow a seal? I don't know what exact number the gauge would show, maybe up in the 190+ range, but yes, a compression test would show that carbon buildup had increased your compression. I have seen oil blown out of a valve cover because of an exhaust valve that was too tight. |
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Post by scooter on Jul 9, 2015 20:44:41 GMT -5
I dot have any specific info on exactly what you have. However  Psi is on the Low side but Plenty Enough to Start and Run. How bout some Scoot history i.e. How many miles on her? type of Oil? 7,000 miles or probably KM. I can't see the dash right now. Standard mfg recommended oil at last oil change, possibly ran low on oil for up to 5 months depending on how long it was ran "off the diptick". Could have been days, months, or weeks. It's practically new, otherwise. Another compression tester read 70psi and I don't know why. Putting oil in the cylinder made it go to 120 or so on the second gauge. |
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Psi is on the Low side but Plenty Enough to Start and Run.