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be sure to read my thread on safety issues in the general scooter board.

honda also says to use regular engine oil in the final drive, and like you i consider it too thin.
i use 80W-85W- gear oil in my final drive.
do this on the center stand.
my final drive was made in such a way that by putting the front wheel on the ground allowed all the fluid to drain out.
putting the back tire on the ground allowed about 10% more fluid to be added.

i also recommend replacing the tire valve stems, or at least keep an eye on them for cracking

use antifreeze approved for aluminum engines in the radiator.
i used premixed, but you can mix it yourself. use distilled water for mixing. (and for the battery)

also, the sight glass on the master cylinders seem to be questionable, so keep an eye on them too.
speaking of which, it might not be a bad idea to at least bleed your brakes.
keep brake fluid off the plastic panels and immediately wipe up any spills, brake fluid will damage the plastics.

change the oil, get rid of that stuff that shipped in your engine.
i use 10W-40 engine oil, but a severe environment type oil would be preferable.
change your oil regularly, these engines take a pounding, i changed mine once a month.

keep your tire pressure at recommended PSI, low air pressure will cause premature tire wear.

you will no doubt need to adjust your valves at least once.

get a full face helmet, and wear it.
gloves, boots, and jacket.
if you plan on doing any cold weather riding, then get a rainsuit.
you would not believe the difference a rubberized rainsuit makes.
even 50 degree weather will freeze you to the bone at 60MPH.

also, don't drink and ride, not even one beer.
no, i'm not joking.

2T?
isn't a 2T a 2 stroke?
all i know is what i found on my bike, and it was a maxi scoot, specifically a 244cc
there was not a single frame ground on it.
there were 2 grounds, one was to the engine, the other was a single green wire that collected all the others, that wire went directly back to the battery.
i should know, i rewired it.
the stator was a 3 wire floating type.
speaking about the stator, the autochoke was driven by the stator, it wasn't 12V.
apparently this size engine has 2 types of chokes, and both will fit, but they cannot be interchanged.
i replaced mine 4 times before i had enough.
i finally tore one apart to see how i could rig up a work around, and succeeded.
i had to hand choke it to get it started, but other than that i didn't have any problems with it.

my own experience  has shown me that almost all (>%) of my "no start", "hard start" problems, was electrical in nature.
when i first got my ride, i would never know if it would start when i would go out to ride, or it would get me home if it did start.
i finally got tired of farting with it, and ripped the harness out of it.
i replaced every single connector, socket, gauge, and lights, all of it with quality stuff.
my bike has never failed to start since.

one thing i noticed was, my ride didn't use the frame for ground, all grounds was to a single green wire that ran directly to the battery.
the only exception was the starter ground, and it was connected to the engine by a heavy gauge black wire.
this can be confirmed by looking at the wires on the battery.
you will have a heavy gauge black and a small gauge green.
the same applies to the hot, you will have a heavy gauge red and a small gauge red.

other things i noticed was:
the chinese invariably used green for ground except for the starter circuit, which uses black.
the chinese use striped wires for signal carrying wires, the pulse pickup.
the chinese use red for wires that connect directly to the battery.
the chinese used black for switched DC.
all of the above was consistent throughout my harness, and i fail to believe the chinese would make my harness specifically for my bike.

edit:
BTW, it doesn't take much crud in the starter circuit to reduce the voltage to below that needed to start the engine.
i would inspect the starter circuit thoroughly, starting at the battery.
the idiot proof circuit:
battery to solenoid. (red)
solenoid to starter. (red)
starter to battery. (black)
remove each of these connections in turn and make sure there is NO CRUD on them
use sand paper to get a clean connection surface.
make sure the black is connected directly to one of the starter mounting screws.
mount the starter, then remove one of the mounting screws.
this is the place to connect the black wire, and make sure the surfaces are clean.
then finally back to the battery.

also, make sure the connections are tight.
you aren't torquing down head bolts here, but they need to be tight.

another good thing to have is a volt ohm meter.
doesn't need to be anything fancy, but it does need to be able to measure up to about 200 volts.
it should be able to measure the ohms of your pickup.
it should be able to measure full stator output.
and it should have more that one selectable range.
and you need to know how to use it.

this is the typical reason i do not recommend a chinese ride to anyone if they aren't reasonably mechanically competent.
if you do not have the abilities to work on this stuff then, honestly, you don't need to be working on it.

trust me, mine gave me fits, i got so tired of working on it, i almost didn't go back to get it one day when it quit on me.
but i kept on it, and eventually i'm glad i did.
i wound up with a ride that, even with all stock components *, had no trouble keeping up with 60MPH traffic 2up.
i could have modified it to get at least 80MPH with no engine modifications.
it turned out to be a fine beast, but i practically had to beat it to death to get it to comply.

* the only "non stock" component on my ride was the rollers.
it came with 15 gram rollers and i replaced them with 20 gram rollers.

since i don't know virginia law very well i cannot give much advice on the matter.

JR,
i basically agree with all of this BUT, what if some vague virginia law allowed someone like the OP to be compensated for this sort of thing?
for example, all of this can be seen as harassment, and what if virginia had a law that allowed compensation for such a thing?
it's unlikely the judge would voluntarily compensate the OP, simply because he didn't sue for it
i'm looking at, not only to get the tickets thrown out, but there might be some other connections too that the OP isn't aware of.
here again, i am in NO WAY saying such a thing exists, merely pointing out the possibilities.

there might even be a way for the state to pay the legal fees incurred by the OP.

initial consulting fees locally is about 20 bucks, and quite a few are free.

i can confidently say this, it's highly unlikely that the OP is well versed on virginia law.

i'm not saying NOT to, i'm saying get professional advice.
it's the same sort of thing with medical advice.
while some laws can be applied to the entire US, some aren't.
moped laws are such laws, although they are becoming more uniform.
i advise a lawyer for the same reason i would advise a doctor for medical problems.
the only real difference between the 2 is that you actually can DIY in regards to the law.

OTOH, i've heard of such sayings as "a doctor that treats himself has a fool for a patient"

in my opinion, the OP has a very good chance at beating this stuff, simply because the cop didn't impound his ride.
that alone says the OP was legally licensed, and by implication he could not have been speeding.
but here again, don't take my word for this stuff, find it out for yourself.