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Post by bille on Jun 20, 2014 21:34:41 GMT -5
I don't know if this makes a difference or not but I just noticed I might have put it back together incorrectly with the new springs. The plate that is held on by the retention clips *might* had been upside down.
Retrying the new springs to see if there is a difference.
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Post by bille on Jun 20, 2014 21:18:59 GMT -5
The springs were not easy to put on at all. I put the old ones back on, the wheel starts to spin at around 1400 rpm, but the idle is horrible at anything under 1500-1600 and at that point the wheel seems to be spinning too fast and rpms drop when I hit the brake.
On the bright side, the new intake manifold seems to have fixed the bogging down on throttle.
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Post by bille on Jun 20, 2014 20:06:16 GMT -5
It's not overly hard to open them, but not easy either. I could't move them with just my fingers, but with the screw driver is wasn't hard. I noticed the little black rubber things and they appear to be seated on them properly when I'm not opening it.
I wonder if the springs are defective? Should I try my old springs?
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Post by bille on Jun 20, 2014 19:31:26 GMT -5
yes, when I turned the bell the rear wheel was spinning with the bell
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Post by bille on Jun 20, 2014 19:25:24 GMT -5
I made a short video of the bell and clutch. To me, it does not appear that the clutch is engaged but see for yourself:
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Post by bille on Jun 20, 2014 18:57:23 GMT -5
Here is a video of the clutch with the new springs:
And here is a video after it ran for a few minutes:
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Post by bille on Jun 20, 2014 17:03:11 GMT -5
Actually, the back wheel spins even before 1000 rpm. As soon as it starts. I'm guessing when you change springs you have to also change the weights? If that's the case, I'm going to put the old springs back on, since I don't want to wait another week for weights.
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Post by bille on Jun 20, 2014 15:18:16 GMT -5
I got the parts in.
I replaced the intake with a new one, I removed the pair from the valve cover and blocked off the hole. I pulled the old springs off of the clutch and put new 1000lbs springs on it. I also pulled off the rest of the emissions that was coming from the pair system.
I started it up and attempted to adjust the fuel/air mixture. It would seem that 2.5 turns for that is correct. I then attempted to bring the idle down. I got it down to around 1500 but the back wheel was spinning too fast, compared to the stock springs. I then noticed that the back wheel starts spinning around 1000 rpm, with the stock springs it was around 1400. I took the variator off to check the weights but they were fine. Should I put the old springs back on?
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Post by bille on Jun 12, 2014 19:55:41 GMT -5
I just ordered a new intake manifold with a single vac to replace the double I have that's cracked. I also order 1000lb springs and a block off plate...
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Post by bille on Jun 9, 2014 21:11:35 GMT -5
No just the one like in the picture I put up only where it connects to the head . The chrome pipe will come off taking the two screws holding it to the Valve cover. You will still have that piece left on the valve cover but not the valve and chrome pipe all that goes bye bye. Plus taking the pair off now when adjusting your valves you have easy access to the valve cover just the 4 bolts and the valve cover is off nothing in the way. Alleyoop I'm glad you brought up that valve cover! I have some news to share in case you ever work on a 2014 bws. You'll remember I couldn't get that cover off, even after removing the pair, the cover still wouldn't slip past that welded bar. I figured it out by chance the other day. And, you don't even have to remove the pair to get the cover off. It's simple, remove all of the bolts, then take the scooter off of it's stand and the cover will hit the ground. Turns out the center stand moves the entire engine forward, not allowing for enough room to get the cover off. |
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Post by bille on Jun 9, 2014 20:38:54 GMT -5
Do I need two block off plates? One for each side?
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Post by bille on Jun 9, 2014 15:04:15 GMT -5
Also, I'm using the larger belt.
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Post by bille on Jun 9, 2014 14:52:06 GMT -5
I will check that clamp. As for removing the rest of the emissions, I made a vid showing my emission and what I think I need to remove, could you please verify? Also, I'm assuming I need to keep the host coming out of the top of the tank, currently I have it above the tank going to a fuel filter that goes nowhere and just vents.
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Post by bille on Jun 9, 2014 14:23:04 GMT -5
On the first Video it was running much better and not bogging at around 1600 rpms and starts right up. But I still do not like the rear spinning so fast at those low rpms. One way would be to put in 1000 clutch pad springs which would require about 1000 more rpms to engage the bell to turn the rear wheel. Did you order a new INTAKE MANIFOLD to replace the one with the leak? Which belt do you have on the longer one or the Shorter one? The longer one will slow down the rear wheel some. But I still think there is something wrong really. You may want to eliminate all of the emissions on that thing and just have ONE VACUUM line going to the PETCOCK and the ACV Valve on the CARB. I still think there is a vacuum problem someplace. Alleyoop I haven't ordered the new intake yet, but I will soon. Was hoping duct tape would be enough to at last keep working on it. I will take out the emissions next and see if it changes anything. |
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Post by bille on Jun 9, 2014 13:45:00 GMT -5
I gave that a try, here are two videos of my attempts. At the end of the second video it stalled and wouldn't restart.
and
Again, it stalled at the end of vid2 and wouldn't restart (I'm assuming without more idle screw clockwise.)
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