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Post by bille on Jun 9, 2014 12:13:11 GMT -5
My attempts at starting today:
After running for about two minutes it stalled.
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Post by bille on Jun 9, 2014 9:27:44 GMT -5
Before I start trying to tune it today, I have a quick question about one of the hoses I replaced. I made a short vid so you could see what I'm asking, but the question is does the big hose from the bottom of the intake manifold going to the black round thing need a coupler?
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Post by bille on Jun 8, 2014 13:46:22 GMT -5
by the way, the reason it only happened on throttle was because the pressure applied from the throttle moved the intake and exposed the crack.
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Post by bille on Jun 8, 2014 13:43:41 GMT -5
I put a piece of duct tape on it. It's warming up right now, I'm going to try and tune it again in 10 minutes.
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Post by bille on Jun 8, 2014 11:55:46 GMT -5
I think I solved it, found an air leak, check it out:
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Post by bille on Jun 8, 2014 11:14:57 GMT -5
My attempt so far today:
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Post by bille on Jun 7, 2014 21:06:04 GMT -5
By the way, I've noticed the back wheel starts to spin at around 1400-1450 rpm.
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Post by bille on Jun 7, 2014 21:00:25 GMT -5
I removed the belt and clutch to take them out of the picture for the idle. Next I set the mixture screw at 2 turns COUNTER. Next I backed the idle screw off completely and then tightened it just enough to push on the throttle.
It actually ran at like 900 RPMs for a short time but died. I recorded it:
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Post by bille on Jun 7, 2014 18:00:40 GMT -5
BUMMER that is weird as heck, So turning the fuel ratio screw counter clockwise kills it. So lets try CLOCKWISE leaning it out but LEANING it out just turn it 1/4 at a time ONCE you get it started and bogging again. What I do not like at all is the wheel is spinning pretty good even at 1600 rpms and when you put on the brakes I can hear the rpms drop. Which means the clutch is engaging at real low rpms which it SHOULD NOT. Due to it engaging to early is putting a load on the motor is why it needs to start at high rpms and as soon as you lower the rpms the motor has to much of a load on it and it dies. I personnaly would take the clutch off and check out the springs on the clutch pads. Maybe even get the 1000 rated clutch springs and put them in. That would require about 1000 more rpms for them to be thrown out and grab the bell. Alleyoop I took the clutch off but couldn't get inside of it. I need to get a clamp to hold down that spring, I'm just too tall to use my feet and hands at the same time. I am able to at least see the springs and I can see they are not broken. |
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Post by bille on Jun 7, 2014 16:11:33 GMT -5
UNBELIEVEABLE, Ok screwing in the IDLE speed screw all that is doing is Opening up the BUTTERFLY and uncovering more of the FUEL OUTLETS and a little more air. So Try this get it to the point where it bogs like in the last part of your VIDEO idleing around 1600 or so. THEN TURN THE FUEL RATIO SCREW COUNTER CLOCKWISE 1 FULL TURN and then see if it bogs. If it gets better turn it 1/4 turn at a time. If the idle climbs lower the idle down to the 1600 range BEFORE the NEXT 1/4 turn UNTIL the IDLE does not climb. Alleyoop I tried, here is what happened: |
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Post by bille on Jun 7, 2014 14:47:23 GMT -5
I made a video of it. The video shows the hard starting, and at the end, it shows it bogging out on throttle.
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Post by bille on Jun 7, 2014 12:13:01 GMT -5
Throttle cable slack is good. I can't get to the needle because the carb screws keep stripping.
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Post by bille on Jun 7, 2014 10:25:30 GMT -5
I took off the carb and opened the bowl. The float seems to be at the correct position.
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Post by bille on Jun 7, 2014 7:30:56 GMT -5
Still seems to be bogging out on throttle with the air filter out, but maybe not as bad.
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Post by bille on Jun 6, 2014 21:08:01 GMT -5
Can I leave the air filter cover off while I test or does it need to be installed for compression or something?
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