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OK here is what I got form the diagram and from your label description and it all adds up to the typical circuit layout.

Starting on the bottom from right to left:

Black from key switch is hot with key on
Next two circuits jumped to go with Black from Key switch, also hot with key on
Red is from 20A fuse on starter relay and is hot all the time unless fuse is pulled or blown

Now lets match them up color to color.

First Black wire to Blue/Red is cooling fan

Next Black wire is to White/Green and goes to horn, brake lights and starter relay combined when brake pedal/lever is pushed. That's the one labeled "starter"

Next Black wire is to Black/Brown and goes to Fuel and temp gauges, Turn signals and the headlight passing switch. This switch when pressed brightens the hi beam side of the headlight which is used to pass someone, at least that's the idea?

Last is the Red wire going to the Blue/Brown and that is the headlights and tail lights. (You can verify the tail lights part by pulling this fuse, if they go out then bingo)

The one label you have called "charge" would indicate a charging meter or indicator? On my diagram it shows none?

So now where are we at and here's what we know;

Key switch is good and passing power to the fuse box correctly.

Tail lights brake lights work and the scooter will start.

Rest of the electrical system is whacko.

I can't find the blue/black wire on the diagram that is on the key switch but I suspect it goes to the radio/MP3 player or is an accessory wire for add ons?

So you ask the question, why the tail lights and no headlights. My answer is one of two things.

The tail lights is the same on/off switch as the headlights but you can have them on and the headlights off just like in a automobile according to the diagram. Now I know you're pushing the switch for both to be on so here is the list of possibilities of why no headlights

Switch is bad
Switch is installed incorrectly ( did you ever replace this switch)
Headlight wire from switch to the dimmer switch is broke
Dimmer switch is bad
Bad ground

Now you have brake lights and it will start which is on the same circuit as the horn and it won't work, here is the list of possibilities:

Wire from fuse box running to the horn is broke or no longer tied to the G/W wire from the fuse box
Bad horn switch
Bad horn
Bad ground

NO turn signals which I'll ask a question, does the fuel gauge work or move, same with the temp gauge? The passing light have you tried it? It should light up the high beam side with just the key on?

If all these functions don't work then it's a:

Blown fuse
Broke wire feeding all these functions from the fuse box
Bad ground to all of them

If they all work except the turn signals then it's got to be one of these:

Bad turn signal flasher
Bad turn signal switch
Broke wire tying into this circuit from the fuse box
Bad Ground

Now as you can see you have lots of possibilities and on every single one there is a common thing, "bad ground"

I'll ask this again, did you check the ground cable off of the battery where it hooks up to the frame and any wires attached there. It is very common for the grounding wire in a harness to be divided into sections and one area like the back part (tail and brake lights) work and the front area not simply because the ground wire heading to one section is broke or making a very poor ground.

It's common to see your problem associated with a very bad ground. I would not want to take this scooter to a shop and pay out the wasooo and have one bad ground wire be the problem.


Lastly there still exists the possibility of a clump of wires in the harness for whatever reason being fused or melted together?

Now I would check the grounds, can't get to them because of removing the plastic? That's your choice but you're not going to find this gremlin without exposing the circuitry, no way out of it.

JR

All fuses out... Got nothing.. Nothing lights up with the tester...no red light no power anything..

Put 20amp back in and the red wire lights up on both the fuse box and the ignition plug (unplugged)

Key on with 20amp in.. on the fuse box.. black across from blue/?? lights up as does the RED one on the fuse box.. FYI.. on the ignition Red, Black and Blue/Blk all lit up..


OK this tells me I'm headed in the right direction and the wiring diagram I have is right.

This also tells me there is nothing wrong with your key switch, reason I know this? With all the fuses out except the 20A one in the starter relay that feeds both red wires and the key on it is passing power to the black wire to the fuse box on the where I said it would. I haven't looked about the blue/black yet.

If you look at the black wire on the fuse box across from the blue/red you will see that it is jumped to the next two circuits or fuses in the fuse box. One has the green/white wire and the other is black/brown. I know your fuse box cover labels things but the diagram sometimes will label things another way and according to the diagram there are several things running off of the G/W including the horn. The black/brown goes to the headlights according to the diagram.

This also tells me that the fused 20A red wire from the starter relay is split and one heads to the key switch and the other to the fuse box and feeds a separate circuit and is not connected to the key switch in any way.

I need to know what this color the wire across from the red in the fuse box really is and then I can find where it goes.

Also at this point it now appears that your problems lie past the fuse box. It's not a direct short because if it was then it would be blowing fuses.

Also let me ask you this, when you started putting the fuses back in one by one did you leave other fuses in? Like when you put the fuse in the G/W socket and then moved on to the next fuse did you leave the fuse in on the G/W socket?

Because what I wanted you to do is put one in at a time and then remove it before you tried the next one.

We have made some progress.

JR

OK I've got a idea and I need you to do some tests and answer a question.

First of all the blue wire in the top corner is it a two colored wire? Your picture is unclear, is it blue/

Now I want you to do the following and record what you find on each thing here. I'm almost positive I've got the power hook up figured out and I just need you to verify it.

Take all the fuses out including the 20A fuse on the starter relay all of them. Then take your test light and check to see if you have power on the red wire to the fuse box AND the red wire to the key switch with the key switch UNPLUGGED.

After that put the 20A fuse back in the starter relay and do the same test see if you have power to the red wire on the fuse box and the key switch with the switch unplugged. Remember only put the 20A fuse back in leave the rest out.

Now after that test I want you to plug the key switch back in and leave the 20A fuse in on the starter relay.

Now I want you to turn the key on and then go test the black wire on the fuse box for power the bottom black wire right across the blue/ wire with ALL the fuses out of the fuse box.

Now if you have power on the black wire I indicated with the key on then do this next with the key still on:

Put the fuse in the socket with the green/white wire and hit your horn and see if it works. If it does then great, if it doesn't and the speedo and such still acts whacky then pull this fuse.

Next put the fuse in on the socket that has the black/brown wire and see if your headlights work, if so then great if not then unplug that fuse.

Lastly put fuse in the blue/ socket and see if you blinkers work?

Now if the horn works fine leave the fuse, go to the black/brown socket and if that works then go to the last blue/ socket.

If any one of them makes the scooter act whacky then leave it out and make note which one it was.

This will tell us several things.

First if both read wires are hot with the 20A fuse in then that means the red wire splits from the 20A fuse on the starter relay and one side feed the key switch and the other feeds ? but I think I know what it does feed.

Also by the fuse box picture you posted the black wire on the bottom right across from the blue/ wire should be the black wire from the key switch and should be hot when the key is on.

Now as you can see if this is so then it is looped to the next two circuits the horn and the lights. The last circuit of red to black is a totally separate circuit and DOES NOT come from the key switch.

I know this is a lot but if you can do this step by step like I asked it will let us know what goes to what AND it possibly could give us a lead as to what circuit is causing your scooter to act crazy.

JR

The fasteners on the scooter wind shields are called well nuts. They work great if you buy quality ones which you can get at any Ace hardware in the right sizes you need. I replaced mine because we all know the Chinese rubber is junk and will fail.

Here is how they work:




JR

I put a pillow in a plastic milk crate and then use quality bungy cords to strap it on the back seat. I also have a little snap hook attached to it so I can snap it to my dogs collar. He loves to ride and doesn't try to jump out, just use that for safety.

I actually have 3 Yorkies and two love to ride the other one isn't crazy about it.

JR

I've cleaned this thread up to get back on track to help Justguy1 to solve this issue. When he gets it opened up I'm sure we'll find the problem.

JR

OK justguy1 thanks a lot for the video, it really helped me understand more clearly what is happening to your scooter. Now I'm like you I hate stripping a scooter but in this case we have got to get to the electrical up front. We for sure have something fused/melted/arced/etc. together. I've got a idea but at this point even if I'm right you still got to open her up.

Now I only got a slight glimpse of the headlight in your video but it appeared as a small bulb and not the main headlight bulb? A lot of scooters have what is called side running lights by the main headlight bulbs and a lot of times they are wired separately from the head light bulbs.

If you've never stripped her I would advise taking pictures as you go and putting nuts, bolts, etc. in containers and labeling them, helps when it goes back together.

Now you've got her back to original and the disconnect switch is no issue so let's move on and I'll promise you one thing I'll not give up so don't you, if need be we'll get on the phone and work this out.

Take your time as you take it apart and pay close attention to the harness and look for any sign of damage or where it may have got hot.

When you get her stripped holler back.

JR