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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 28, 2015 23:16:08 GMT -5
in indiana, an officer has to do the VIN check when getting a vehicle, then the BMV registers that vehicle, not the dealer. the only thing a dealer can do is give you the title and 30 day temp tags. the title/ registration/ tags from your old scoot cannot be transferred to the new one.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 28, 2015 22:47:03 GMT -5
There is a lot more to power brakes then there is in one of the vacuum valves. correct. the vacuum booster on power brakes is just one item that make up the brake system, just like the vacuum valve is one item in the fuel system. the vacuum booster is essentially a big vacuum valve. they don't go bad as often as they are being used outside their design specs. the majority of 50cc owners seldom have problems with them. noted for future reference. so, just when are we to take you seriously?
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 28, 2015 21:41:28 GMT -5
my vacuum valve wasn't cheap or junk. it just didn't work right above a certain speed, it didn't maintain the needed vacuum. yes, i'm well aware there are different pumps with different pressure ratings. unfortunately no one has an expert opinion on the matter other than "go buy one, see if it works". it's all good, a manual valve set me up. the only problem with a manual valve is remembering to shut it off. Lol, that's some funny stuff . sorry buddy bit that's the definition of "cheap or junk " . " it wasn't junk , it just didn't work right above certain speeds"!! That's like saying " my scoot is not junk , it just only runs once a year. " or my CD player isn't junk it just plays certain CDs . or my scoot battery isnt junk it just won't work when its hooked up . Like rcq said , those vacuum valves are nothing but a piece of the 1800's thrown into 20th century tech . many times they turn out to be a problem . using a simple design that never gets old and always comes through " the manual shutoff valve" is the way to go . the manual valve eliminates any need for any vacuum lines . u can plug all vacuum lines or just cap off all vacuum ports and not worry about vacuum issues anymore !! i'm glad you find it amusing. the vacuum valve on my 50cc never gave me a bit of trouble. have any idea how much of that "eighteenth century technology" is used on a modern car engine? unless it has changed, the power for your "power brakes" is EXACTLY the same technology that these fuel valves use. any comment on that?
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 28, 2015 20:09:15 GMT -5
I respectfully suggest that when a response is directed to GEH it does not mean it is directed to, nor refer to, you. As for your caring, I have no response. i understand. i missed the last part of the post. yes, that's what i said. i had this pump a grand total of 2 days before i got rid of it. the situation is a little more complicated with a below engine tank, i don't see how you can get around an electric pump, and i advise caution in using them. a perfect solution would rely on oil pressure, either pump or valve. i'm not aware of any such device.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 28, 2015 19:48:50 GMT -5
Hold on now, Hoss. As you well know, I've been running an electric pump since early last year and find it the single best improvement ever that can be made. how would i know anything about what you were running last year, and furthermore why would i care? mine wasn't a pump, it was a valve, and as to the other, when was the last time you seen an automobile with the gas tank outlet at least a foot above the carb inlet? an american made valve will suffer from the same shortages as a chinese valve, namely a lack of vacuum. if the vacuum is sufficient then either will work. lumping all chinese made stuff into the category of junk just simply isn't true, nor is it fair. my tank was above the engine, all that was needed was a fuel line to connect the 2, and of course a valve to shut off the fuel. the valve i bought works great. 6 inches vertical height between tank outlet and carb inlet was sufficient for my 244 at WOT. i can't remember if i used (1/4) or (3/8) hose.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 28, 2015 18:30:51 GMT -5
Many have issues with the cheap junk vacuum petcocks , that's why many switch to a Manuel shutoff instead , no vacuum , no worries. U must buy the right electric fuel pump or that will happen . there are many out there with different fuel pressure ratings. my vacuum valve wasn't cheap or junk. it just didn't work right above a certain speed, it didn't maintain the needed vacuum. yes, i'm well aware there are different pumps with different pressure ratings. unfortunately no one has an expert opinion on the matter other than "go buy one, see if it works". it's all good, a manual valve set me up. the only problem with a manual valve is remembering to shut it off.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 28, 2015 16:28:37 GMT -5
the first thing i would do is completely drain the gas tank and carb. then squirt a little gas into the carb inlet while trying to start the bike.
about the 4 ignition switch wires: black red green a striped wire, probably green/ red the striped wire is the one to kill the engine, ground it to the green wire to kill. the black gets connected to the red to run the accessories.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 28, 2015 12:19:06 GMT -5
endplay, and it's normal for an idler gear.
gearshaft endplay becomes important when dealing with tranny or final drive gears.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 28, 2015 11:09:42 GMT -5
Just a note to avoid confusion. When you reach into the opening for the starter motor and wiggle the gear - YOU ARE NOT EVEN TOUCHING THE STARTER CLUTCH. What you are feeling is the idle gear, which in turn mates with the teeth of the starter clutch. So, what you are wiggling is simply the idle gear, not the starter clutch. So, to be clear: the teeth on the end of your starter motor turn the idle gear; the idle gear in turn mates with and turns the starter clutch. Wiggling of the idle gear has nothing at all to do with the starter clutch. in this case there shouldn't be any wiggling at all, but you might get shaft endplay. IOW, you might be able to push the gear back and forth, but not wiggle the gear on the shaft. only the OP knows what he means by "wiggle". in this case, shaft endplay is normal, wiggling the gear on the shaft indicates worn idler gear bushings and may, or may not, be a problem.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 28, 2015 6:44:22 GMT -5
a good way to determine if the starter clutch is slipping, is to watch the variator as you try to start the engine. the variator should turn as long as the starter is engaged.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 28, 2015 6:34:09 GMT -5
Let me ask you this, when I removed my starter, I put my hand in where the male end of the starter went, i can turn the gear that is in there very easily (only counter clockwise) and it wobbles from side to side (it isn't held firm) does this all sound correct? yes, a starter clutch turns freely in one direction but not in the other. yes, there will be a slight side to side wiggle in the outside gear (there are 2 pieces to the clutch), the inside part is bolted to the crank (mine is bolted to the magneto) the other rides on the outside of this bolted on piece. before anyone starts getting crazy, there are more than 2 pieces to the clutch, i'm just trying to make this simple for the OP to understand why there would be some wiggle. i don't know how much wiggle you should have, but i assume it wouldn't be much. i'm not sure how your instincts are, but if you feel like this wiggle is excessive then i would replace the starter clutch. i would go with getting another starter. i would also be looking for some specs for your starter clutch, how much side to side play it should have. like i said, it will have some, but it won't be much.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 28, 2015 6:10:30 GMT -5
in my opinion, since the scoot wasn't impounded then the OP cannot be charged with riding while improperly licensed. the only thing the OP can be charged with is speeding, and it doesn't matter if he was going downhill or not. a mopeds top speed is determined legally on a straight and level course.
one other thing to be aware of. in indiana, they passed a law that makes it illegal for you to ride a moped if your license was taken legally by the court. all moped riders must either be licensed or registered by the BMV. this law came into effect within the last few years.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 28, 2015 2:45:12 GMT -5
i agree with kat, if you can find a professional mechanic that will plead for you, and in connection that your bike wasn't impounded, you have a very good chance of getting out of all of this.
i still recommend a lawyer to help you though.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 27, 2015 23:36:11 GMT -5
that's odd. i can't imagine why he would give you a ticket for improper licensing, but yet didn't impound your ride. i'm not familiar with virginia laws so i can't really offer any advice. the only thing i can say is, get a lawyer, and good luck. it seems to me, if the scoot should have been impounded but wasn't, then the entire load of tickets could be thrown out, all of them. by not impounding your ride, and watching you ride it, this cop was basically letting you commit a crime, and was watching you do it, and not doing anything about it.
yeah, i'd get a lawyer.
i would still get a MC permit, along with the insurance. in indiana, a MC permit can be renewed indefinitely until you take the skills test. i renewed mine twice. insurance is dirt cheap for a MC, mine is 11-12 bucks a month. the bad part about a permit is you can't have any passengers and you can't ride at night. no night riding would bug the crap out of me, i loved riding my 50cc at night. oh yeah, you have to wear a helmet, but you said that is required anyway.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 27, 2015 21:15:24 GMT -5
the only thing you can hope for is, the cop car wasn't equipped with a camera. if the cop has video proof of the radar readout . . . say bye bye to your ride. it will be impounded, which it should already be if you wasn't properly licensed. by the time you get yourself legal, the impound fees, which are compounded daily, will be beyond the value of the scoot.
caveat: if your scoot is impounded because you didn't have a MC endorsement, then IMMEDIATELY go to the BMV and get a MC permit. don't forget the insurance. you need to do this ASAP, like in tomorrow. this will allow you to get your scoot out of impound before the fees become astronomical.
the impound lot will not release your ride until you can prove you are legal to ride it.
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