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Post by JR on Jun 28, 2013 20:00:23 GMT -5
Apparently NOT Dave.. seems we have confusion some where... Ok.. here is the next thing that is going to blow your mind... ITS NOT THE IGNITION... I went back out to hook up the jumpers from the red to the black... And power came on.. nothing worked of course... but when I took the jumper off... POWER STILL ON.. Now the headlight is on... and the horn moves the speedodometer up and down like always.. and hit the START button.. and it all shuts down... Now where are we....LOL... im ready to give up.. Nope not going to give up, not going to throw in the towel. Now my confusion stems from reading lots of material and not dealing with you direct that's why I told you if you wanted me to help I would jump in there full force. Also since you said this all happened when you put this switch on then by what I saw at other places my assumption would be to par and I fully believe you when you said what you did on the wiring but if you see it from another angle you would also see how one would think this happened from an error? Scooter running fine, put in switch scooter gone south. But scootnwinn made a very vaild suggestion which could easily have happened. It could be just the harness rubbing in some way and I've seen this happen on and off and this could be the answer to why the mystery of the key in and out acting crazy? But you also supplied some more needed info by telling me that the lights just come on with the key and with the switch.....and that the tail lights work, again they are both on the same circuit so that indicates wiring issues. I'll ask the same question, do you have her stripped down? JR
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Post by JR on Jun 28, 2013 19:40:53 GMT -5
Ok, on the other forum I put up a picture of his IGNITION KEY SWITCH and asked if the PLUG connector from the IGNITION was disconnected and he said YES. And he still is getting voltage to wires that should not have juice ONLY with the KEY ON which is completely disconnected. So with that cleared up it appears the RED WIRE that feeds the IGNITION has burnt along with some other wires in the harness and are melted together feeding juice with the key. He is going to trace the WIRE carrying the juice from the BATTERY to the IGNITION and see if it has melted someplace along the way and energizing other wires. Alleyoop I would agree with that but if the red wire was melted to another feed wire then the power would be on all the time and taking the key in or out wouldn't have any effect at all.
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Post by JR on Jun 28, 2013 19:38:29 GMT -5
LOL justguy1. I personally thought that was clear 1,2 Day's ago. Maybe that's just me. Dave Maybe it is/was but it wasn't to me. I just started on this and only understand what I've read here and at other places but some of that material was moved by another and now not available. Now IMO if you understand all this then maybe you can help him fix his scooter? JR
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Post by JR on Jun 28, 2013 17:32:56 GMT -5
I'm assuming you put the cable from the switch to the solenoid relay like was drawn in the picture, if you did that and then hit the start button then you crossed positive and negative together. In the drawing it said on the "M" side NEG to frame. If you put that wire there then you grounded out the system.
By your own admission all these problems started when you installed the battery disconnect switch, the scooter didn't just have this all happen by itself. You've got major problems and it's going to have to be gone through one thing at a time.
Also the tail lights are on the same circuit as the head lights which you say won't work, what you have is brake lights only or blown headlight bulbs or the switch or both.
Question, did this scooter have headlights that will come on when just turning on the key and headlight switch or di it have to be running? There are two different versions, two different diagrams.
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Post by JR on Jun 28, 2013 17:26:06 GMT -5
Sorry wasn't clear... The brakes lights work... they did before as well.. I tried to start it and it turned over. no issue there as well.
Now you have me confused?
Just to reiterate, with the key swith plugged in it is doing the SAME thing its doing with the jumpers. So im confused how the ignition key switch is bad..
So with the jumpers in the brake lights worked and you could hit the starter and it would turn over.
But here you are saying with the key in.....
PS.. One thing I wanted to ask.. Why is it that with the key out... I can press the STARTER switch (button) and it shuts the power off..
Which is it? You did have the key switch totally unplugged from the system when putting in the jumper wires, correct?
Simply put if you have the key on and hit the start button and it shuts down the scooter then it is bad. It shorted out when you installed the disconnect incorrectly.
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Post by JR on Jun 28, 2013 17:18:29 GMT -5
When you pull the key out of the switch which I have no doubt is fried the start circuit is grounding out when you hit the start button.I just stated that, figured it all along. But with the switch unplugged and the jumpers in he still has no power to some functions or those things are fried too. By testing each one I'll know. Need to remember he has crossed positive to negative and then hit the start button with the solenoid grounded out when he initially installed the battery disconnect and we know where those instructions came from. We may have a fried turn signal relay, burnt up headlight bulbs, etc. By taking it step by step I can figure it out. I've eliminated the solenoid relay and now have the fried key switch out of the equation. We can jump the power feeds easily and we don't need to mess with the engine kill circuit, it is a ground side anyway. When you put hot to ground you burn up things on the hot side not the ground side 99% of the time. Like I said before YOU NEVER put a main disconnect on the ground side of anything. JR
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Post by JR on Jun 28, 2013 16:55:01 GMT -5
Also I forgot to mention by the jumping of the key switch plug we eliminated all the tests that were asked of you at the other forum. By just you telling me that we have brake lights and the scooter starter will engage tells me we have power on the red wire and the black wire along with the black/blue. Again I'll get back shortly. BTW do you have a volt meter and know how to use it?
JR
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Post by JR on Jun 28, 2013 16:46:26 GMT -5
PS.. One thing I wanted to ask.. Why is it that with the key out... I can press the STARTER switch (button) and it shuts the power off..
I'm presuming you mean when you have the key switch plugged in to the plug. We presently have the key switch unplugged and now when you hit the start button that doesn't happen?
When you pull the key out of the switch which I have no doubt is fried the start circuit is grounding out when you hit the start button.
Now at least we know your solenoid starter relay is good. So if I remember right you said you have a test light? Is it one that has two wires or is the type with one wire with say a alligator clip on it and a point on the other which you use to touch wires/connections with? I'm just wanting to know this, if you're unsure put up a picture.
I know it doesn't sound like we've done anything but actually we have and now I can take you to the next step but I do have to have you use your tester for this.
With the jumpers in we are now sending power down the wires to places that we need it to. With the key switch plugged in we were not doing that, again fried key switch.
I'm going to look at the diagram and make a list of things to test so we can move forward.
Also I know you have stated that the fuses are good. I'll ask you this question, is that assumption by you just looking at them? Reason I ask is fuses especially Chinese fuses can look good and be bad. Of course the true way to know is by ohming them or replacing them with new ones that for sure should be good. It's a real pain to do a lot of testing when all along it was a simple fuse.
Since I'm certain that you crossed the positive and negative together when installing the battery disconnect switch when this happened it should have blown the fuses which is your first line of defense when a thing like this happens which is the same thing as a direct short. If you're not absolutely sure the fuses are good replace them.
I'll get back later.
JR
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Post by JR on Jun 28, 2013 14:59:21 GMT -5
Sorry on the brake pedal, my bad but I do want you to try the one brake handle also, according to the diagram the pedal and the one brake handle will turn on the brake lights.
Also I requested when you press the brake handle or pedal in this case and I wanted you to just bump the starter button and tell me if the engine will turn over or the starter engages.
Reason I want to know this is because I want to see if the starter solenoid relay is still good. If you press the pedal or brake handle and bump the starter button and you hear the starter engage then we have eliminated one thing in this equation. If it makes no sound at all then we know we have one item that is bad. Remember that the brakes and the starter solenoid run off of the same yellow/red wire and now that I know you have brake lights if you bump the start button I'll know about the relay when you report your findings.
After you do this step do the following:
Again turn off your new main disconnect switch
Leave your jumper that you installed to the red and black wires on the plug that you unplugged from the key switch and yes DO NOT plug the key switch in, leave it unhooked.
Now this may be a little tricky but I want you to put another jumper wire in the same plug that you have the current one in from the red to black.
I want you to run a jumper from the red to the blue/black wire AND leave the red to black hooked up at the same time. It may be a little tight in the red plug but you can do it. Again make sure the wires are not touching anything when you do this.
Again forget about the key switch, leave it unplugged.
Now as soon as you get these jumpers hooked up turn your new main disconnect switch back on and check to see if you have a horn, blinkers, etc.
Please do the starter test before you add the new jumper and record your findings.
I'll wait for your results.
JR
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Post by JR on Jun 28, 2013 14:37:37 GMT -5
Sorry guys, been running behind since coming home from vacation but I've got them in and also corrected your picture ZOM813. Also got you in Larrball. Thanks folks for your patience and nice scooters, need more! JR
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Post by JR on Jun 28, 2013 12:56:07 GMT -5
Thanks for the clarification on the key on the disconnect switch and by your previous statements I do believe you have it correctly wired now so with that said here is what I would like to do and this will at least tell me a few things to look for.
Yes I want you to totally unplug the scooter key switch not your new disconnect switch, I want the key switch out of the equation.
Also turn your new disconnect switch to the off position, I do not want any power on while you are jumping the plug.
I know there was confusion on the main cables going to the starter solenoid, I want you to be sure of two things, don't care what color wires they are although the main cables are generally red. Make sure the terminal/post on the solenoid marked "B" goes to the + positive battery post. Make sure the terminal/post marked "M" on the solenoid relay goes to the starter terminal/post. NOT TO GROUND -
As I stated before with the key switch plugged into the other half of the socket take a magic marker and mark the black and red wire on the plug, reason for this? Simple I can't in your picture see the other plug and know that the wires are matched apples for apples as far as the colors, if they are then forget marking them. If the other plug matches up to the key switch plug black to black and red to red then good. Sometimes the Chinese will change colors even on plugs that plug into each other.
Now if the other plug is female then you won't be able to put even a small alligator clip in it, no big deal. Take a short piece of say 14ga or any size copper wire that with each end peeled off a bit will just slide into the female socket and make a good connection, remember this is only temporary and for testing only. Again make sure this jumper goes from the black wire to the red wire. Just make sure your jumper cannot touch anything that would ground it out.
Now after you do this I want you to turn on your new main disconnect switch which will immediately complete the circuit thus giving the scooter power to the system. Remember you have the key switch disconnected, it's out of the picture at this moment, dead not in use.
Now by manually jumping the red to black we are now supplying DC power down the black wire which feeds a lot of stuff on this scooter through fuses also.
Check one thing at a time in this order and make a note if one works properly or doesn't at all.
Brake lights, push both brake handles one at a time and see if the brake light comes on, make note if it does on one brake handle and doesn't on the other.
If the brake light lights up then with the brake handle pressed just bump the start button, don't try to start the scooter, I just want to see if it will turn over. Take note if it will or won't.
Now try the horn.
Next try the turn signals.
Now according to the diagrams this scooter comes in two different setups? One is where you can turn the head/tail lights on with just the key on and with a switch. The other is where the head/tail are on only when the engfine is running. If this is the case then we will wait to see if they are OK when we do start the scooter.
Do these things as I stated and take a note of what you find and get back.
JR
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Post by JR on Jun 28, 2013 7:14:35 GMT -5
Honestly, im not here to choose sides.. I just want my scooter working.. frankly if that means getting help from you cause you know what your doing then that's awesome.. Ok. so I messed up because I wanted to put a disconnect on. I like the idea cause im able to take the key out when I go into work so no one can take my scooter since the battery is off... That being said.. Lets try to tackle this mess... So let's get to work and get this thing up and running... lets see what is fried and what needs to be replaced or fixed.. im hoping its not something expensive or hard to fix... I understand your frustration and this is not a choosing sides thing. I want to see you get to ride your scooter and put this behind you. What I am saying with a problem like this is when you get so many people trying to tell you this and that it becomes very confusing and IMO you're confused enough. Believe it or not the electrical systems are not complicated but some have different ways of how things work while others all go by the same system. This scooter is easy to understand if you know about these things. But what is also frustrating to a person who can help you no matter who is helping is for them to start telling someone what to check and/or try this and another with a different idea says do this or do that. All opinions and ideas are great and welcomed but as I said before one can have too many cooks in the kitchen. So my suggestion is for you to decide who/what is the easiest to understand path for you and go with that course of action. That way IMO it's easier for you and the person who is trying to walk you through this to find out what is wrong. Believe it or not at least 80% of the functions on a scooter's electrical system can be tested without a meter of any kind and the rest can be done with the simple test light you purchased. As a certified electrician I know this. I'll say this again you have been given incorrect advice and that's not a opinion but a fact and if you want to work with the people/person who has/is giving you this advice then that's ok and your choice. If you want to try things here then that's ok too but again going back and forth and hoping for a easy quick fix with all the problems you've described isn't going to happen. Trouble shooting electrical like a lot of things is a step by step process of elimination, check one thing and if that's not it move to the next. Different people have different ways of doing it if you can/want to buy you a meter, add learning how to use one and go with others way of doing it then great and we'll cheer ya on. If you want to try it my way I'll be here and I'm on and off generally every day. JR
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Post by JR on Jun 27, 2013 22:49:20 GMT -5
Well here is the latest.. Im not too familiar with electronics enough to know ... So im not real sure what JR means about jumping the red and black wire on the switch that is not connected to the ignition.. Doesn't the key have to be on for the blinkers and horn and lights to work??? So confused about that.. Ok so here is the crazy thing tonight... So I take apart the key ignition switch.. Meaning if I turn the key on NOTHING... well not so fast.. So I have it connected I turn the key on and well you know nothing works.. So I take the key out like normal everything stays on... then I disconnect the switch plug... And ITS STILL ON... the head lights, the odometer. I hit the blinkers no blinkers but the odometer dims, hit the horn the speedodometer goes up... Now here is the kicker.... I hit the start button.... EVERYTHING SHUTS OFF.. didn't have to turn the power off.. And funny thing was when the key on .... if I press the start button.. everything lights up.. I didnt try the horn and blinkers, but the dash lights... So im more friggin lost now then I was before... And if you guys can shed light on the jumper thing.. the one I bought I don't think is gonna work it has alligator clips on the end and are too big to fit in the holes.. So that is where I stand going to be working on this all weekend.. Very simple justguy1. Here is your picture of the plug to your key switch: Now we know that your scooter is acting stupid with the key in, out etc. So do not worry about the key switch at all, just act like it is not there. Unplug this plug in your picture. All plugs have two sides male and female. I'm thinking that the male side of the plug is on the pigtail going to the key switch. So unplug the key switch at the plug in your picture. Now forget about the key switch. Before you unplug it make a mark on the plug and label the location of the RED and BLACK wires on both parts of the plug, male and female. The Chinese are famous for changing colors from one side of the plug to another. Now after marking the wires, on the plug going toward your engine or dash ( should be the female one) take your temporary jumper wire and jump or tie together the RED and BLACK wires in the plug. We know your key switch is more than likely bad but what we are doing here is bypassing the key switch to see if we can send DC voltage to functions in your scooter, blinker, horn, etc. By jumping the RED and BLACK together we should have power to these things. JR
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Post by JR on Jun 27, 2013 22:33:37 GMT -5
In this case scootnwinn the alarm has nothing to do with this, even if it's fried. One can take it and throw it in the trash and the scooter will still start with the key switch just fine.
The man has fried some things because he was given bogus info in the picture above.
JR
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Post by JR on Jun 27, 2013 22:20:23 GMT -5
When i get home tonight I will try to do what you said.. I have to go to radio shack to get a jumper cable. to connect the wires... Yeah, Im sorry I didnt know about the negative. I was getting help from somewhere else and following that. So not sure. But i will try what you said tonight and see what happens.. So are we looking at a big mess here? expensive mess?? Justguy1 I'm going to make this simple and I'm honestly not trying to sound rude but the way I understand this is you decided to put a battery disconnect switch in your system and you followed directions from another person on Doc and we know who that is. What he drew and said is wrong, no two ways about it, even this statement he made today is wrong and bogus: On the CF Moto fashion the positive terminal of the battery has a short red cable to the solenoid. Then the negative side of the solenoid runs to the starter.
Read more: scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=250cc&action=display&thread=8106&page=3#ixzz2XTaak4t4There is no such thing as a negative side of the solenoid, plain and simple. The solenoid relay is a simple electrically energized switch, nothing more. It hooks up to the positive post on the battery and then sends the same current to the positive post on the starter. The starter is grounded via mounted to the engine and the engine is grounded to the frame. In this picture drawn by the very man that helped you can see that he labeled the other terminal marked "M" as negative to ground. Point blank this is wrong and if you did this by his drawing then that is why your scooter is messed up, no way around it. Here is the section of the Fashion wiring diagram that proves exactly what I said, the "M" in the diagram is the starter motor. Now I know you want to get your scooter going and I'm certain I can help you but with all the confusion of going from one place to another and so many people trying to tell you what to do IMO you'll only make things worse. I saw all the pictures, all the test this and test that with a meter and all fine and dandy if you have electrical training and background, which I do and have done this work for over 40 years. so it's simple if you would like me to help and I can do just that then we'll move forward and it's your choice, you can listen to the person who helped you get this wrong to start with or go with someone who knows how and what a solenoid relay does and is wired? BTW you NEVER put a main disconnect on the NEGATIVE side of any circuit, it's not by code and is wrong, lots of reasons and I'll not explain it at this time. Let me know what you want to do. JR
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