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Post by tvnacman on Aug 14, 2015 17:19:24 GMT -5
I don't see the damage in the pictures.
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 13, 2015 19:28:37 GMT -5
lets start basic, is there play in the rear wheel?
John
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 13, 2015 16:20:59 GMT -5
This forum is made up from donated time.No one is being compensated for there time here. I understand what your saying. Some people post questions about problems and never answer or reply again.
John
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 13, 2015 10:05:16 GMT -5
Thanks for sharing the resolve with us. often in this and its friends forums you find out the solution to posted problems. I'm on other forums Blah Blah , I just got it back from the shop. John
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 12, 2015 9:40:34 GMT -5
I also ran the 7 wire regulator along with my 11 pole stator. If you get the ones with the 3 input wires from the stator, most have all 3 as yellow, but some have yellow, white, and pink input wires, along with a green, red, black, and white, then you have 2 DC output wires: the red and the white ones. The red wire charges your battery. The white wire holds very steady 12v DC. You can run your tail lights off of that white wire. It will only come on when the engine is running, so you won't have to run a switch, or a relay. There has been a few perspectives on the white wire. I suggest using the white wire to control a power relay. When the engine is running the relay gets energized and powers all of the high draw items. Head lights dash lights signals, the running light in the tail light assembly should be on switched power from the key. I like the relay and this is why, when you turn the key on squeeze the brake. I like to have minimum load on the battery for starting power. Your way works well also. John
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 11, 2015 16:52:25 GMT -5
Ok , now we know your 3 phase stator. You can not use ac voltage for lighting. The acv at times will get loaded down by the regulator. The tail lights need to be dc off switched power. Using 14awg wire will help keep it stable.
John
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 11, 2015 16:45:09 GMT -5
I would like to see detailed pictures of what your talking about. I would not like to sell a variator if it has the same problem you describe.
John
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 11, 2015 10:38:43 GMT -5
check your valves
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 11, 2015 6:03:38 GMT -5
its a long wait on a gamble, my cdi's I test before they go into stock. Post a picture of your stock cdi. I have stock dc and ac cdi's.
John
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BN157QMJ-3
by: tvnacman - Aug 10, 2015 9:26:01 GMT -5
Post by tvnacman on Aug 10, 2015 9:26:01 GMT -5
it slips or binds, I never tried to figure it out they are cheap enough to just replace.
John
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BN157QMJ-3
by: tvnacman - Aug 10, 2015 6:07:03 GMT -5
Post by tvnacman on Aug 10, 2015 6:07:03 GMT -5
I think you need to get in there and see what you have then go from there. Making mods to what you have can get tricky and frustrating.
John
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 10, 2015 6:01:08 GMT -5
all stators are ac . Some electrical systems on scooters are mixed use ac and dc. To help figure out the problem you need to know what you have. What would help is pictures of the stators wiring and the regulator. What are you powering the tail light with ac or dc and where is it coming from?
John
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 10, 2015 4:50:54 GMT -5
Whoever told you about CDI's is very wrong. I've NEVER had a CDI just simply stop working, it is quite the opposite. Every time I've had a CDI die or fry it would slowly pickup symptoms until one day it would either stall out mid travel and leave me pushing it home or it would die after starting, or it would stall out and would not start until it cooled down to a "cold" engine temp again.. CDI's are just tiny boxes of capacitors. I have seen many different symptoms with cdi's, if you have any doubt try another one. One second good next bad, no start plug shows spark (at the wrong time) backfiring. The spark plug chart came from another poster I liked it and saved it. John
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 9, 2015 14:49:08 GMT -5
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 9, 2015 14:46:45 GMT -5
this is for a regular engine I would still check/compair
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